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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



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UNITED STAr^S Of AMEEICA. 



GOING TO PARIS 



HAND-BOOK 

KOR 

18 7 8. 



ALL ROUTES TO IT, 



ALL NEAR EXCURSIONS FROM IT. 



By HENRY MORFORD. 



EDITOR OF THE "SHORT-TRIP GUIDES" TO EUROPE AND AMERICA ; " OVi 
sea;" '"PARIS IN '67;" "SCENERY AND SENSATION HAND-BOOK 
TO PACIFIC ROADS AND CALIFORNIA ; " ETC., ETC. 



NEW YORK 
CHARLES T. DILLINGHAM. /^^*'^cO^^^'^^r'y^5 
BOSTON: iP No.../^'^ O-^. 

LEE & SHEPARD. V\*^''^^ "^ ' \.. 



LONDON : 
W. H. SMITH & SON, and TRUBNER & CO. 

PARIS : 
J, KREMER & CO., 5 Rue Scribe. 



np '-yI 



.," IX 



CONTENTS. 



Page. 

I. Routes to Paris 5 

II. Dover and Calais to Paris 5 

III. Folkestone snd Boulogne to Paris 10 

IV. Newhaven and Dieppe to Paris ^ ... .12 

V. Southampton and Havre to Paris 16 

VI. Southampton and Cherbourg to Paris 20 

VII. Littlehampton and Honfleur to Paris 21 

VIII. Direct by Boulogne to Paris 22 

IX. To Paris from the Continent 22 

X. Brussels to Paris 22 

XI. Cologne to Paris 25 

XII. Baden-Baden and Strasbourg to Paris 28 

XIII. Basle to Paris 32 

XIV. Geneva to Paris 33 

XV. To Paris from America 36 

XVI. At and about the City of Paris 37 

XVII. Changes in the Modern City .39 

XVIII. Guide Books Galore 41 

XIX. What Paris Is, Physically 41 

XX. The Seine, its Bridges, Quais and Islands 42 

XXI. Boats on the Seine , 45 

XXII. The Seine, Washerwomen and Suicides 47 

XXIII. What, Where and Which are the Boulevards . . .49 

XXIV. Some of the Great Avenues 53 

XXV. Paris Railways 5^ 

XXVI. Paris Cabs, Carriages and Omnibuses 60 

XXVII. Postal and Telegraph Services... 64 



ii Gonieuta. 

Page. 

XXVIII. Hotels, Lodging Houses, Restaurants & Cafes, 65, 

XXIX. Parisian and French Moneys 71 

XXX. Places of Amusement • 72 

XXXI. Theatre Francais, and other Theatres 75 

XXXII. Evening Resorts, Not Theatres 78 

XXXIII. Places and Objects to be Seen 81 

XXXIV.' Successions lor Sight-Seeing 88 

XXXV. Days and Hours for Visiting Buildings, &c. . . 90 

XXXVI. Other Successions for Sight Seeing 92 

XXXVII. The Louvre, (Palace) 94 

XXXVIII. Galleries and Works of Art in the Louvre. . 96 

XXXIX. " (Continued).... 100 

XL. The Tuilleries (Burned Palace) and Gardens 104 

XLL Napoleon's Triumphal Arches — Carrousel and de 

I'Etoile 108- 

XLII. Place de la Concorde and Obelisk of Luxor iii 

XLIII. The Champs Elysees nS 

XLIV. Bois de Boulogne, Longchamps, &c...' 115 

XLV. Bois de Boulogne to St. Cloud, Sevres and Ver- 
sailles 118 

XLVI. and XLVII. At Magnificent Versailles 120 

XLVIII. Luxembourg Palace and Gardens . . . . 125, 

XLIX. The Paris Observatory 12S 

L. The Pantheon ; or, Ste. Genevieve 129 

LL The Cathedral of Notre Dame 131 

LII. Palace of Justice, Conciergerie and Ste. Chapelle.134 

LIII. Church of the Madeleine 136 

LIV. The Palais Royal I37 

LV. Champ de Mars and Trocadero 139 

LVI. Ecole Militaire 141^ 

LVII. Hotel des Invalides and Tomb of Napoleon. . . .141 

LVIII. The Halles Centrales ^Great Markets) 143 

LIX. The Bourse (Great Exchange) 144 

LX. Pere la Chaise (Great Cemeterj') 145 

LXI. Hotel Cluny, Palais des Thermes, and Sorbonne.147 
LXII. A Few of the Great Schools 149 



Contents, 



Page. 

LXIII. Place and Column of the Bastille 150 

LXIV. St. Denis, Royal Abbey Church 151 

LXV. A Group of Prominent Churches 153 

LXVI. Remaining Objects of Special Interest 156 

LXVII. The Exposition and Buildings, 1878 159 

LXVIII. Excursions and Departures 161 

LXIX. From Paris to Lyons, Marseilles, &c 162 

LXX. " to Orleans, Bordeaux, &c 163 

LXXI. . " to Chartres, Nantes, &c 164 

LXXII. " to Nevers, &;c , to Vichy 165 

LXXIII. " to St. Rambert,Rivesand Grenoble.165 

LXXIV. " to Mt. Cenis Tunnel, Aix-le-Bains, 

Chambery, &c 166' 

LXXV. " to Beauvais and Gournay 166 

LXXVI. " to Poitiers,Rochelle and Rochefort.167 

LXXVII. " to Corbeil, Malasherbes, &c 167 

LXXVIII, " to Chartres, &c., to Brest 168 

LXXIX. " to Douai, Valenciennes, Lille, &c., 

to Ghent 169 

LXXX. " to Soissons, Rheims, &c., to Sedan 

and Metz 17L 

LXXXL " to Creil, Amiens, Abbeville and 

Calais , . .173 

LXXXIL " to Creil, Abbeville and Boulogne.. 173 

LXXXIIL " to Mantes, Rouen, &c., to Dieppe. 173 

LXXXIV. " to Rouen, Ivetot, &c., to Havre 173 

LXXXV. " to Mantes, Evreux, Caen, Bayeux, 

&c., to Cherbourg 174 

LXXXVr. " to Havre and Honfleur 174 

LXXXVn. " to Boulogne 174 

LXXXVIIL ' to Amiens, Arras, Douai, Valen- 

ciennes, Mons and Brussels. . . 174 
LXXXIX. " to Maubeuge, &c , to Brussels.. . . 174 

XC. " to Compeigne, St. Quentin, Char- 

leroi, Namur, Liege, Aix-la- 
Chapelle, &c., to Brussels. .... .175^ 



IV 



Contents. 



Page„ 
XCI. From Paris to Rheims, Meaux, Eperney, Cha- 
lons-sur-Marne. Nancy, Stras- 
bourg, Carlsruhe, &c., to Baden- 
Baden. J75 
XCII. " to Troyes, Langres, Belfort, Mul- 

house and Basle 175 

XCIII. " to Melun, Fontainebleau, Sens, 

Tonnerre, Dijon, Chalons-sar- 
Seine, Macon, Bourg, Amber- 

ieux, Culoz, &c., to Geneva 175 

XCIV. Bad French for the Uninitiated 176 

XCV. Probable Expenses of " Going to Paris." 187 

XCVI. Facts of Interest for Travelers, 190 



PREFACE. 



The Exposition of 1878 is expected to draw many thousands to 
Paris, of the two English-speaking peoples — British and Amer- 
icans; and they will have offered to them, as instructors and 
assistants, a great number of guide-books and hand-books, in the 
two languages of the . countries to which they belong and the 
-country they visit. The only excuse offered by the Editor of this 
little work, for adding to the number, is his belief, founded upon 
many years of the preparation of Guide-Books, European and 
American, that he can supply one of the most concise, on", of the 
■most comprehensive in a small space, one of the most convauent, 
<ind one of the cheapest of the lohole array. An effort has been 
made, in the present instance, to furnish a light and cheap Hand- 
Book — occupying but little space in the pocket, and costing only 
a tnfle, but complete enough to afford all information as to 
the routes for reaching Paris; for seeing the city to advantage, 
with no other literary aid than a good Map, in covers (easily 
obtainable there), and a few cheap local hand-books (as of the 
collection in the Louvre, etc.) to be found where and when needed; 
and for leaving it, conveniently, on any route likely to be desired. 
The short division, headed "Bad French for the Uninitiated," 
will be found very useful by some, and of no use at all by others; 
and the paper on "Probable Expenses of Going to Paris, " though 
faithfully and intelligently compiled, is necessarily liable to great 
difference in calculations. The descriptions of places started from 
and passed through, in going, will be found well in place by 
many who do not at first see their propriety. Unavoidably, the 
early day of preparation has m.ade any close account of the 
Exposition itself, impossible; and for that, indeed, any visitor 
must Avish to depend upon official catalogues and the local hand- 
books ot the occasion. 

Nf.w Yoek and London, 
April, 1878. 



GOING TO PARIS. 



I. 

ROUTES TO PARIS. 

With the majority of American travelers, and a still 
larger proportion of English, the approach to Paris 
will be made by one of the routes from England 
across the Channel; from Brussels; from Baden-Baden 
by Strasbourg ; from Cologne ; from Basle ; or from 
Geneva. 

II. 

To Paris, from England and the Channel — by Dover 
and Calais. 

Assuming London to be the point of departure, the 
following will be the itinerary. Leave by the London, 
Chatham and Dover Railway, from either Victoria, 
Holborn Viaduct, or Ludgate Hill Station. Past 
Chatham, and the marine establishment at that place, 
giving partial name to the road, - with hasty views of 
vessels in dockyards, &c. Shortly before reaching 
Chatham, Rochester, with a very fine old Castle of the 
early Norman time, and a Cathedral of great age and 
much beauty, rendered especially interesting from 



6 Ooing to Paris. 

Dickens having located there the scene of much of 
his latest work, ' ' Edwin Drood. " Only separated 
from Rochester by the River Medway, and connected 
with it by a bridge, Strood, an old town with not much 
of mark, but a considerable railway traffic. Beyond 
Rochester and Strood, one of the most important 
points in England, is 

Canterbury, with Canterbury Cathedral. The town 
dates from the first settlement of England by the Ro- 
mans, and makes the well-founded boast of Chris- 
tianity having been first introduced into Great Britain 
at it, by St. Augustine. The town lies on the little 
river Stour, and on what was the ' ' Watling Street " 
or old road from London to the Channel. The Ca- 
thedral was erected in the 12th, 13th and 14th cen- 
turies, on the site of the first Christian church built in 
Saxon England, and is regarded as a very noble speci- 
men of mediaeval architecture, though materially mixed 
and varied in styles of construction. It has a central 
and two western towers, and is in the form of a double 
cross. Within, it presents as many attractions of cu- 
riosity as any other church in England, except West- 
minster Abbey. Among these are the place of the 
shrine of Thomas a Becket, with the stone worn hj 
the knees of worshippers ; the spot where he was: 
killed, in 11 71, in the reign of Henry II., by tlis: 
friends of that monarch; the tombs of Henry^ IV;,. 
the Black Prince, and many others of eminence, witii 
the surcoat, shield and some other relics of the Prince 
hanging above ; the old stone chair in which the 
Saxon Kings of Wessex were crowned in the time of 



From England, hy Dover and Calais. 7 

the Heptarchy ; and many other and interesting me- 
mentos. In the cryyt, under the church, is a chapel 
allowed by Queen Elizabeth, for worship, to the Prot- 
estant fugitives from France ; and crypt, cloisters and 
grounds are all worthy of close examination. The 
very old and small Church of St. Martin, not far from 
the Cathedral, is believed to have been the first Chris- 
tian building preached in in Great Britain ; and a 
strange tumulus, or hillock, crowned by a monu- 
ment, in the suburbs, bears the name of "Dane 
John '' and provokes many speculations. After Can- 
terbury, no other place of importance is passed, on 
the line, until reaching 

Dover, the point of embarcation, and celebrated 
in English history for more than a thousand years. 
It stands on and at the foot of the great chalk downs 
of Kent, at the narrowest point of the Channel, 88 
miles from London by railway, only 2 1 miles from 
Cape Gris-nez, on the French coast, and 26)4 miles 
from Calais. It has a magnificent admiralty-pier, built 
between 1848 and 1870, and may be said to supply 
the most important communication between Great 
Britain and the Continent. On the heights behind 
the town stands the very old, large and strong Castle, 
with detached fortifications of great extent. West- 
ward of the town, from the water, rises the celebrated 
Shakspeare Cliff, mentioned in "King Lear" and so 
often quoted. Quite a celebrity is the Lord Warden 
Hotel, at the head of the pier, and the resort of so 
many of the celebrated, the runaway and the notori- 
ous, in their crossings. 



8 Going to Paris. 

Embarcations from Dover for Calais (mail service) 
are made twice daily — day and night ; and in good 
weather the time consumed in the passage is i h. 20 
m. to I h. 40 m. Often the passage is smooth, but 
occasionally rough and unpleasant ; and of late years, 
in addition to the mail-boats, a double-hulled vessel, 
the Castalia, has been employed, to obviate sea-sick- 
less. Disembarcation at 

Calais is made at a very xong pier, 235 m. from 
Paris by rail, from which ''Calais Sands/" so celebrated 
in the time when the battling English and French 
armies were often mustered there, are in full and near 
view. Some of the Old Gates of the town yet remain, 
from the days of the Edwards and Henries, though a 
Castle, and new and extensive forts, have long 
changed its conditions of defence. It has a large fish- 
ing industry, and a considerable export trade of wines, 
brandies, eggs, raw silk, &c. , to England ; and many 
of the curious old buildings of the town will repay an 
examination. Historically, many travelers remember 
the long siege and capture of Calais, by the English 
King Edward HI., in 1347, with the heroism of its 
defenders, the good advice of Sir Walter Manny, and 
the noble humanity of Queen Philippa ; its long con- 
tinuance in possession of the English ; and its final 
surrender to the French under the Due de Guise, dur- 
ing the reign (1558) of Queen Mary, who alleged that 
'Svhen she died, the name of Calais would be found 
engraven on her heart." 

For Paris direct, trains of the Northern of France 
Railway are taken on the pier, (generally with suf!icient 
time allowed for a hasty luncheon, and food or drink 



From Enqland, hy Dover and Calais. 9 

to take into the carriage easily procured and advisable.) 
Most of the route is not specially interesting, though 
well worthy of study, for its local features, by those 
who have not before traversed it. The line, passing 
near the coast, touches the inner edge of Boulogne-sur- 
ilf^r (of which, on next route), affording transit from 
that point, and runs very near to tv/o of the great 
French battle-grounds, both mentioned by Shakspeare 
— Agincourt and Cre9y. The next station of import- 
ance is Abbeville, fortified town on the river Somme and 
Canal de la Somme, by which it has communication 
eastward with Lille and Belgium, and southward with 
Paris (by the Oise). It has some coasting and fishing 
trade, and considerable manufactures — and is the point 
to "lie over" for visits to the battle-fields already named. 
The next important station of stoppage is 

Amiens, also on the Somme, and capital of the de- 
partment of that name. It was the birth place of Peter 
the Hermit ; of Gabrielle d'Estrees, (the beautiful mis- 
tress of Henry IV. ) ; and of the astronomer Delambre; 
and it had the honor of giving rest to Europe for a 
time, in the "Peace of Amiens," signed here on the 
27th March, 1802. It has many buildings of interest, 
is the seat of a bishop's se^, and has a heavy gen- 
eral trade and many inanufactures. After Amiens 
(where the railway from Brussels and other Belgian 
towns intersects), the only remaining points of special 
interest on the route, are Clermont and Creil, which 
latter has a porcelain -factory of some eminence, other 
manufactories, and holds nearly the same place in rail- 
way-supplies as that held in England by Crewe, and 



lo Going to Paris. 

that in America by Altoona. Creil, by St. Denis (view 
of the Abbey Church of St. Denis, burial-place of the 
old French Kings, from the trains), to the Nord Sta- 
tion, Paris. 

III. 

To Paris, from Engla-nd and the Channel, by Folkestone 
and Boulogne. 

Leave London, by the London, Chatham & Dover 
Railway, from either A^ictoria, Ludgate Hill or Hol- 
born Viaduct Stations ; or by the Southeastern Railway, 
from Charing Cross, Cannon St. or London Bridge 
Stations. If by the former, the route identical with that 
to Dover, so far as the latter place, with continuation 
along the coast to Folkestone ; or change at Ashford 
and thence to Folkestone. If by the latter, direct by 
Seven Oaks, Tunbridge (the old '*Tunbridge Wells,'* 
of bathing and mineral-water celebrity, ne^ar) and Ash- 
ford, to 

Folkestone, on the Channel, 5 m. W. S. W. of 
Dover, and materially dividing with that place the ad- 
vantage of supplying a near crossing to the Continent. 
It is almost immediately opposite Boulogne, on the 
French coast, and distant from it some 25 m. Most 
of the town lies at some height ; and a high road leads 
westward, at near the edge of the cliffs, to Sandgate, a 
village and dependency of much beauty. It supplies 
good bathing, has one fine hotel, the ' ' Royal Pavilion, " 
and many attractions as a residence, and boasts of 
having -given birth to Harvey, the discoverer of the 
circulation of the blood. It has good piers, though 
far inferior to those of Dover. 



From England, hy Dover and Calais, ii 

Embarcation for Boulogne is made at varying tidal 
hours ; and the time consumed in the crossing in fine 
weather, is from i h. 30 m. to 2 h., with no noticeable 
difference from the other crossing in the detail of 
roughness, though the average of boats on this route 
is a trifle larger than those between Dover and Calais. 

Disembarcation is made^, entirely within the sheltered 
harbor, at the Quai Bonaparte, of 

Boulogne, called additionally '* Boulogne-sur-Mer," 
-or ''Boulogne on the Sea," to distinguish it from 
another and inland town of the same principal name. 
It had, in earlier years, great celebrity as a Channel 
watering-place, which has of late been materially in- 
jured by a somewhat general tendency on the part of 
English debtors to escape to it. It is still, however^ 
much frequented, in the season, has many good hotels,, 
and an Etahlissement , for concert and social purposes^ 
with music in the grounds on, most summer evenings ;. 
and its fishing interest is extensive and profitable, as at 
no other point on the coast can the operations of that 
service be more favorably studied. Boulogne was the 
old Roman Gesoriacum, and had much old-time celeb- 
rity, materially added to by the birth, there, of Godfrey 
de Bouillon (Godfrey of Boulogne), the valiant crusader 
and Emperor of Jerusalem, memorials of whom and 
whose family still remain in the crypt of the noble old 
Cathedral, well worthy of a visit. It enjoyed the dis- 
tinction, in 1804-5, of being selected by the First 
Napoleon as the spot from which to make his descent 
upon England, and of being partially fortified and 
having important marine works, now decayed, begun 



1 2 Going to Parts. 

to that end. On the high lands immediately behind 
the town was also mustered and for some time trained 
the army intended to subjugate England ; and the 
most interesting relic of that period is the Colonne de la 
Grande Armee, a noble column, then begun and after- 
wards finished by King Louis Philippe, standing on 
the spot of the muster and commanding attention from 
every visitor. The late French Emperor, Napoleon 
III. , made the town the scene of one of his unsuccess- 
ful attempts on the imperial crown, 1840, and went 
thence to Ham. Geographically, Boulogne lies at the 
mouth of the (very small) river Lianne, 139 m. N. N. 
W. of Paris, and 19 m. S. W. of Calais. It has. in 
addition to its marine interests, many good public 
buildings, and quite extensive manufactories, with 
marble quarries in the neighborhood ; while the battle- 
fields of Agincourt and Cregy, already spoken of, can 
be reached from it at no extended rides. 

At Boulogne, for Paris, trains of the Northern of 
France Railway are taken, as shown in the connection 
from Calais ; and the route thence to the capital is 
identical with that traced from Calais. 

IV. 

To Paris, from Efigland and the Channel — by New. 
haven and Dieppe. 
Leave London, by the London, Brighton and South 
Coast Railv/ay, from Victoria or London Bridge Sta- 
tions, on daily tidal service. By Croydon, Red Hill 
(junction with the South Eastern Railway, for Folke- 
stone, &c.), Th?'ee Bridges (junction for Tanbridge 



From Englandy dy Newhaven and Dieppe. 13 

Wells, and for Little Hampton, &c. ), Hayward's Heath, 
and other stations, to Lewes (place of some manufac- 
turing and trading importance, and spot of the defeat 
and imprisonment in Lewes Castle, in 1264, of Henry 
HL by Simon de Montfort and the associated barons). 
(From Lewes, branch rail, eastward to Pevensey, St. 
Leonard's and Hastings, and westward, branch rail to 
Brighton, one of the most popular and pleasant of 
English sea-coast watering-places and thence to Ports- 
mouth and the Isle of Wight). Pursuing route to the 
Channel, within a few miles from Lewes is reached 

Newhaven, a small seaport at the mouth of the 
river Ouse, with a good harbor, a small fort, and 
some fishing and other trade. The little town and 
harbor have been somewhat noted in the history of the 
Channel ; but the most notable event connected with 
it was the arrival there of King Louis Philippe, of 
France, on his escape from Paris in 1848. 

Embarcation is made immediately at the town, on 
steamers somewhat larger than either those of Dover 
or Folkestone, as the tidal accommodations are better 
and the route much longer than from either of the 
other ports just named. Time occupied in crossing, 
in good weather, from 5^ to 6^ h. , much increased in 
the event of strong winds. Disembarcation, on the 
French coast, is made within the sheltered harbor, 
protected by two long crucifix-crowned piers, of 

Dieppe, one of the chief coast-towns of Normandy, 
and one *of the most popular sea-coast resorts of 
France and indeed of the Continent. This town, one 
of the most interesting of its class, for visit and as a 



14 Going to Paris. 

sea bathing resort, lies at the mouth of the Httle river 
Arques, 33 m. N. of Rouen, the old Norman capital. 
It has much interest, in its situation, appearance and 
history, and should not be passed without some delay, 
except under compelling circumstances. To the west, 
or right of the harbor entrance, stands the very old 
Chateau de Dieppe, or Castle, connected with many 
historical events of interest ; and, also at the right of 
the harbor entrance, are the Etablissement, or concert- 
house, and La Plage, connected with the pleasures of 
the bathing season. Bathing fine and bold, and much 
patronized in summer ; and hotels (along La Plage) 
many and of good class. It has a large fishing industry; 
and one of the principal ' ' Oyster Parks " (beds) for the 
supply of the Paris market, is here located. Many of 
the streets are very antique in appearance, and well 
worth examination ; and some of the manufactures, 
especially carving in ivory, are specialties of importance. 
It is divided into two parts, the town proper, on the 
west, and the suburb of Le Pollet, on the east — the two 
connected by a flying bridge, and the great fishing inter- 
est of the town belonging to the latter. The most 
notable church is that of St. Jacques. Historically, 
Dieppe has a stirring record in the annals of France, it 
having been the scene of some of the great conflicts 
between the French and English, in the times of the 
Henries and Edwards, and legend averring that ofl" the 
harbor the celebrated ''Red Rover," de Longueville, 
w^as overcome and captured by the Scottish hero, Sir 
William Wallace, in the 13 th century. At no great 
distance from the town stands the Castle of Arques, now 



From England, by Ne^v haven and Dieppe. 15 

in ruins, of great beauty; and also near lies the battle- 
field of Ivry, where Henry the Fourth of France 
defeated the Leaguers and won the crown denied him. 

At Dieppe, for Paris, are taken the trains of the 
French Western Railway (Chemin de Fer de I'Ouest). 
By this route are passed through some of the very 
loveliest portions of Lower Normandy, with local 
specialties of scenery commanding attention from 
every tourist ; and by no other route can the approach 
to Paris from the Channel be so instructively made. 
The principal stations between Dieppe and Rouen, 
are St. Auhin, Longueville (note the name of the '* Red 
Rover," lately given), Cleres (stop), Monvilk, Malaun- 
qye, and Maromme, after which 

Rouen, already spoken of as the old Norman Capi- 
tal, and one of the most interesting towns on the Con- 
tinent, in itself and historically. The city lies on thi 
right bank of the Seine, 68 m. N. W. of Paris, and 44 
m, E. S. E. of Havre, having rail connection with 
both and with Fecamp (sea-coast watering-place of 
importance). Its location is singularly beautiful ; and 
it preserves many of the most attractive features of an- 
tiquity, joined to manufacturing importance in the 
present. It has fine residences and warehouses along 
the Seine, bridges and other modern features ; but the 
older portions are little changed for centuries. The 
Cathedral, and the Abbey Church of St. Ouen, are no- 
table for fine architecture ; and it has an archbishop's 
palace and official buildings of importance. William 
the Conqueror, first Norman King of England, died 
at Rouen in 1087, in the Monastery of St. Gervais ; 



1 6 Going to Paris. 

Henry V. took it in 141 8, after one of the longest 
sieges on record, in which half the residents died of 
starvation ; and Joan d'Arc, the ' ' Maid of Orleans, " 
was burned here by the English in 1431. In the Place 
de la Pucelle, in the midst of the town, a statue now 
stands on the spot where the burning is alleged to have 
taken place ; and near it yet remains a part of the 
richly-ornamented residence then occupied by the 
English commander, Earl Talbot. Many other an-- 
tiquities remain, deserving of attention, and demand- 
ing local guidance for enumeration and discovery. 

After leaving Rouen, the principal stations are Ver- 
non (branch to Gisors) ; Mantes (branch to Honfleur^ 
on the coast) ; Poissy, Conflans, Maisons, Houilles and 
Columbes, after which St. Lazare Station at Paris. 



To Paris, from England and the Channel — by South- 
ampton and Havre. 

Leave London, by the South Western Railway, from 
Waterloo Bridge Station, at 9 A. M., every Monday, 
Wednesday and Friday. By Clapham Junction, Wim- 
bledon ( Wimbledon Common, near, spot of the English 
rifle and other contests), Woking, New Godalming, Al- 
dcrshot (spot of many encampments and much military 
practice), Farnham, Alton, Alres/ord, and many minor 
stations ; to 

Winchester, important town on the little river Itchen, 
seat of a bishopric, and once surrounded by walls of 



From England, by Southa7npton and Havre. 17 

which only the remains are now traceable. Though 
much modernized, some very fine antiquities remain ; 
and the Cathedral, supposed to have been founded in 
the 2d century, is one of the finest in England. This 
building is heavy without, but the interior is thorough- 
ly admirable. It contains the tomb of King William 
Rufus, slain in the New Forest in 11 00; and in a 
series of carved chests over the choir repose the re- 
mains of many of the Wessex and English-Saxon 
Kings. The altar-piece is the celebrated ''Raising 
of Lazarus,'' by the American, Benjamin West. Win- 
chester has a noble College, founded in 1387, many 
other public buildings, and many charities of emi- 
nence. The West Gate still remains, of the four once 
closing the walls. Historically, Winchester was the 
Caer Givent, an important city of the Ancient Britons ; 
afterwards the Roman Venta Belgarum ; and the capi- 
tal of Wessex, and afterwards of England, through the 
Saxon, Danish and Early Norman dynasties. It was 
a residence of the British sovereigns, down to George 
I. Henry III. was born here, 1207; Henry VIII. 
here entertained the Emperor Charles V., about 1540; 
and Queen Mary of England and King Philip of 
Spain were married in the Cathedral, 1554. 

From Winchester, by Bishopstoke, St. Dmys and 
Northampton to 

Southampton, one of the most important seaports 
of England, occupying a peninsula between the mouths 
of the Test and Itchen rivers, at the head of South- 
ampton Water, an estuary of the Channel — 80 miles 
S. W. of London. It has important and costly docks, 



1 8 Goiag to Pans. 

on the E.J opened in 1842. The West India, Med- 
iterranean, East India and China mails have their 
station here ; and much manufacturing is carried on. 
Part of the old walls, called the Bargate, still remain, 
dividing the main street into tv/o parts ; but there are 
few objects of interest, other than the churches and 
many public institutions. A few miles from South- 
ampton, by -rail, Poris7nouth, great naval port and 
depot, on the Channel and the Solent, opposite the 
Ide of Wight, to which constant steamer communica- 
tion (Arrivals at Southampton are made by the North 
German Lloyd and some others of the American 
steamers ; and the route to Paris, following, may be 
taken direct. ) 

Steamers leave Southampton Docks, on the same 
days (Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays), at 11.45 
P. M. The crossing, 120 miles, by large and fine 
steamers, occupies 7 to 8 h., in good weather, and 
disembarcation is made at 

Havre (or/'Le Havre") called ''the French Liver- 
pool, " a fortified port, and one of the largest in France, 
lying on the north bank of the mouth of the Seine, 
108 m. N. W. of Paris. It is the most important of 
the French seaports (only rivalled by Marseilles, on the 
Mediterranean), has a great variety of important manu- 
factures, and enjoys an immense trade with all portions 
of the world, with steamer communications from most 
great ports (among others, the line of steamers of the 
Conipagnie Generale Transatlantique, with New York). 
It has a citadel, with ramparts and fosses ; magnificent 
extensive docks, and three large basins, for vessels of 



From England, hy Southampton and Havre. 



10 



the largest class. Among its most notable buildings 
-are the Cathedrals of Notre Dame and St. Francois, 
Arsenal, Exchange, &c. Most important public place, 
the Place d'Armes. Havre was founded by Louis XII. 
in 1509 ; held for a time by the English, in 1562, and 
bombarded by them in 1678 and 1759. On the 
opposite side of the Seine mouth, 8 m. S. E., is Hon- 
fleur, another seaport of some eminence, much more 
celebrated in old historic days than at present ; and a 
few miles S. W. from Honfleur, near Port I'Eveque, 
on the Channel, and at the mouth of the Touques, are 
Trouville, now one of the most celebrated and popular 
of the French sea-coast resorts, and its rival with some 
differing features, Deauville. At a few miles N. E. from 
Havre is Fecamp^ also a sea-coast resort of some im- 
portance, though far inferior in reputation to Trouville. 
Fifteen miles N. N. E. from Havre is another sea-coast 
resort of some prominence, Etretat, famous for its 
oysters ; and still another, very near, St. Adresse, some- 
what minor, but with much civic patronage. Within 
the lips of the Seine mouth, so to speak, is Harfleur, 
a place now of small importance, but celebrated as a 
landing-place in historic and warlike days. 

At Havre, for Paris, trains of Chemin de Fer de 
rOuest are taken, by Boiizeville, Iveiof, &c. (also branch 
from Fecamp) to llouen, whence to Paris, as by route 
from Dieppe. (See IV. ) 



20 Going to Paris. 

VI. 

To Paris, from England and the Channel— hy Southampton 
and Cherbourg. 

At Southampton, whether from London as by last 
route, or by other arrival, from other part of England 
or from America, passage to France may be taken on 
Mondays and Thursdays at 1 1 o'clock, by the steamers 
of the South Western Railway Company, with transit 
somewhat longer than by some of the earlier-named 
routes, to 

Cherbourg, fortified seaport of France, of the first 
class, lying between Capes La Hogue on the W. and 
Levi on the E., nearly opposite the Isle of Wight. It 
has a magnificent basin, opened in 1858, a fine road- 
stead, and heavy fortifications. The whole harbor 
extends in a crescent shape for some 24 m,, and 400 
ships may ride safely in it at once. Cherbourg, one of 
the prides of the French, has a maratime prefecture, a 
commercial college, hospital, theatre, &c. ,and a colossal 
equestrian statue of Napoleon I., in bronze, inaugur- 
ated in 1848. It has considerable commerce, and 
trade in navy supplies and other goods. 

At Cherbourg are taken trains of the Chemin de Fer 
de rOuest, by Valognes, Lison, Bayeux (celebrated for 
its Cathedral, and the "Bayeux tapestry" still pre- 
served there, said to have been the work of Queen 
Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror — well worthy 
of pause to see), — Caen (with many old and other 
edifices of note, among others the church of St. 
Etienne^ containing the tombs of William the Con- 



From England, by Soufhawpfon and Cherhourg. 21 

queror and Queen Matilda, the Hotel de Ville, Palace 
of Justice, &c. ; and with very extensive and varied 
manufactures, and a Canal connecting with the Chan- 
nel : previous to 1 793, seat of University, founded by 
Henry VI. of England ; taken by the English in 1346, 
and again in 1417, held until 1450), Lmeux, Bernav, 
Serquigny and Evreux (capital of the department of 
the Eure, with Cathedral, church of St. Taurin, and 
many other interesting buildings, and considerable 
manufactures), and minor stations, to Mantes (junc- 
tion), whence to St. Lazare Station at Paris as by route 
from Dieppe. 

vn. 

To Paris, from England and the Channel — by Little- 
hampton and Honflenr. 

From London by the London, Brighton and South 
Coast Railway, (optional connection by the Midland 
Sussex Railway, from Three Bridges, by Horsham), to 
Littlehampion, every Wednesday and Saturday, from 
Victoria and London Bridge Stations. Littlehampton 
lies at the mouth of the Avon, on the Channel, 11 m, 
S. E. of Chichester; has a small harbor, and some 
celebrity as a place for sea-bathing. . 

From Littlehampton, same days, steamers to 
Honfleur, old sea-port town of France, with historxal 
celebrity, 8 m. S. E. of Havre (see Southampton and 
Havre route). Lies at the mouth of the Seine, here 
7 m. wide, with daily steam communication with 
Havre. Has a port with two piers and three basins. 
Principal church, St. Catharine. Has very fine' walks 



2 2 Going to Paris. 

along the wooded heights of Le Cote de Grace, witb 
superb views over the channel, river, Havre, &c» 
From Honfleur to Paris, by trains of the Chemin de 
Fer de I'Ouest, from Flavre. i^See V, ) 

VIII. 

To Paris, front England attd the Channel — direcl by 
Boulogne. 
From London Docks, daily, by steamer on Channel^ 
direct to Boulogne, affording a fiae sail in good 
weather, a part of the passage generally made in 
the night, and very fair accommodations supplied. 
During the daylight portion of the voyage, either the 
coast of France, on approach, or that of England, with 
the run down-- the Thames, by the Nore and past the 
North Foreland, affords fine opportunity for study. 
For Boulogne, and thence to Paris, see Boulogne 
and Folkestone route, (HI.) 

IX. 

[Five Continental towns have been already men- 
tioned, from one of which the American or English 
traveller, not proceeding direct from England by the 
Channel, will be likeliest to make approach to Paris. 
The five follow, in succession — from Brussels, from 
Cologne, from Baden-Baden, from Basle, and from 

Geneva. 1 

X. 

To Paris, from Holland, Belgium or Germany — by 

Brussels. 

By whatever route (railway from Antwerp probable) 

to 



From HoJlaml, Etc., hy Brussels'. 2$ 

Brussels, Capital of Belgium, and one of the best- 
shaded and most delightful of continental cities, with 
many features of Paris, and many charms peculiar to 
itself. It lies on the small river Senne, and has a 
climate temperate, moist and variable. It consists of 
an Upper or New Town, in which lie the Royal Palace, 
Royal Park, government offices, magnificent new 
Exchange, &c. In the Place Royale, here, is a much- 
admired Statue of Godfrey de Bouillon, by_ Simonis. 
The principal promenades are the Boulevard du Regent 
and the Boulevard de Waterloo. Very near the Royal 
Palace and Park are the Waux Hall Concert Gardens ; 
^^e Ducal Palace (of Brabant) with very fine collection 
of modern pictures ; and Royal Museum, with many 
old pictures. Not inferior in attraction, are the Cathe- 
dral Church of St. Gudule, grand in architecture, with 
stained windows, handsome side chapels, and carved 
oaken pulpit of great beauty ; old Parliament House, 
on the Grand Place, with many memorials of the 
Empress Maria Theresa, the Duke of Alva, and others, 
and group of the Counts Egmont and Horn in front, 
where they were executed ; Hotel de Ville, also on the 
Grand Place, with fine front, elaborate tower, and old 
rooms and many curiosities within ; old house where 
the Duchess of Richmond gave her celebrated Ball 
before Waterloo ; some of the carpet and lace manu- 
factories, &c. In the suburbs are the Boi's du Cambre, 
a new park of great beauty, formed from the old Forest 
of Soignes; and near it the Battle-field of Waterloo 
(reached every day by the " English Coaches " from the 
Place Royale), with the Grand Mound, crowned bv 



24 Going to Paris. 

the Belgian Lion; the old Chateau of Hougomont, the 
Farm-house of La Haye Sainte, and the Sunken Road 
to Wavres — spots at which Napoleon's last battle was 
really decided. Also may be visited, in another 
direction, Laeken, handsome rural residence of the 
King of the Belgians. 

Leave Brussels by the Northern Railway of France 
and Belgian connections, by 

Mons (fortified town of Belgium, capital of Hain- 
ault, on the small river Trouilie, at the head of the 
Conde Canal to the Scheldt— with the Gothic church 
of St. Waudru, of the 15th century, and the old Castle 
of Mons, and with many coal mines in the vicinity, 
at Jemappes, Warquignies, &c. ; ; hy Qtievy, Feignies, 
and Mauheuge (fortified French town on the Sambre, 
with national manufactory of fire-arms and iron and 
steel goods), to Paris. Or, 

Leave Brussels, by Mons (as in route immediately 
preceding). From Mons, by 

Valenciennes^ a French town of importance, on the 
Scheldt ; with a citadel on an island in the river ; a 
Town Hall with a very high and fine belfry ; a mu- 
seum, several churches, and a variety of manufactures, 
among v\^hich that of the celebrated "Valenciennes 
lace " is prominent. From Valenciennes, by 

Douai, a fortified town of France, chiefly remarkable 
for having given name to the '' Douay (Catholic) 
Bible" — for its striking situation — for its Hotel de 
Ville, with remarkable five-towered belfry — and for 
some of its picturesque old public and private build- 
ings. From Douai, by 



From Germany, dy Coloynp. 25 

Arras, a city o[ great age, on the Scarpe, fortified 
by Vauban, and very celebrated in manufactures — of 
which it gave name to one description of hangings : 
known as "arras."' It has a fine military school; 
a very picturesque Hotel de Ville ; and many old 
buildings surrounding the Grand Place and Place de 
la Hotel de Ville. From Arras, by Amiens (see route 
from Calais, H. ,) to Paris. 

XI. 

To Paris, from Geniiany, or North Germany — by 

Cologne. 

By whatever route (through Holland, Belgium or 
Germany), to 

Cologne, on the Rhine, in Rhenish Prussia, and 
the commencement of the R.hine-tour to those going 
up that river. It is very old (said to have been 
founded by Agrippina, daughter of the Roman Em- 
peror Germanicus), very picturesque, and yet more 
celebrated for "Cologne Water" than all its other 
features Its most notable building is the Cathedral^ 
one of the most stupendous specimens of Gothic 
architecture on the globe, having been some six hun- 
dred years in building without beiug nearly finished, 
and to have, when completed, two towers of the im- 
mense height of 500 feet. Within, it is wondrously 
magnificent, with the ''Chapel of the Three- Kings of 
Cologne" behind the high altar, and untold wealth 
lavished on their relics and other and similar objects. 
The Church of St. Ursula contains the Bones of the 
Eleven Thousand Virgins, and is literally full of 



26 Going to Pans. 

human remains — interesting while ghastly. Other 
churches are that of St. Peter, with Rubens' master- 
piece of the ''Crucifixion/' that of St. Mary, said to 
be twelve hundred years old, that of St. Pantaleon, 
&c. Many of the streets of Cologne are worthy of a 
visit, for dingy antiquity, and for the number of ' ' Jean 
Maria Farinas" to be discovered. Across the Rhine 
and the great bridge lies the suburb of Deutz ; and the 
river, with its boats, aifords a study of great interest, 
even to those who do not ascend it either by boat or 
rail, as all should do who can afford even one or two 
days for that purpose. 

Leave Cologne (by) rail, by 

Aix-la-Chapelle (Aachen German), a fine old 

town of Rhenish Prussia, old home of Charlemagne 
and other Emperors. Has a Cathedral, one of the oldest 
in Europe, containing the Tomb of Charlemagne and 
many relics. At the Hotel de Ville, also very old, is 
the Great Hall, with splendid modern pictures, in 
which all the early Emperors were crowned ; Charle- 
magne's stair-case, bronze statue-fountain of that 
ruler in front, and many other objects of interest. 
Has Warm Springs and Baths of celebrity, and is a 
popular resort. At two miles distance, the Poullinor 
Waldchen, with Roman and Charlemagnian remains 
of interest. From Aix-la-Chapelle, by Verviers (place 
of stoppage and exam.ination of luggage by the cus- 
toms authorities), to 

Liege, on the Meuse, with very extensive ordnance- 
foundries and fire-arms manufactories ; the Cathedral 
of St. Paul, with many fine pictures, brass-work and 



From Germany, hy Cologne. I'j 

wood-carving, and the most elaborate carved oaken 
pulpit in Europe ; Church of St. Jacques, with rich 
stained glass windows, and a series of powerful bas- 
reliefs of the Crucifixion ; old Palace of the Prince- 
Bishops of Liege, very interesting in architecture and 
scene of a part of Scott's novel of ' ' Quentin Durward ;" 
fine modern statue of Charlemagne, on the river bank, 
&c. From Liege, by Huy, to 

Namur, a strongly fortified town of Belgium, at the 
confluence of the rivers Sambreand Meuse, 36 m. S. E. 
of Brussels, with a railway to that city. Its Cathedral 
is one of the finest in Belgium ; among its other 
churches are Notre Dame and St. Loup ; its fortress is 
situated on a rock commanding the junction of the 
two rivers ; it has a town hall, and public library, &c. 
Namur, which under the French dominion of Napo- 
leon's time was capital of the Department of the 
Sambre and Meuse, has held an important part in old 
history, having been taken by the French in 1692, by 
the English and Dutch in 1695, ^^^ again by the 
French in 1701 and 1746. The surrounding province, 
of the same name, is rich in mines of iron, lead, copper 
and coal ; and the manufactures of the city are exten- 
sive, in iron and all the metals, glass, leather, &c. 

From Namur, by Tamines2,wdi Chaielineau, to Charleroi 
(fortified town of Belgium, connected with Brussels 
by rail, and by canal, and with extensive coal mines, 
iron foundries, and heavy m.anufactures) ; Erqtiilmes, 
Maubeuge, Haumont, Atdnoye (buffet), Si. Quentin, Terg- 
nier, Compiegne (spot of one of the most distinguished 
of the French race courses, and of a hunt of eminence), 



2$ Going to Fans. 

and Crazi (railway supply-depot, named in routes from 
Calais and Boulogne, II. and III.,) to Paris. 

XII. 

Ta Pans, from Gennany—hy Baden-Baden and Slras- 
bourg. 

By whatever route (through Holland, Belgium or 
any part of Germany) to 

Baden-Baden, formerly chief and most beautiful of 
the gambling, lounging, and quasi-medicinal resorts 
of Europe. It is charmingly located in a valley at the 
foot of and partially surrounded by the hills of the 
Black Forest ; and every appliance that art and taste 
could suggest has been added to make it attractive. 
Its first attraction, of course, is the Kursaal (Conversa- 
tion-House), a noble structure, with splendid prom- 
enade-grounds in front, and the rooms furnished and 
decorated with regal luxury — where the gambling-tables 
^ere ever filled from early morning to the closing hour 
at II P. M. Next, the Cours de Bade, or race-course, 
four or five miles away westward — famous for its green 
turf track, the gatherings of notables and heavy betting 
which take place there every year, in September, while 
the ride to it supplies charming scenery; and the Black 
^Forest, the dark hills and sombre woods (mostly firs) 
of which surround Baden on three sides, with splendid 
dusky drives through them, and the two castles, the 
All Schloss and Nieu Schloss, which crown eminences 
in' the vicinity, and not only a'fford a very favorable 
impression of the old knightly robber-holds of Germany, 
but show subterranean passages , between the two of 



irom Germany^ hy Baden-Baden. 29 

great length, and some of the instruments of torture 
and death once said to have been employed by the 
dreaded Vehmgericht, or "Secret Tribunal of Ger- 
many." The Nieu Schloss is the residence of the 
Grand Dukes of Baden ; the Alt was that ot their an- 
cestors. The ruins of the Alt Schlos6 are very fine ; 
the rides through the forest to them are notably hand- 
some and memorable ; and charming views are caught 
from the heights (especially near the Alt Schloss) over 
the distant Rhine and low country — with even finer 
(including the spire of Strasbourg Cathedral) from the 
top of the immense pile. 

There are some mteresting excursions from Baden- 
Baden, to the Yburg, New Eberstein, etc. (castles). 

From Baden-Baden, by Carlsruhe ("Charles' Rest," 
capital of the Duchy of Baden, and seat of the Grand 
Duke, with many charms of scenery, and fine buildings, 
among others the Grand Ducal Palace, Council House, 
&c. , splendid public gardens for promenade, academies 
of art and literary institutions, and many manufactures), 
and Kehl^ on the Rhine (one of the German frontier- 
posts of importance), to 

Strasbourg, formerly one of the most important 
cities of France, which has held it for 200 years — 
though it and the province (Alsace) were formerly 
German. Surrendered to the German besiegers on the 
28th of September, 1870, by General Uhrich, after a 
long siege and determined defence, in which the city 
suffered severely, the fortifications were partially de- 
molished, and the garrison and residents reduced to 
the verge of starvation. Became, with the province, 



30 Going to Paris, 

German territor)', by the treaty of February, 1871, First 
among its curiosities is the Cathedral, or Munster, with 
the tallest spire in the world (said to be 475 ^^^^ above 
the ground), the steeple of such delicate tracery that it 
seems to be lace-work, and the immense building, the 
very body of which is higher than the other steeples of 
the city, a wilderness of fine sculpture, statues, bas- 
reliefs, rich Gothic taste and interminable labor. It is 
said to have been commenced in 1277 and finished in 
160I. Within, the massiveness and height of its 
columns and arches are well matched by the splendor 
of its organ, pulpit and side-chapels ; while its great 
Astronomical Clock is well known as one ot the world's 
wonders ; and at 12 noon, every day, the Cathedral is 
visited by hundreds to see the mechanical cock, which 
surmounts it, clap his wings, and hear him crow — and 
to see the Twelve Apostles make their circuit around 
the figure of the Saviour. Next to the Cathedral, in 
interest, is the Church of St. Thomas, very old, contain- 
ing the sarcophagus of Bishop Adeloque, died in 836; 
the splendid tomb of Marshal Saxe — one of the finest 
in Europe; and the embalmed bodies, in glass-covered 
coffins, of Count Nassau-Salberg and his daughter, of 
the sixteenth century ; besides many other antiquities 
and curiosities. Strasbourg contains many of the finest 
Old Houses in Europe (one, near the Cathedral, alleged 
to be 800 years old); has a Public Library, with a noble 
statue of Guttenberg in front ; and thousands of Storks 
(protected totem of the city) nesting upon the tops of 
the chimneys; besides making the {2,vixoyx% pates des fois- 
gfas or goose-liver pies. 



From Germany, hy Baden-Baden. 31 

From Strasbourg, by Saverne, Sarrchourg and Lu-ne- 
ville, to 

Nan'cy, on the Meurthe, old capital and residence of 
the Dukes of Lorraine ; a fine statue of one of whom 
stands in the Place Royale. Its old citadel is interest- 
ing ; and it has many historical reminiscences of im- 
portance — among theni, that of Charles the Bold, the 
great Duke of Burgundy, having been killed while be- 
sieging it in 1475. It has also a new importance from 
its connection with the late Franco-Prussian war, in 
which its siege bore a prominent part — as well as for its 
extensive and celebrated embroideries and other manu- 
factures. From Nancy, by Toul, Commerc\>, Vifrv-h- 
Fr.mcois, and Bar-h-Duc to Chalons-sur-Marne, on the 
river of the latter name ; with a magnificent Cathedral, 
dating back to the 1 2th century ; the Church of Notre 
Dame, still older; and much of interest in other build- 
ings and situation. The late Emperor Napoleon III. 
had his camp of instruction for the army, near Cha- 
lons, at Mourmelon, every autumn ; and the camp re- 
mains, beyond the empire. From Chalons to Eper^iay, 
in the middle of the champagne country, and celebrated 
for its wondrous stores of wine and its manufacture in 
the neighborhood ; but with little other interest. 

From Epernay the route may be pursued by Chateau- 
Thierry and Meatix, direct to Paris; or the branch road 
may be taken to Rheims, another great wine-centre 
and depot, with, additionally, a very fine old Cathedral, 
Church of St. Remi, and Gate of Mars, now closed for 
300 years. Its history dates back to the commence- 
ment of the Christian era; and up to 1830, nearly all 



32 Going to Paris. 

the French monarchs were consecrated in the Cathe- 
dral — in many regards the Westminster Abbey of 
France. It was here that Charles VII. was crowned 
by Joan d'Arc, after her successes. From Rheims 
direct to Paris or return route by Epernay. 

XIII. 

To Paris, from Switzerland or So. Germany — hy Basle. 

By whatever route (through Switzerland, or crossing 
from Southern and Eastern Germany) to 

Basle (Bale), on the Rhine, important city of west- 
ern Switzerland, with railway connections in all direc- 
tions. It is divided by the Rhine into Great and Little 
Basle, by a bridge of much oddity, one side being of 
stone and the other of wood. The most important 
buildmg is the Cathedral, built in loio and restored 
in 1 195, with towers finished about 1500. It has many 
old sculptures ; and on the front are represented the 
Emperor Henry and Empress Helena, with Virgin and 
Child, St. George and the Dragon, etc. It has also 
some historical monuments within, and some curiosi- 
ties in the Council Hall, connected. The cloisters 
extend to the Pfalz, a terrace behind the cathedral (or 
Munster), whence the Black Forest of Germany is in 
full view. The rope-and-current ferries over the Rhine 
are among the curiosities of the city, and supply an 
odd sensation. From Basle, over the great plain of the 
Rhine, within sight of the Black Forest, to Mulhouse, 
on the Rhine and Rhone Canal — with large manufac- 
tures and many imposing modern edifices, but no an- 



From 8ioitzerlancl, hy Geneva, 33 

tiquities of consequence — by several minor stations, to 
Belfort, old frontier town of France, ^^?ith very strong 
lortifications erected by Vauban, where the railway 
branches on the left to Besan9on and Lyons, and on 
the right to Strasbourg. After Belfort, passing many 
small towns and stations of secondary importance, 
among them Langres and Bar-sur-Aube, the next point 
of interest to the tourist is Troyes, the old capital of 
Champagne, on the Seine, with an antiquity reaching 
back to the Romans ; the very fine old Cathedral of 
St. Pierre; the fine churches of St. John, St. Pantaleon, 
St. Urbaine and St. Madeleine ; the Hotel de Ville, of 
the 17th century, with a splendid hall, many notable 
statues, etc.; the museum, etc. It was here that the 
treaty was concluded, in 1420, conferring the succes- 
sion to the crown of France on Henry V. of England, 
after the battle of Agincourt and following victories. 
From Troyes, by Nangis, etc., direct to Paris. 

XIV. 

To Paris, /ro?n Switzerland (or Germany, or Italy) by 
Geneva. 

By whatever route (through Germany and Switzer- 
land, or on the way northward from Italy by the Great 
St. Bernard or Simplon passes, or the Mont Cenis 
Tunnel), to 

Geneva, dividing with Zurich the claim of being 
the "first city of Switzerland."' It lies at the extreme 
southwestern point of the Lake of Geneva ("Lake 
Leman ") on both sides of the lake-foot, and of the 



34 Going to Paris. 

Rhone river, here emptying into it. It has unequalled 
views of the Jura range, on the north side of the lake, 
of the lake itself, and of the, Alps southward, Mont 
Blanc and other giants of the range visible in fine 
weather. Geneva is very old, had important connec- 
tion with the wars of Savoy, and with John Calvin, 
who preached here ; and it is the head-quarters (di- 
viding with Lock and other places up the lake) for 
the manufacture of the celebrated Swiss watches, as 
well as for musical-boxes and other fabrications. The 
most interesting building is the noble Gothic Cathe- 
dral, built about 1050, containing the tombs of Duke 
Henry de Rohan and the Count d'Aubigny, Protestant 
leaders, of Jean de Brognier, President of the Council 
of Constance, and other celebrities, — and the canopy 
of the pulpit once filled by Calvin. It has presbyters' 
stalls, very fine, stained glass, and a remarkable re- 
verberation of the voice. Of other buildings, the 
most notable are the Hotel de Ville and Arsenal (the 
latter with fine collection of arms) ; the MusSe Roth, 
with pictures and sculpture; the Musee Academique ; 
Rousseau's house, near the last mentioned, &c. 
Notable are the beautiful Bridges — the ' Pont des 
Bergeres," and "Pont du Mont Blanc," spanning 
the river at the centre of the city, from the latter 
shooting out the *'Ile de J. J. Rousseau," into the 
lake. On the south side of the lake, near the prin- 
cipal hotels along the water-front, is the '' Jardin An- 
glais/' (English Garden), a delightful promenade and 
summer-evening resort. Many of the old and narrow 
streets in Geneva are worth a visit, for scenery and 



From Switzerland J hy Geneva. 35 

observation of the people, their manufactures, &c. 
Among the most delightful excursions from Geneva is 
that by steamer on the lake, by many shore-towns, 
among the rest Ouchy (with Lausanne at a little dis- 
tance), to Veylaux-Chiilon, where Byron had his resi- 
dence at the Hotel Byron, — and to the Castle of 
Chillon, imxmortalized by Byron in his poem of the 
'' Prisoner of Chillon," and with interesting reminders 
of that poem, in Bonnivard's Prison, &c., though now 
a military storehouse of the republic. [From Chillon, 
for those who have not before made any or many Al- 
pine tours, the route by boat may be pursued to Ville- 
neuve, with excursion by rail to Mariigny^ nearly at the 
foot of Mont Blanc, and thence to Chamounix and 
the great mountain. ] 

For Paris, from Geneva, along the Jura range, by 
Bellegarde (line between Switzerland and France), 
down the Valley of the Rhone, over pokerish bridges 
above the river foaming below, and through tunnels of 
miles long (the Tunnel de Credo and the Valserine 
Viaduct being among the most notable features of a 
line, of railway engineering not often equalled), amid 
scenery of the first variety and grandeur, by Culoz, 
(point of intersection of the line for St. Michel and 
the MontCenis route to Italy); hy Amberieux (point of 
intersection of the rail from Geneva to Lyons) ; by 
Bourg (point of intersection of the line from Stras- 
bourg to Lyons ^ — with a fine old Church of Notre 
Dame de Bourg, a handsome promenade, and the 
celebrated old Church of Brou near) ; to 



36 (jromg to I'aris. 

Macon, on the river Saone, famous for its wines, 
and well worthy of a brief pause— to see its little 
''Champs Elysees," where the people amuse them- 
selves in the evening, a la Paris ; its singular roman- 
esque Cathedral of St. Vincent ; its odd old streets, 
fountain and market; its odder people, handsome 
modern church, river with boats running down to 
Lyons, etc. From Macon, by Chalons-sur- Saone, to 

Dijon, the old capital of the Dukedom of Bur- 
gundy, and ducal residence until the death of Charles 
the Bold. The old Palace, now the Hotel de Ville, has 
much interest ; and in the museum attached will be 
found the monuments of Philip the Hardy, John the 
Fearless, his wife Margaret, and others. Besides these, 
there are worth noting the Cathedral of St. Benigne, 
arid the churches of Notre Dame and St. Michael, the 
Chateau-fort, and some of the finest renaissance archi- 
tecture in Europe, scattered throughout the city. 
From Dijon by Jonnerre, Joigny, Seits, Montereau (junc- 
tion of the Seine and the Yonne, with the celebrated 
Bridge of Montereau, where John the Fearless, Duke 
of Burgundy, was assassinated by orders of the Dau- 
phin, in 1419), Fontainebleau and 3Ielun, to Paris. 

XV. 

To Paris, from America, — by European Steamer Lines. 

Passage to France direct is afforded ( i ) by the steam- 
ers of the Compagnie Generale Transatlantique, landing 
at Havre (see V. , thence) ; (2) by the steamers of the 
Hamburg-American Company, landing at Cherbourg 
(see VI., thence) on their way to. Hamburg; and it is 



Introductory Reflections. 37 

expected that the steamers of the North German Lloyd 
Line will, during the season of 1878, make stops at 
some one of the French ports, probably Cherbourg or 
Havre. In addition, both the National and Anchor 
Lines to London land passengers at Southampion 
(whence, for transit by Havre, see V.). 

From California and the Pacific Coast, tickets will be 
put on sale, at all Pacific ports, to Paris by the Isthmus 
of Panama. These tickets will be issued by the Pacific 
Mail Steamship Company, in connection with the 
Compagnie Generale Transatlantique (named above) ; 
they will be available both for the single trip and the 
Excursion (good for six months), and will be sold at 
very reasonable rates, in furtherance of the laudable 
desire to have the Pacific Coast well represented at the 
Exposition, in attendance as well as productions. 

XVI. 
AT AND ABOUT THE CITY OF PARIS. 



Some Introductory Reflections. 

Undoubtedly Paris is the most interesting city on 
the globe, with perhaps the exception of London, and 
with a certain proportion of instructed travelers disposed 
to give their voices in favor of Rome. To English- 
speaking travelers (for whom this little work is of 
course primarily designed), London has the advantage 
of being filled with people speaking the same vernacu- 
lar as themselves, and bearing signs and other direc- 
tions principally in the same language — so that any 



^8 Going to Paris, 

thing and every thing can be more readily understood 
than in any one of the Continental cities. To some 
extent, too, the antiquities of London appeal to the 
sympathies of the English-speaking peoples, who claim 
more or less connection with them, and demand a 
certain share in whatever glory may surround them» 
But the gradual admixture of peoples, and conse- 
quently of languages, has every year more and more 
removed the difficulty of understanding and being un- 
derstood, in Paris, where now scarcely a hotel or com- 
mercial house of any eminence fails to have some one, 
or more, familiar with the English tongue ; while the 
increase of education of the last half-century has mate- 
rially added to the proportion of those capable of 
speaking and understanding French, at least to the 
extent necessary for the ordinary requirements of 
travel. And, even if London holds more objects than 
Paris, likely to appeal to the pride of the Englishman 
or the American, it is the undoubted fact that Paris 
contains more than any other city in the world, satis- 
fying his curiosity while not so far removed from his 
sympathy as to be difficult of understanding. Again, 
and of no less consequence, Paris is to be seen, com- 
monly, under a much brighter sky than London, lift- 
ing the spirits instead of depressing them, and every 
object being beautified instead of obscured ; and even, 
if the difference of language to some extent draws a 
line between the people and many who visit them 
there is a vivacity about the Parisians — an action in- 
dicative of their being thoroughly alive and enjoyant — 
likely to bring out the same quality in the minds of 



Changes in the Moder7i City. 39 

their visitors and to make happiness even in the midst 
of personal loneHness. Taken all in all, and without 
further enlarging upon the point of comparison, the 
fact remains that Paris is the pleasantest cily in the world, 
to visit, and the one within which more enjoyment may be 
had within a given numher of days, than any other on the 
globe. So much understood, it is no wonder that 
''going to Paris" becomes a pleasant thought to those 
who have never before enjoyed the experience, — and 
that a return there, and a going over of many or all 
the objects of interest once explored, is contemplated 
with inevitable delight When to this is added the ex- 
istence, for any special year, of an International Expo- 
sition, with its certainty of bringing together the most 
attractive objects from all countries on earth, and a 
representation of nearly all the peoples thereof — then 
the amount of charm lying in such a visit may well be 
conceived, even by those who have had no previous 
'experience by which to measure it. 

XVII. 
Changes in the Modern City. 
It is scarcely necessary to say that the changes at and 
about Paris, during the past dozen years, and caused 
by the Franco-Prussian war, have been many and 
important. Many objects of art have been destroyed ; 
others damaged ; still others carried away. Architect- 
urally, the loss was at first very severe, in the destruction 
of the Palace of the Tuilleries, the Hotel de Ville, the 
Palace of the Legion of Honor, some part of the 
Louvre, a portion of the Palais Royal (since materially 



40 Going to Paris. 

repaired), the Porte St. Martin and some of the other 
leading theatres, the Column in the Place Venidome 
(since, replaced), and the mutilation of many of the 
statues, fountains and other features of the Place de la 
Concorde and other favorite resorts of the traveler. The 
damage was even more pronounced, in the suburbs, 
in the injury to the Bois de Boulogne, the forest of 
Vincennes, and other demesnes ; the destruction of St, 
Cloud and partially of Sevres; and the comparative 
desolation of many of the charming semi-rural quarters 
and villages. 

•'')Jti spite of all this, however, and the withdrawal of 
those attractive features connected with an Imperial 
Court, Paris has recuperated, and returned to its 
position of one of the leading attractions of Europe, to 
be visited by all or nearly all who visit the Old World 
from the New, and by thousand upon thousand of 
those who do not need to cross the ocean to enjoy its 
sights and mingle in its festivities. The previous 
changes, so many of them made by Baron Haussman, 
in the interests of art, beauty and convenience, will 
still, many of them, strike the very old habitue ; but 
the sensations so excited will in most cases be those of 
pleasure, as, whatever the cost involved in the alter- 
ations made under the direction of the Emperor, they 
were nearly always dictated by good taste and a fine 
appreciation of the future needs of the "fair city." 
And however names of streets and squares may be 
changed, in reprobation of the dynasty so lately fallen, 
it is pleasant to know that the costly objects of beauty 
will remain to city and nation. 



Wliat Far is Is. 41 

XVIII. 

Guide Books Galore. 

More guide-books, works of description, and would- 
be aids to the traveler, have been written about Paris 
than any other city on the globe — more, even, than 
about London, which is saying much. Most of them 
confuse the hurried reader by attempting too much ; 
nearly all of them bewilder the hurried traveler, by 
supposing that he has four times the length of days or 
hours really at his disposal, and setting him at the im- 
practicable. This error will not be reached in the 
present instance ; all that will be attempted will be 
merely to indicate, in the briefest manner, most of the 
most notable of the notable things of the "world's 
capital" (as Frenchmen and Franco-maniacs delight 
to call it), and some order of time and mode for 
seeing them to the best advantage, with a brief histor- 
ical resume of what Paris has been in the earlier days 
and how she has become the Paris of the present, 

XIX. 
What Paris Is, Physically. 
The original name of Paris, given by the Romans, 
was ''Lutetia," afterwards changed to "Parish " by the 
Romanized Gauls, and eventually to '* Paris," in that 
habit of shortening names while retaining their import, 
which seems to be universal and to run through all 
ages. The city lies, at an average of 193 feet above 
the sea, in latitude 48° 50' 13" N., and longitude 2j> 
29' c"^'E. from Greenwich. It occupies both banks"of 



4S Gomg to Faris* 

the River Seine, with two islands, the He de la Cite 
and the He St. Louis, occupying the middle of the 
river at about the centre of the city. It has a mean 
temperature of 51^ 3 — the winter temperature being 
37^ 8, and summer 64^ 5 ; with a mean rainfall of 25 
inches, an average number of rainy days, per year, 105, 
and the number on which snow falls in some light 
degree, 12. The Commune or Municipality of Paris 
extends on both sides of the Seine, over an area of 
19,278 acres; and the interior circumference of the 
fortifications surrounding it, comprising the two 
breadths of the Seine thus crossed, is 2 1 miles in 
length. ( It is divided into 20 arrondisemenh, each 
divided into quarters. This space comprises two dis- 
tinct portions — ist, that lying within the old city wall, 
erected for the octroi^ or customs (paid on all goods or 
products brought into the city for sale) ; and 2d, that 
lying between the old walls and the line of the new 
fortifications. The first, comprising 12 municipal 
arrondisements, is principally well built, with those 
buildings and monuments, and embracing those 
grounds and gardens, which the world commonly 
knows as ''Paris." 

XX. 

The Seine, its Bridges, Quais and Islands. 

The Seine, which traverses Paris from E. to W. for a 
length of 7 miles, is lined with spacious quais and 
planted with trees for nearly all that distance. " Within 
the limits of the city, it is crossed by 27 bridges, many 
of them mamificent structures, and all substantial. 



The Seine and Bridges. 43 

Eight of these have been constructed since the ac- 
cession of Napoleon III., 1852 ; and on two of these 
payment is exacted from passengers, the remainder 
being free. Commencing at the east, or up the river, 
between Charenton and Bercy, the first is the Pont 
(Bridge) Napoleon III. , crossed by the Ceinture Rail- 
way (Belt), entirely encircling the city. The second, 
heading the southern Boulevard de la Gare, is the 
Pont de Bercy. The third, crossing between the Bou- 
levard de THopital on the south, and the Basin of 
the Canal St. Martin (running to the Place de la 
Bastille), on the north, is the Poni d'Auskrlilz.. Next 
follow the five connecting the He St. Louis with the 
main land on either side — the Pont de Constantine and 
Pont de la Tournelle on the south, and the Pont de 
Damietta, Pont Alarie and Pont Louis Philippe on the 
north. Next come the Pontde lArcheveque, Petit Pont, 
two minor and not ordinarily named, and the Pont St, 
Michel, connecting the He de la Cite with the southern 
side; the Pont Ar cole, Pont Notre Dame (nearly oppo- 
site the great church of the same name) and the Pont 
au Change^ connecting the same island with the north- 
ern shore ; and the long Pont Neuf, stretching all the 
way between the two banks of the rivei, and touching 
at the western end of the He de la Cite so as to make 
one thoroughfare. In the middle of this bridge is a 
bronze statue of Henry IV , (still one of the idols of 
the French. ). Next, down the river, come the Pont 
des ^ Arts, opposite the Louvre ; the Pont des Saintes 
Peres and Po72t Royal, both opposite the Tuilleries ; 
Pont de la Concorde, opposite the Place de la Con- 



44 Going to Pans, 

corde ; Pont des Invalides, nearly opposite the Hotel 
des Invalides on the south, and leading into the Allee 
d'Antin on the north ; the Pont d'Alma, leading by 
the Boulevard Josephine to the Arc d'Etoile at the 
north ; the Pont de Jena, opposite thfc Champ de 
Mars (place of the Exposition of 1878, as well as that 
of 1867), on the south, and the Trocadero and Place 
de la Roi de Rome (holding part of the Exposition of 
1878), on the north ; the Pont de Grenelle, between the 
two suburbs of Grenelle on the south and Passy on 
the north ; the Viaduct de Grenelle, crossed by the 
Ceinture Railway ; and the Pont de Billancourt, cross- 
ing between the Bois de Boulogne on the north and 
Bas Meudon and Fort d'Issy on the south. 

The Quais along the Seine are really among the 
features of Paris as well as of the river. They are 
constructed of stone and concrete work, of equal 
solidity and beauty ; and scarcely a second glance 
needs to be taken at them, to know that they belong 
to a municipality of very old date. They form a de- 
lightful promenade, and for a great part of their extent 
an equally delightful drive ; and he who does not 
traverse them frequently, loses some of the most in- 
teresting sights of the great city. Commencing with 
the Quai de la Rapee and the Quai Henry Quatre^ on 
the north side, a little above the He St. Louis, and the 
names generally suggesting the places opposite, there 
follow, going down the river or westward, the Quais 
deS" Celestins, St. Paul, Des Ormes, de Greve, Pelletiet, 
Gevres, de la Megisserie, de I'Ecole, du Louvre, des Tuil- 
leries de la Conference, and de. Billy (at the Pont de 



Boats on the Seine. 45 

Jena and the Exposition). On the south side of the 
river, from a Httle above the Pont d'Austerhtz, follow 
the Quais Ausierlitz, St. Bernard, de la Tour elk, Monte- 
bello, St. Michel, des Augustins, Conti, Malaquais, 
d' Or say (very long, and extending from opposite the 
Louvre to past the Champ de Mars), Grenelle, favelle, 
and Bas Meudon. 

The number of Islands in the Seine, within the 
extreme boundaries of the great city, is by no means 
that of an Archipelago. At the confluence with the 
Marne, at the extreme south and east, there are sev-. 
eral small islands, actually within the Marne, and with 
no known name. Below that point, and in addition 
to the Ik St. Louis and the He de la Cite, already 
named, there are the islands of Billancourt (or St. 
Germain) and Seguin^ both lying at the bend of 
Meudon, not far above the Bridge of St. Cloud ; and 
still below, though northward, opposite the northern 
part of the Bois de Boulogne, the long He de Puteaux^ 
the small and nameless one crossed by the Pont de 
Neuilly, the He de la Grande Jatte, and the twin Hes 
Vaillard and Robinson. 

XXI. 

Boats on the Seine. 
Very little navigation takes place on the Seine, at 
and about Paris, compared with the same detail of 
most other large cities, and especially compared with 
the London, which always invites comparison on the 
European side of the Atlantic, and the New York, 
which supplies the same temptation on the American. 



46 Going to Paris. 

Large and long as the river may be, it is too far from 
the sea, at Paris, for any display of large vessels ; and 
only, lately, in point of fact, has any extended attempt 
been made to give it what can be called " navigation," 
of any class. Few more perfect burlesques were ever 
arranged, than the coat-of-arms of Paris, the lower part 
of which contains an antique ship, or galley, under full 
sail, with the motto : " Fluctuat nee mergitur," which 
may be freely rendered : ''Knocked about but not 
sunken." The necessity of a spar showing above the 
quays, is somewhat ludicrously met, most seasons, by 
the top-hamper of a small sea-going vessel, on a boat 
moored off the Quai d'Orsay or thereabouts, employed 
as some kind of school, whether of natation or aero- 
nautics remains a question of memory. 

And yet very material changes, in the employment 
of these waters, have taken place within the past ten 
or a dozen years — largely influenced, they say, by the 
English and American pressure of the Exposition year, 
1867. Up to that time, scarcely any boat was known 
on the Seine, at Paris or its neighborhood, except the 
few barges bringing produce up or down for consump- 
tion in the city. The demands and necessities of that 
year induced more employment of the water ; the 
knowledge gained induced more ; and the result has 
been that something like the '' penny boats " of the 
Thames now have place and perform a quite-important 
office. From the principal pier at the Pont Royal, 
near the Tuilleries, small steamers now ply from early 
morning until nightfall, to and from Auteuil, Passy, 
Meudon, Sevres, St. Cloud, Boulogne-sur-Seine, ^nd 



Seine WaslLeriuoDien and Suicides. 47 

several minor places, with stoppages at most ^/f the 
bridges ; and a very pleasant means of transit is thus 
afforded in summer, however diminutive the vessels 
and however opposed the whole affair to received 
marine ideas. A more extended branch of the same 
service, for some years past has run between Paris and 
Rouen, with increasing patronage and the probability 
of permanence. For any one having the -leisure at 
disposal, this last run is simply delightful and to be 
enjoyed without question. 

XXII. 
The Seine, its Washerwomen and Suicides. 
But if the Seine is not much employed in the detail 
of navigation, and if its dingy water is not likely to be 
employed to much extent as a beverage, the river has 
another and important use in connection with the 
welfare of the city and its inhabitants. Throughout 
all Southern Europe the washing of clothes is a detail 
as generally pursued out-of-doors as in the North it 
takes place within ; and many a fountain and river side 
is better remembered by the tourist from the white 
linens that he has seen seething in its waters or stretched 
on the grass beside it, than for any other feature. All 
France partakes of this habit, and Paris notably. 
Neither Englishmen nor Americans will be likely to 
shower unlimited praise on the laundrying of the 
Parisian hlanchisseuses, as some of the gray-blue tint of 
the river mud seems to incorporate itself with the 
clothes" thus managed; but of the fact that thev are 
washed there cannot be any doubt, as any one can see 



48 Going to Paris. 

the operation going on, at the sides of the washing- 
boats moored below the quays, on which some three 
hundred women daily conduct the first operations of 
laundrying, in the midst of an amount of gabble con- 
fusing to any Northern sense. If the primal object of 
cleansing the clothes is not quite so well accomplished 
below the Seine banks as at some other places in the 
world, the picturesque is well cared for in the operation 
of the hlanchisserie, and who shall complain ? 

There is really no necessary connection between 
washerwomen and suicide, except in the cases in 
which they drive their victims to despair by the de- 
struction and non-replacement of buttons ; but the 
same cannot be said of the river on which they are so 
much employed. Who can think of the word ''Seine," 
without remembering the many books in which the 
suicides of Paris are named, a very large proportion of 
them by water, and necessarily all these in this river .? 
The French are a mercurial people, as all know — 
suffering intensely as well as keenly enjoying; and 
they "jump the life to come," to an extent not easily 
understood by a Saxon or a Celt. The great Morgue, 
or dead-house of Paris, stands on the He de la Cite, 
at the north, very convenient for the disposal of bodies 
discovered in the river ; and not a day has passed, 
within the memory of man or that of history, without 
a ghastly array of corpses, ranging from five to fifty, 
lying on the boards of that painful receptacle, and evi- 
dencing that however partial the Parisians may be to 
suffocation by charcoal, as an easy means of departure 
from the world, many of them prefer the cheaper 



The Boulevards. 



49 



mode of drowning. As nothing more will be said 
about the INIorgue and its spectacles, except simply to 
name it in a list, in this volume — let us here set down 
one word of advice with reference to it, quite as for- 
cible as Punch's "Don't!" to those contemplating 
marriage. That word of advice is : If not called to 
the Morgue by painful necessity, or professional de- 
mand, keep, away from it ! 

XXIII. 

What, Where and Which are the Boulevards. 

Before proceeding to enumerate and examine the 
notable places and buildihgs of Paris, it may be well 
to make a few statements with reference to a word, 
"boulevard," which is perhaps as often used in con- 
nection with Paris as any other, and the species of 
streets thus represented. (The French word, by the 
way, is generally spelled " boulevart, " though that 
usage is not universal. ) The boulevard, of which we 
do not pretend to give any derivation for the name ex- 
cept that it means '* bulwark" or "rampart," is in 
Paris and other continental cities (and beginning to be 
in some of those of America), simply a wide street, 
planted on each side with trees between the roadway 
and the sidewalk, beauty being thus added to the 
street, and the sidewalk so rendered shady and ad- 
ditionally pleasant. Of course the Parisian boulevards 
contain most of the great shops of the city ; and no- 
where else in the world can be found the same mag- 
nificence of plate-glass shop windows — some of the 
single plates worth thousands of dollars each — and the 



50 Going to Paris. 

same charming skill in the science of "window- 
dressing." (Some of the houses devoted to silks, jewelry 
and fancy-goods, on the Boulevards des Capucines, 
des Italiens, Montmartre, &c., as those of the Com- 
pagnie des Indes, the Lyons Company, etc., have 
window-displays equal to anything in a fairy tale ; and 
very much of the charm of these thoroughfares is to be 
found in such a bordering, appealing equally to the eye 
and the other senses.) By day, they are radiantly bril- 
liant, with the shops, the cafes and the crowds flock- 
ing around them ; by night, as will be hereafter shown 
mDre at length, they assume new shapes of beauty and 
richness, the gift of gas-light and the attendant of 
evening. 

Up to within a certain limited period, the boule- 
vards of Paris were almost totally confined to one long 
and uneven line, running in an irregular halt-circle 
from the Place de la Bastille, at near the eastern end of 
the city proper, to the Church of the Madeleine, at near 
the western end. Late years have added many to the 
list; but still the phrase ''Parisian boulevards" is 
generally understood to mean this succession. Begin- 
ning at the Madeleine, at the west (reversing the order 
before given, because most visitors first see them in the 
succession here following), the first Boulevard of this 
range is the very short B. Madeleine, running from the 
Rue Royale and the front of the Madeleine to the 
Rue Caumartin. Next, the B. des Capucines, connect- 
ing with the before-named and ending at the Rue de 
la Chaussee d'Antin. Next, the j5. des Italiens *qx\.^\vi% 
at the Old Opera House and the Rue Drouot. Next, 



TliG Boulevards. 



5 



the B. Montmartre, ending at the Rue du Faubourg 
Montmartre. Next, the B. Poissoniere, ending at the 
Rue du Faubourg Poissoniere. Next, the B. Bonne 
Nouvelle, ending at the Porte St. Denis. Next, the 
B. St. Denis., ending at the (spot formerly occupied 
by the) Porte St. Martin. Next, the B. Si. Martin, 
ending at the Chateau d'Eau. Next, the B. du Temple., 
ending at the Rue Oberkampf. Next, the B. des Filles 
du Calvaire, ending at Ruelle des Jardiniers. Next, 
and last, the B. Beaumarchais^ ending at the Place de 
la Bastille. 

Modern Paris has another line of boulevards, com- 
mencing at the Arc de I'Etoile and forming a much 
larger outer circle irregularly parallel with the previous. 
Commencing at the Arc de I'Etoile, on the west, the 
B. de HEtoile, ending at the Faubourg du Roule- Next, 
the B. de Courcelles, (passing the Pare du Monceaux 
on the right), ending at the B. Malasherbes. Next, 
the B. des Batignoiies, ending at the Grand Rue de 
Clichy.^ Next, the B. de Clichy^ (passing the Buttes 
Montmartre), ending at the Rue des Martyrs. Next, 
the B. de Rochechouart, ending at the Rue du Faubourg 
Poissoniere. Next, the B. de la Chapelle, ending at 
the Place de la Rotondet Next, the B. de la Villette, 
ending at the Rue de Paris. Next, the B. de Belleville 
(passing Belleville, on the left), ending at the Chaussee 
de Menilmontant. Next, the B. Menilmontant, passing 
the Cemetery of Pere la Chaise and ending at the Rue 
de Fontarabie. Next, and last, the B. de Philippe 
Auguste, ending at the Place du Trone, on the Avenue 
de Vincennes. 



52 Goijig to Paris. 

[It needs scarcely be suggested that the most com- 
prehensive single street-drive in Paris, is to be found 
in the two successions named — starting, say, from the 
Madeleine, passing along the first succession to the 
Place de la Bastille, then turning into the second, at 
near the latter place, and pursuing the reverse of the 
second succession to the Arc de I'Etoile, and thence 
down the Champs Elysees, over the Place de la Con- 
corde and through the Rue Royale, to the place of 
departure at the Madeleine.] 

Many other and important boulevards are contained 
in "New Paris" — i. e., Paris as materially altered and 
beautified (at whatever cost) by the late Emperor. A 
few of these, on both sides of the Seine, may properly 
be named. Commencing at the end of the B. Roche- 
chouart, in the second circle just completed, and run- 
ning^ southeastward to the B. St Martin, is the B. 
Magenta, literally ending in the B. du Temple. From 
near that point, another very fine boulevard, the B. 
Voltaire, continues the course southeastward to the 
Place du Trone, An immense thoroughfare, the B. 
Sebastopol, runs from the B. St. Denis, on the main 
succession, to the Seine at the B. de Paris over the lie 
de la Cite, and there joins the B. St. Michel to the 
B. Montparnasse. Leaving the Arc de I'Etoile at near 
the Avenue des Champs Elysees, run northeastward the 
B. Friedland, followed by the B. Haussman (named for 
Napoleon III.'s great destroyer and rebuilder), and the 
B, Lafayette, ending at the Place de la Rotonde on the 
second or outer circle. Running from the Seine at 
near the Pont d'Austerlitz, to the Place du Trone, is 



The Great Avenues. 53 

the B. Mazas, \^hich must conclude the list on the right 
bank. 

On the left or southern side of the Seine, the prin- 
cipal boulevards have been those of a smaller and 
minor half-circle, commencing at near the Champ de 
Mars and ending on the Seine at the Pont d'Austerlitz. 
The first of this succession is the B. Montparnasse, 
running out of the Avenues Bourdonnaye and Du- 
quesne (which come up from the Seine by the Champ 
de Mars). This ends at the Observatoire and the 
crossing of the B. St. Michel, which runs down to the 
Seine at the Pont St. Michel, centre of the He de la 
Cite. Joining the B. Montparnasse, is the B. St. 
Marcel, ending at the Rue Mouffetard, which forms 
a diagonal connection with the B. de VHopital, running 
down to the Seine at the Place Walhubert and the 
Pont d'Austerlitz. Behind these {i. e. , further away 
from the Seine), are the B. Arago, running behind the 
Conservatoire, — and the B. d'ltalie and B. de la Gare, 
running from behind the Conservatoire to the Seine at 
the Pont de Bercy. There are necessarily many other 
boulevards, major and minor (besides the quais along 
the Seine, forming splendid drives and walks) ; but the 
most important have here been named, and quite suf- 
ficient for the instruction of the tourist who is not more 
careless than the average in his readings and application. 

XXIV. 

Some of the Great Avenues, 
What may be called the '' great avenues " of Paris, 
are nearly as numerous as the boulevards, and in some 



54 Going to Paris. 

regards they are even more important^ running singly 
for longer distances and uniting points of universal re- 
sort. Attention deserves to be called to a few of the 
most important of these, with their location. One of 
the first to be noticed, and most important if not the 
longest, is the Avenue des Champs Ely sees, running from 
the north side of the Place de la Concorde, the length 
of the Champs Elysees, and ending at the Arc de TEtoile 
on the top of the elevation dividing Passy on the left 
and the Batignolles on the right Corresponding with 
this, and in a line with it, on the other side of the 
Arch, runs the Avenue de la Grande Armee, leading past, 
the north-east corner of the Bois de Boulogne, and 
becoming the A. St. Germain before reaching the 
Seine at the Pont de Neuilly. Running also from the 
Arc de I'Etoile, but nearly westward, is the short, very 
wide A. du Bois de Boulogne, ending at the Porte Dau- 
phine entrance into the great Park. Across the Bois 
de Boulogne, south-westward, runs the Allee (or A,) 
de Longchamps, commencing at the Porte de Neuilly, 
at the north-eastern corner of the Bois, and extending 
to the Hippodrome de Longchamps, (race course) 
on its western side, near the Seine. Crossing this, and 
running through the Bois from northern to southern 
ends, is the Allee (or A.) de la Reine Marguerite (often 
known without the last name), commencing at the 
little Boulevard de Madrid, and ending at the Route 
de Boulogne at Auteuil. Leading from the Arc de I'E- 
toile nearly southward to the Seine at the Place ^du 
Roi de Rome, the Trocadero, the Pont de Jena and 
the spot of the Exposition of 1878, is the short but 



Tlie Great Avenues. 55 

important A. du Roi de Rome. Leading northeast- 
ward from the Avenue de la Grande Armee towards 
St. Denis, is the Rouk de la Revolte. Leading from 
the Place de la Rotonde (see second succession of 
Boulevards, XXIL ) is the great Rouk de Flanders, con- 
necting with the Rue St. Martin, Rue St. Jacques, 
etc., and forming an uninterrupted line across both 
sides of the city, over the Seine at Notre Dame, from 
the Luxembourg Palace to Fort Aubervilliers at the 
extreme north-east. Running from the Place d'ltalie, 
on the left bank, are the Route de Fontainebleau and the 
Route de Choisy le Roi, their destinations indicated by 
their names. Running from the B. Mazas (and then 
from the Seine at the Pont d'Austerlitz), are the con- 
nected Avenues St. Mande and Bel Air, leading to Vin- 
cennes. Leading from the Boulevard Montparnasse, 
is the Avenue de Maine, shortly becoming the Chaussee 
de Maine, and then the Route d' Orleans, by Fort de 
Montrouge. Leading from this route, at near the 
Petit Montrouge, is the Route de Chaiillon, to that sub- 
urb and passing near Fort de Vanves. Leading from 
Vincennes at the Porte de St. Mande, and passing be- 
tween the Bois and Pare de Vincennes, is the Route de 
Charenton, becoming the Route de Bourgogne, and 
passing by the Fort de Charenton. Leading from the 
Place d'ltalie, south side of the river, and from the 
Seine at the Pont de Bercy, the Route de Fontaitiebleau. 
And, quite as important as any, the Route de Sevres 
et Neuilly^ crossing the Seine at the Pont de Neuilly, or 
(oftener used) crossing at the Pont de Suresnes, and 
continuing up the west bank of the river to St. Cloud, 



56 Going to Paris. 

or to Sevres, oh the way to A^ersailles, These by no 
means compose all the great Avenues or Routes leading 
to the suburbs ; but they at least number the princi- 
pal, and are quite as many as any visitor is likely to 
be able to traverse, however hurriedly. 

XXV. 

Paris Railways, In and Out. 
The American fever for street-railways, by no means 
yet fully acclimated in London, may be said to have 
just reached Paris, but fairly taken there. The only 
attempt at reproducing the street -horse-car was until 
lately to be found in a single line, commencing on the 
quai beside the Louvre, running down the north bank 
of the Seine nearly to Auteuil, at the south-east of the 
Bois de Boulogne, then crossing below the foot of the 
Bois and the suburban section of Boulogne, over the 
river by the Pont de Sevres, to that town and thence 
on to Versailles. In construction, these cars are very 
like long omnibuses, with very low wheels, and run- 
ning in grooved tracks no higher than the level of the 
street. During the summer they are very well patron- 
ized ; and during all the season they supply one of the 
favorite modes of reaching Sevres and Versailles, for 
those who wish to do so at a moderate expenditure : 
the rival modes being ( i ) the private carriage, procur- 
able at rates by no means immoderate ; (2) the excur- 
sion-carriages of Mons. Du Lorin, leaving the front of 
Notre Dame in the morning, usually at about io| 
o'clock, and especially patronized on Sundays; (3) the 
steam-railway, accessible from the .outside of any ^ part 



Paris Railivays. 57 

of Paris, by the Ceinture (Belt) Railway, but with the 
starting-point at the Station St. Lazare, on the street 
of the same name, two or three squares from the Bou- 
levard Malesherbes, by the Rue Pepiniere, and imme- 
diately up the Rue Tronchet and its connections from 
the Madelaine. 

Other and important additions have lately been made, 
of what the English call ' ' tramways" and the French 
"voies ferrees." The following principal routes, with 
several others of less consequence, are now in opera- 
tion. From the Louvre to Vincennes ; from the Arc 
de I'Etoile to La Villette ; from La Villette to the Place 
du Trone ; from the Place du Trone to the Place 
d'ltalie ; from the Gare de Lyon to the Gare Montpar- 
nasse; from the Gare Montparnasse to the Arc de I'Etoile. 
All the above belonging to the Omnibus Company, 
and in connection with the Louvre and Versailles line 
lately mentioned. Another line, known as the " Tram- 
ways Nord," runs from the Arc de I'Etoile to Suresnes ; 
from La Chapelle to St. Denis ; from the Chateau 
d'Eau to Aubei-villiers ; from the Chateau d'Eau to 
Pantin ; from the Place de Clichy to St. Denis ; 
with several other and minor connections. The 
^'Tramways Sud" comprise lines from the Place 
du Trone to Montreuil ; from the Gare de Lyon 
toCharenton; from the Jardin de Cluny (Hotel de 
Cluny) to Ivry and Vitry ; from the same place to 
Villejuif; from St. Germain des Pres to Chatillon ; 
from St. Germain des Pres to Clamart, etc. 

To say where the Ceinture (or Belt) Railway com- 
mences, or where it ends, would be more than difficult. 



58 Going to Paris* 

Of course, forming a ring, it has neither beginning 
nor end. It runs around the whole city, just within 
the line of the fortifications; and with eight of the long 
or country lines running out to and past its line, from 
nearer the centre of the city, communicating with it 
and acting as feeders, its service to the people as well 
as its business is immense. Along the line of its circle 
or very near it, and reached from one or another of the 
numerous stations, lie (commencing at the Seine at 
the Auteuil curving, below the Champs de Mars, and 
running around to the right) Auteuil, Passy, the Ba~ 
tignolles Monceaux, Clichy, the Buttes Montmartre, 
La Chapelle, La Villette, the Buttes Chaumont, Belle-- 
ville, Menilmontant, Charonne, St. Mande, Charenton, 
Bercy, Ivry, Centilly, Montrouge and Vaugirard, with 
which latter we return to the Seine and the point- of 
starting. The Versailles Railway passes Asnieres, Coar- 
bevoie, Puteau, Suresnes, and St. Cloud, besides the 
hamlets lying between the latter and Versailles. The 
Nord Railway passes St. Denis, besides many new 
places of less importance. The Strasbourg Railway 
passes near La Villette, Pantin and Romainville, be- 
sides the Fort of the latter name. The Vincennes 
Railv/ay passes St. Mande, Vincennes, its Park and 
Bois. The Lyons Railway passes Bercy and Charen- 
ton. The Orleans Railway passes Ivry, etc., to Corbeil. 
The Paris and Sceaux Railway passes through Centilly 
and Arceuil. And the Brittany Railway passes Vanves 
and the Fort of the same name, and by Meudon, Sev*- 
res and Versailles. 



Paris Railways. 59 

The Embarcaderes or stations (American, and im- 
properly, "depots,"') of the principal steam-railways, 
are to be found as follows : 

The Nord, for Calais or Boulogne, by Amiens, &c., 
or for Belgium : Place Roubaix, at near the junction 
of the Boulevard de Magenta, going north from the 
Boulevard St. Martin, and the Boulevard Lafayette, 
going north-eastward from the Grand Hotel and its 
neighborhood by the Rue de la Chaussee d'Antin and 
the Boulevard Haussman. 

The East (Est), for Chalons, Strasbourg, Nancy, 
Metz, Germany, the Rhine and Switzerland : Boule- 
vard de Strasbourg, off the Boulevard Magenta. (See 
Nord.) 

The West (Quest), Rive Droite, or right bank of 
the Seine, Normandy line to Rouen, Dieppe, Havre, 
Trouville, Cherbourg, &c. : Rue d' Amsterdam, and 
Rue de St. Lazare, off the Boulevard Malesherbes to- 
the east, and off the Rue de la Chaussee d'Antin ta 
the west. 

The West ( Guest j, Rive Gauche, cr left bank of the 
Seine, Brittany line, to Rennes, St. Malo, Brest, &c. : 
Boulevard Montparnasse, south side of the Seine, near 
the river Luxembourg. 

The Orleans, for Orleans, Bordeaux, Biarritz, &c.,. 
and Spain : Boulevard de I'Hopital, south side of the 
Seine, at near the Pont d'Austerlitz. 

The Vincennes, to St. Mande, Joinville, Vincennes 
and other suburban points : Place de la Bastille, 
southeastern end of the main line of boulevards. 



6o Going to Paris. 

The Orsay and Sceaux, to Sceaux, Orsay, &c. : Place 
d'Enfer, south side of the Seine, at junction of the 
Boulevard St. Jacques and the Boulevard d'Enfer. 

The Lyons and Mediterranean, for Macon, Geneva, 
Mont Cenis Tunnel, Lyons, &c. : Boulevard Mazas, 
near the Seine, above the Pont d'Austerlitz, opposite 
the prison of La Force. 

The Ceiniure, all around Paris and with connections 
with all roads : stations numerous and in all sections. 

XXVL 

Paris Cabs, Carriages and Omnibuses. 
After London, no other city in the world has so 
complete and comprehensive a system of Cabs as Paris; 
and while the London is preferable in many regards, 
in some others Paris has materially the advantage < 
ThQ London cabs are decidedly cheaper, but the Paris 
ones are cheap enough to suit all purses ; and Paris 
has the advantage of having many open vehicles, more 
convenient than either hansom or four-wheeler, and 
allowed by the weather, as they might be in New York 
but as they would not be in London. The drivers of 
most of the ordinary open cabs, have a specialty of 
wearing red waistcoats and glazed high hats, forming 
an odd uniform to that extent ; in point of person- 
ality they will about compare with the London cab- 
men, both in intelligence and manners. Thanks to 
the severity of the laws, they are very cautious,, in 
swindles that might otherwise be attempted ; and, 
thanks to the same influence, they are exceptionally 
careful about preserving and handing in at the place 



Cars, Carriages and Omnibuses. 6i 

appointed for that purpose, any article left behind in 
their vehicles. They will bear a little watching, how- 
ever ; and the employer should always be careful in 
bargaining and employment, — without which he is 
very much at their mercy. 

The cabs are of two descriptions, voitures de remise 
and voitures de place. The former have no special 
places, and may be taken wherever found at liberty, at 
stables, &c. The latter, the "voiture de place/' is the 
ordinary cab, deriving its name from being stationed at 
appointed places at and around the public thorough- 
fares. The remises are by far the more genteel, and 
cost somewhat more than the ordinary cab; but the 
cost of neither is high, and either conveyance is good 
enough for ordinary transit, though the common cab is 
not always fit for any genteel purpose, and special car- 
riage may need to be employed. Both are to be hired 
in either of two modes : by the course (journey), or 
the hour (par la course, oi par Theure). In either case, 
the driver, if requested, will hand the patron a small 
card, on which are the number of his vehicle, and the 
rates for different hirings. From the following part of 
a preserved card of 1876, the comparative and average 
prices may be ascertained, and in no season will they 
vary materially. 

Takejt at Special Hire — daytime. 

By the Course {La Course^, any single journey inside 

the fortifications, _ - - > 2 francs. 

By the Hour (IHeure) - - - - 2f. 50a 



62 Going to Paris. 

Taken at Special Hire — night. 
By the Course (La Course) any single short jour- 
ney, - - - - - - 3 francs 

By the Hour (THeure), - - - - 3 francs 

Taken in the public way or at a railway -station. 
By the Course, - - - - - i fr, 70c. 
By the Hour, - - - - - 2 fr. 25c. 

Outside the fortifications, ivheji the hirer corms back with 

the voiture, special hire. 

By the Hour, for the journey out, - - 3 fr. 

Indemnity for return, - - - - - 2 fr. 

Outside the fortifications, cab dismissed outside. 
By the Hour, - - - - - 2 fr. 75c. 
Indemnity for return, - _ _ _ i fr. 

[The places named on the card as being ' ' outside 
the fortifications," are usually Charenton, le Pres de St. 
Gervais, St. Mande, Montreuil, Bagnolet, Romainville, 
Pantin, Aubervilliers, St. Ouen, St. Denis, Clichy, 
Neuilly, Boulogne-sur-Seine, Issy, Vanves, Mont- 
rouge, Arceuil, Gentilly, Ivry and Vincennes.] 

The hiring of Carriages may generally be done prop- 
erly by application at the hotel of stoppage, through 
the porter or one of the commissionaires always in view 
and ready for short employment. The carriages cost 
something less than in London, and not half what they 
cost in New York ; and they will generally be found 
respectable and well managed, with fair horses, though 
not up to the average of English carriage-stock. For 
extended rides into the suburbs, a carriage specially 



Cars, Carriages and Omnihuses. - 63 

selected is always to be preferred to the cab, by those 
who can afford to pay the difference. For going to 
Sevres and Versailles, especially on Sunday (the great 
day and time for playing of the fountains, at the latter 
place), profitable arrangements may always be made 
the day previous, with Mons. Du Lorin (mentioned 
in XXV) at the door of Notre Dame, as he has a spe- 
cialty of managing excursions, and every facility for 
supplying conveyances. 

All the Omnibuses in Paris are in the hands of and 
worked by a single company. They are very well 
managed, and supply transit over many routes at very 
low prices and conveniently. The regular trips com- 
mence at 7 A. M. and close at midnight. For a place 
inside, the rate is 30 centimes, or about 6 cents ; and 
for an outside place 15 centimes, or about 3 cents. 
Many lines cross each other, and exchange tickets 
(called ''correspondence tickets") are supplied, if 
demanded when the fare is paid. When the omnibus 
is full inside, the word ''Complet" is hung at the 
door, and then no one may enter. It is almost need- 
less to say that they run on all the grand boulevards, 
with more cracking of whips than can be heard else- 
where in the world ; but it would be equally impossible 
and unprofitable to attempt giving the routes, here. 
All the different lines' have different colors, with which 
one grows familiar after a time ; and they are lettered 
from A to Z, and from AB to AG, instead of being 
numbered.' A little care will enable the visitor soon 
to discover the distinctions of these vehicles -, or he 
may buy a little guide-book explaining everything, for 



64 Ooing to Paris. 

half a franc or less, at any of the waiting rooms of the 
Omnibus Company. Intelligent use of the omnibus, 
here as in London, will materially aid in moving about 
the city, and materially reduce the alternative expenses 
of the tourist. 

XXVII. 

Postal, and Telegraph Services. 
The General Post Office, with the Poste Restante 
Ofifice (place for letters to lie and wait), is to be found 
in the Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, reached from the 
Rue Rivoli by the Boulevard du Louvre, or from the 
B. Montmartre by the Rue Montmartre There are, 
besides, twelve branch offices, and an immense num- 
ber of letter boxes, quite safe for the deposit of corres- 
pondence. > Money orders are granted from one post- 
station to any other in France, though no arrangement 
has as yet been made for such communication to 
America, as there has with England. Two letter- 
despatches are made every day for London ; and they 
are made for America half a day in advance of the sail- 
ing of important mail steamers from Havre, and one 
day in adyance of those from Liverpool and other port 
out of France. It is advisable to post all American 
letters late on the previous night, or before 5 45 in the 
morning, for any special day's departure. Boxes for 
the deposit of letters are to be found at all the principal 
hotels, and stamps may be purchased at the offices 
there. 

*^ The two prmcipal Telegraph Offices are at No. 1 2 
Place de la Bourse, in front of the Bourse, two or three 
squares southward from the Boulevard Montmartre, — 



Postal and Telegraph Sei'vices. 65 

and No. 103 Rue de Grenelle St. Germain ; these are 
open at all hours, day and night. There are also some 
40 sub-offices in the city, and at the Grand Hotel and 
some of the other great places of resort are offices, 
open until midnight to half-past twelve. Among the 
most important of the sub-stations, for general con- 
venience, may be mentioned those at 33, Avenue des 
Champs Elysees ; 24, Place Robaix (Northern Railway 
Station) ; 57 and 59, Rue de Lyon ; 55, Quai d'Aus- 
terlitz (Orleans Railway Station) ; Place du Theatre 
Francais, Rue Richelieu; 17, Rue de Rivoli;-i5, 
Boulevard St. Denis ; Halles Centrales ; 4, Boulevard 
Malesherbes ; 35, Rue Lafayette; Passy, Place de la 
Mairie, 4 ; Auieuil^ Grand Rue, 10 ; Montmartre, Rue 
Rochechouart, 40; La Chapelle^ Grand Rue, 102; 
Belleville, Rue de Paris, 58 ; Montrouge, Route d'Orleans, 
3. The interior tariff for telegraphing is as follows 
(changes possible) : Within Paris, for 20 words, 50 
centimes ; between 2 offices of same town or depart- 
ment, in France, 50 centimes; between other parts 
of France, 1 franc. Rates to America cannot be given, 
owing to constant changes ; and those to London 
(usually about 4 to 5 f. for 20 words), are likewise 
liable to constant alteration. 

XXVIIL 

Hotels, Lodging-Houses, Restaurants and Cafes, 
Paris, as all the world may well be aware, is abund- 
antly supplied with hotels ; and visitors know equally 
well that in some regards the best of them are among 
the best in any city, while in other details, and some 



66 Gomg to Paris. 

of them in all details, they are inferior to the best 
American and English, and demand much patience. 
For any tourist making brief stay in Paris, however, 
there cannot be any question of the policy of taking 
rooms at one of the hotels, in preference to seeking 
lodgings. The reasons for this choice are easily un- 
derstood. At any of the leading hotels, much more 
is to be seen, and consequently much more to be 
learned, in a single day, than in a month in quiet and 
sequestered lodgings. At the hotels, there is a con- 
stant arrival and departure of guests, giving a variety 
to every day ; and at the best hotels there are always 
more or less of distinguished arrivals, which the visitor 
may be glad to see and sorry to miss, to an extent 
much beyond the difference of cost of his lodgings. 
In ordinary seasons, the expense of boarding at ,a 
good Paris hotel is very nearly the same as in a Lon- 
don one, and something less than in a New York one 
of corresponding class ; but naturally, in a crowded 
season, like one witnessing an International Exposi- 
tion, prices increase to a considerable degree, though 
during that of 1867 they did not approach the exorbi- 
tant rates of Vienna in 1873. ^^^ ^^Y ^^^^* ^^^7' ^^® 
best of the Paris hotels can be trusted and depended 
upon ; for a longer, furnished apartments {appartepienis 
vieuhUs of the announcements) may well be taken, 
with careful understanding of their location, surround- 
ings, price, and what duties they involve and what 
privileges they afford. 

At most of the Parisian hotels, at present, English 
is spoken by one or more of the proprietors, and 



Hotels and Cafes. Sj 

some of the attendants are quite sure to understand 
that language to a practical extent. In cases where 
there is no knowledge whatever on the part of the 
tourist, of the French language, a little early attention 
to discovering who of the staff of the house speaks 
English, is advisable ; in cases where the French is 
spoken badly by him, it is wise to make most depend- 
ance on it and endeavor in that way to effect an 
improvement. Where the knowledge of language is 
deficient, and the purse can well afford the outlay, the 
system of employing some one of the interpreters, 
guides or couriers generally to be found at and under 
recommendation through the first-class hotels, is a 
good one, as needed indoor attendance and the some- 
times indispensable outdoor, in visiting places to 
advantage, can thus be secured. Most of the first- 
class hotels now supply table d'hote dinners, which 
should be taken by every visitor who can so arrange 
his time, in preference to taking that meal with others 
a la carte. Occasional gratuities to the servants, at 
Parisian hotels as elsewhere, are generally advisable 
even if abominable. 

[No names of Parisian hotels are here given, and 
no recommendations of any of them made. In the 
later portioiis of this work will be found the announce- 
ments of such of them as choose to put themselves before the 
public through this medium^ and such of them as we have 
reason to believe entitled to patronage. ] 

Furnished Apartments have been already spoken of 
as the alternative of the hotels ; and very little remains 
to say of them. ^ The number of them in Paris is very 



68 Going to Paris. 

large ; and they can be conveniently sought with the 
aid of a commissionaire or any acquaintance famiUar 
with the best localities. Many English and Americans 
are accommodated, in this regard, on all the streets 
running out ot the main boulevards, and the near ones 
parallel with the latter. In the neighborhood of the 
Champs Elysees, and the Rue and Faubourg St. 
Honore, adjacent, many Americans of liberal means 
make their chosen homes in houses of this class, while 
less expensive ones stretch along the other boulevards, 
eastward, and laterally. For convenience in visiting 
any Exhibition at the Champ de Mars, no lodging- 
house location is more advisable than at and around 
Passy, near the Bois de Boulogne, or Auteuil, adjoin- 
ing it on the south. 

It should be noted, for the information of those not 
familiar with that mode of living, that the Parisian 
lodging-house may be merely a place of lodging, or 
that it may be (and with more advantage, if properly 
arranged) a place for at least breakfasting and supping 
as well, the keepers (always women and often ladies) 
being very willing to arrange for the provision or 
bringing in of food for those meals, while the dinner is 
almost always depended on to be procured at the res- 
taurant or cafe. Requisite attendance can also be 
generally secured, by those travelling or sojourning 
without domestics. 

Paris is immensely supplied with Restaurants and 
Cafes, both being rendered necessary by the undomestic 
character of the people, who literally live out-of-doors 
(i. e., beyond their own roof- trees when they have any), 



Hotels and Cafes. 60 

during a greater proportion of time than any other 
civilized people on earth, except possibly the Teutons, 
— and by the constant influx of visitors from all lands, 
to whom undomestic life is for the time a necessity. 
Along nearly all the boulevards, in the cross-streets 
leading out of them, around the Palais Royal and the 
theatrical sections of the middle city, below the main 
boulevards towards the Seine — there and literally every- 
where throughout the city and suburbs they abound. 
They offer food fitted to all pockets, from the Cafe 
Anglais and Cafe Riche of the boulevards, and Very's 
and the Trois Freres Provencaux of the Palais Royal, 
to the cheaper resorts of the side-streets, and the still 
cheaper of those stretching away southward to the 
Faubourg St. Antoine. Their visitors are legion, at 
nearly all hours of the day and some portion of the 
night ; and the variety of food they ofTer, from the very 
best to the very worst, cannot easily be paralleled in the 
world. As a general thing, the tables of Parisian res- 
taurants, after all said about them, do not compare 
favorably with those of London, New York or San 
Francisco, to most Americans and many English ; and 
yet perhaps they receive more words of approval, in 
print and from the lips, than any other tables known. 
Both the Englishman and the American, fond of the 
roast-beef to which they have been accustomed, fail to 
find it in Paris to their full liking ; and the American, 
especially, whose taste in steaks has been pampered by 
Delmonico, the Westminster, the Philadelphia'Con- 
tinentaL and other depots of that special form of viand, 
looks upon the ///(?/ with which the Parisian restaurant 



70 Going to Paris. 

supplies him, not a little contemptuously and with 
some doubt how often it may not be — horse ! In 
kickshaws and delicacies, however, the Parisian res- 
taurants are unequalled ; in chocolate preparations and 
sweetmeats they are matchless ; and in the making of 
coffee they are perfect — at least the best of them. Be- 
coming for the time cosmopolitan, and not asking too 
many questions about the origin of the food supplied, 
one may breakfast, dine or sup at these restaurants very 
satisfactorily, and (as already said) at almost any ex- 
penditure, or want of expenditure, that may be desired. 
In figures — a very good dinner may be had at from 2 
francs 50 c. to 5 francs, comprising soup, three courses 
(of meat, fish, vegetables or salad), dessert, and* a 
bottle of red or white wine. Waiters expect to be feed^ 
in all cases ; and the fees range fi-om 20 to 50 centimes. 
Some of the remarks just made with reference to the 
Restaurants, will apply to the Cafes, with which Paris 
is if possible more liberally supplied than with the dis- 
pensaries of solids. They are literally everywhere and 
innumerable — along the main chain of the boulevards, 
nearly adjoining each other ; and they all, when they 
have any trottoir in front, cover it with tables, at which 
most of the taking coffee, drinking or smoking is car- 
ried on, at all hours of the day and nearly all of the 
night. _ Not to see them, is to miss the greatest gather- 
ing of individualities, male and female, to be found in 
any single relation, on earth ; not to take place at some 
of the tables, especially at night, and watch what is 
going on at the others, is to lose an opportunity of 
study that can never be duplicated. Perhaps it only 



.Parisian and French Mo7ieys. 71 

needs to say, in addition, that the Cafe, as an institu- 
tion, is the crowning feature of Paris, if not its crowning 
charm ; and, so much said, the American, and eke the 
Englishman, can be trusted to find that variety repre- 
sented by an " American Bar '' and that other variety 
where Bass' Pale Ale is a specialty instead of a mere 
side-necessity. At the Cafes, more than anywhere else, 
newspapers will be read, cards, chess or dominoes 
played, conversations or flirtations indulged in, and 
half the political discussions carried on that periodically 
convert France into an arena. Without them, the 
city could not exist ; without them, who that had ever 
seen Paris once, would care to see it again } 

XXIX. 

Parisian and French Moneys. 

All French moneys, as most are aware, are reckoned 
in decimals, like the American, but with the difference 
that the denomination, which is to be divided into one 
hundred, is the franc, and worth not quite one-fifth 
of the American dollar.. As very many visitors to 
Paris, American as well as English, carry most of their 
money to that city in English gold, notes or drafts, it 
is well to be reminded of the relative value of each of 
the three currencies : 

FRENCH GOLD. 

FRENCH. ENGLISH. AMERICAN. 

5 Francs, £0. 4. o $0.95 

10 " (^ Napoleon) o. 8. o 1.90 

20 '* (Napoleon) 0.16. o 3.80 

100 '' (5 Napoleons) 4. o. o *. 15.20 



72 Going to Paris. 

FRENCH SILVER. 

20 Centimes, ^o. o, 2 004^ 

50 " ■ o. o. 5 , 0.09I- 

1 Franc, o. o.io 0.19 

2 ■" o I. 8 0.38 
5 " o. 4. o 095 

FRENCH COPPER. 

2 Sous, Z^O-O- I 0«02 

I " 0.0-2 °-°^ 

The French franc is divided into hundredths, as the 
American dollar into cents ; and all smaller calcula- 
tions, below the franc, are made in these hundredths, 
or •' ' centimes, " though there is no coin to represent 
that unit. It will be seen that the sou piece is 5 cen- 
times, the two-sous 10 centimes, the half-franc 50 cen- 
times ; and twenty-sous, or ten 2-sous pieces, make 
the franc. 

•It is well understood that English moneys pass cur- 
rent in France, and over most or all of the Continent, at 
their full English value — sometimes, indeed, bringing 
a small premium, American moneys are not known, 
or can only be handled at a great disadvantage. 

A considerable part of the French home-money is 
in notes on the Banque de France, at par with gold, 
reliable and convenient, but not advisable to carry 
away from that country. 

XXX. 

Places of Amusement of the Gay City. 
Paris is well understood to be the most lively and 
amusement-seeking of all cities on the globe ; and it 
follows that it has more places of amusement, even to 



Places of Amusement. 73 

the thousand inhabitants of its very large population, 
than any other. It has plenty of diversions, even by 
daylight ; but necessarily, to the body of visitors, the 
places of evening-amusement are of the most conse- 
quence. The list here rapidly set down, with a few 
words of description of the places and their perform- 
ances, comprises most of those of any reputation. 
A few of these, if visited at all, should be so visited by 
gentlemen alone ; but the names and characterizations 
will readily point out these to the reader. 

First among the amusement resorts of Paris, natu- 
rally comes 

The Grand Opera House. This splendid structure, 
in some regards the finest in the world, and in all 
most elegant and costly, stands on the Pl^ce de 
rOpera, near the junction of the Boulevards Capucines 
and Italiens, and almost immediately behind the 
Grand Hotel. It was several years in building, under 
the orders of Napoleon III., and the auspices of his 
managers, and opened on Tuesday evening, January 
5th, 1875, Undoubtedly it is the most magnificent 
building of its kind on the globe ; and its cost, of 
which the amount can never be known, has been 
simply enormous. Without and within, all the arts of 
the sculptor and the architect have been employed — 
sometimes with effects not too pleasing, but the whole 
result being magnificent. A complete history of lyric 
art is really supplied by the busts and other sculptures ; 
and some portions of the interior — especially the Grand 
Staircase — rival those of the costliest royal and imperial 
palaces.':- This house took, on opening, the placx; ror 



74 Going to Paris. 

merly occupied by the Academie de Musique, standing 
at the eastern end of the B. Italiens, on the Rue Le- 
pelletier. As the name indicates, the noble building 
IS devoted to grand opera, for which the evenings are 
Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays ; and it is scarcely 
necessary to say that the first artists of the world make 
their appearance here, at very brief intervals. ' 

The Opera Comique is on the Place Boildeau, Boule- 
vard des Italiens. It gives performances every even- 
ing ; and the scope of those performances is exceed- 
ingly wide and exceedingly popular. Most of the 
best light operas (not opera houffe) have been given 
here, and are given continually. The house is neatly 
built, without (re-erected in 1838 to 1840, afterburn- 
ing of the old house in 1838), and the decorations 
within are in excellent taste. Very many of the great 
singers have here made their appearance before the 
world ; and there is probably no place of amusement 
in Paris which it could worse spare. 

The Theatre des Italiens is located on the Place Ven- 
tadour, off the Boulevard des Italiens. It is very 
large, very handsome and commodious ; and ordi- 
narily its evenings are Tuesday, Thursday and Satur- 
day. Though a theatre, opera is given here very 
frequently and admirably ; and of the theatrical per- 
formances forming the alternative, it may be said that 
they are unexceptionable. 

The Theatre Lyrique is very near the north bank of the 
Seine, at the bottom of the Boulevard Sebastopol. ' Of 
it may be said nearly the same as of the Italiens. It is 
large, convenient, and exceptionally good in its per- 



The Tlieatres, y^ 

formances, chiefly opera in its lighter forms. It has a 
specialty of the best French music, representing many of 
the most popular operas of the modern composers to 
fine advantage. Performances every evening. 

XXXI. 

The Theatre Franqais, and Other Theatres. 

The Theatre Frcmgais, which has probably done 
more for dramatic art than any other house ever erect- 
ed, stands on the Rue Richelieu, corner of the Palais 
Royal. It claims, with good cause, to give the most 
perfect representations in the world, the merit-mark of 
having played successfully at it being sufficient for 
reputation. Most of the great plays of the best French 
authors have been produced here. The government 
allows this theatre a subvention of $50,000 a year, 
conditioned on the maintenance of the legitimate 
drama. The building was erected in 1786, and 
somewhat remodelled and much embellished in 1822. 
At the entrance to the vestibule are to be seen a statue 
of Voltaire, and figures of M'lle Mars and M'Ue 
Rachel as Tragedy and Comedy. Performances every 
evening. 

The Theatre dii Palais Royal is situated in the gal- 
lery of that Palace ; and it has achieved much and 
lively reputation by the performances of burlesques 
and extravaganzas given here with a vigor unknown 
elsewhere. "Amusement" is indeed the order, not 
of the day but the night, at the Palais Royal ; and 
it forms one of the pets of the Parisians as well as of 
many of their visitors. Performances every evening. ^' 



76 Going to Paris. 

The Varietes Theatre is on the Boulevard Montmartre. 
It quite shares with the Palais Royal the credit of vi- 
vacity ; and many of the comic operas of Offenbach, 
Herve, Lecocq, &c., have had their first representa- 
tions here. Among this number may be mentioned 
especially three which have since ''gone round the 
world " — Offenbach's ' ' Grande Duchesse, " ' ' Belle 
Helene" and ''Genevieve de Brabant." Some ex- 
cellent light dramas are also given at the Varieties ; 
and it was here that Sothern, in 1867, during the 
Great Exposition, instructed the Parisians in the 
character of Lord Dundreary. Performances every 
evening . 

The Theatre Gymnase is on the Boulevard Bonne 
Nouvelle. It is small, but admirably adapted for light 
dramas, vaudevilles and what may be called parlor- 
comedies, here given in great perfection. As a resort 
it is very fashionable, while with an attendance mark- 
edly blending all classes from prince to peasant. 
Every evening. 

The Chatelet Theatre (formerly the Theatre du Cir- 
que), is opposite the Theatre Lyrique, near the Seine, 
at the bottom of the Rue St. Denis. It has made a 
specialty of military and fancy pieces, with many span- 
gles and much colored fire, many ballets and transform- 
ation scenes, as in " Le Deluge, " an almost phenom- 
enal success in the line. Many of the "show-pieces" 
brought both to London and New York, have had 
their origin and first popularity at the Chatelet. Every 



The Theatres. J7 

The Theatre Porte Si. Martin displays its location by 
its name — on the Boulevard St. Martin, near the site 
of the old Porte. It has had largely the same special- 
ties as the Chatelet, in fairy pieces and extravaganzas, 
with much expense and splendor involved. Many of 
the importations to England and America have like- 
wise been from this theatre — ^among others the " Biche 
au Bois,'' well remembered at Niblo's Garden in New 
York, for its splendidly odd dresses. Every evening. 

The Theatre Ambigu Comique, also located on the 
Boulevard St, Martin, in spite of its merry name, makes 
much more of a specialty than that would indicate, of 
melodramas with the most blood-curdling effects. It 
has good playing, however, and to those who like that 
sharp pabulum must be a pleasant place of resort. 
Every evening. 

The Vaudeville Theatre, on the Boulevard Italiens, has 
been not long erected, in place of a house of the same 
name. It has all the conveniences known to modern 
art, is excellently appointed, and gives its specialties 
of light drama and comedy with rare perfection. Every 
evening. 

The Gaite Theatre^ on the Place des Arts et Metiers, 
Rue St. Martin, indulges in the same tricks with its 
name as the Ambigu Comique. It habitually plays, 
and plays well, dramas of the intense, mysterious and 
melo-dramatic order, to great acceptance. It is elegantly 
appointed. Every evening. 

The Odeon, on the Place d'Odeon, near the Luxem- 
bourg, is the "south-side"' rival of the Theatre Francais, 
and claims to present many of its tragedies, dramas 



78 Going to Pans. 

and comedies quite as well as its older and better- 
known opponent. It has, indeed, an excellent force 
of actors, with fine appointments, and deserves its re- 
putation. Performances every evening, during season 
from 1st September to ist June, and during extra- 
ordinary periods (no doubt 1878 one of them). 

Circuses. Cirque des Champs Elysees ; Cirque Na- 
tionale, B. des Filles du Calvaires. 

Other and Minor Houses. — The list already given in- 
cludes all the houses of the first class and most of the 
second. Of other theatres, however, attracting audi- 
ences continually and large houses at intervals, and 
giving performances sometimes suggested by their 
names, are the Delassements Comiques, Dejazet, Fo- 
lies-Marigny, Bouffes-Parisiens, Folies-Dramatiques, 
Beaumarchais, Chateau d'Eau, Athenee, Noveautes, 
Funambules, Menus-Plaisirs, Cluny, etc. Of a con- 
siderable number of these — indeed most of them — 
more may be said in praise of the vivacity than the 
strict regularity of their performances. From the ear- 
lier-named and better array, quite sufficient may be 
obtained in the way of evening entertainment. 

XXXII. 

Evening Resorts that are Not Theatres. 

First among the Parisian evening-resorts, outside of 
the line of the theatres, is that place to which, strictly, 
no one should go, but to which nearly every one does 
go, at one time or another : — 

The Jardin Mabille. This really marvellous garden, 
in which very different plants grow from those set out 



Evening Resorts. 79 

by the horticulturist, is on the Avenue Montaigne, not 
far from the Rond Point, in the Champs Elysees. It 
is a wilderness of shrub-and-tree bordered walks, hung 
with lights, with alcoves and inviting seats, and a 
music-stand in the middle of a dancing-space in the 
centre. It has very fine music, of a rapid character, 
from early evening until midnight ; and during the 
early hours it is simply a very pleasant promenade and 
lounge. Later in the evening, the dancing commences, 
shared in by no portion of the respectable promenaders, 
but carried on entirely by professionals or habitues. 
This dancing is composed of the wildest waltzes, the 
cancaji intermixed ; and much of it, while ludicrously 
amusing, is grossly indecent. Gentlemen very often 
visit it ; many gentlemen, of character and standing, 
take ladies there, of those dearest to them ; but they 
do not often publicly state that they have done so. 
Under no circumstances must a lady, visiting this place,^ 
allow herself to become separated from her escort, for 
even a minute ; and it is not too severe a rule to say 
that no lady should ever visit it, unless accompanied by hus- 
ba?id, father, or some person of years with some female 
member of his ow?i family. [This plain statement of the 
proprieties, is made here, from the knowledge that the 
Jardin Mabille will be visited, and the desire that the 
least possible harm may accrue from that special "frolic" 
in which so many of the eminently-respectable share.] 

Very much of the same character as the Jardin 
Mabille is 

The Theatre des Fleiirs (Jardin des Fleurs), at near 
the northern side of the Bois de Boulogne (perhaps 



8o Goi7ig to Paris, 

something more objectionable than the Mabille, in 
some of its features); and 

The Closerie des Lilas^ on the Boulevard St. Michel, 
on the south side of the Seine, near the Luxembourg, 
a too -favorite resort of students, grisettes, and yet 
more objectionable characters. [A very moderate 
acquaintance with either of the places named in this 
section, is quite sufficient, pro bono publico.'] 

The other most noteworthy Dancing-Gardens are 
the Chateau Rouge, Rue de Chateau Montmartre ; 
the Elysee Montmartre, Boulevard Rochechouart ; the 
Reine Blanche, Boulevard de Clichy ; and the Pre-aux- 
Clercs (Priests' Meadow), Rue de Bac, south side of 
the Seine. 

The Casino, Rue Cadet ; the Prade d'Hiver ; Salle 
Valentino, and others bearing in winter the same 
names given in last paragraph for the summer-season, 
are the winter hibernations of the Mabille, the Closerie 
de Lilas, and the others named. 

Among the most celebrated of the Cafes Chantantes 
or Concert Coffee- Houses, are L' Alcazar, on the Fau- 
bourg Poissoniere (where the celebrated Therese made 
her ambiguous reputation), with its summer-pendant 
or substitute, the Alcazar d'Ele, in the Champs Ely- 
sees ; the Baiaclan, Boulevard du Prince Eugene ; El 
Dorado, Boulevard de Strasbourg ; the Cafe des 
Aveugles, Palais Royal, etc. At the best of these, 
some good singing, but much more that has the simple 
recommendation of being very rattling and reckless, 
may be heard. 



Places and Objects to le Seen. 8i 

The Evening on the Boulevards is, after all, one of 
the most enjoyable as well as the most important 
things connected with a sojourn at Paris. Nowhere 
else, in the world, can be found so immense a variety 
of peoples and classes ; and nowhere else (as has 
before been intimated) can so much of blended 
amusement and instruction be found, as at the tables 
of the Cafes, and among the crowds of loungers and 
promenaders who make Paris literally a pleasant Babel 
from nightfall till 'long past midnight. The great 
shop-windows (already referred to, see XXIII.), have 
at such hours their crowning charm of richness and 
beauty ; the Cafes are in their full glory of light, at- 
tendance, and pleasant babble ; and the world seems, 
there and for the time, to have been made over and 
made perfect. In some of the well-known Passages — 
the P. des Panoramas, Geoffroy, des Princes, de r Opera, 
&c., all these features are intensified ; and away a 
short distance from the boulevards proper, those who 
choose to vary the scene can find the charm wearing 
new forms if not redoubled, at the moderate distance 
of the Palais Royal, where the Great Restaurants, the 
Cafes and the shops vie with those of the main thor- 
oughfares in all the characteristics of mundane en- 
chantment. 

XXXIII, 

Places and Objects to be Seen at and about Paris. 

At this stage, for convenience of reference, a com- 
prehensive list will becgiven, of -the places, objects and 
sights generally, necessary or proper to be seen in a 



82 Qomg to Paris. 

visit of any length to Paris. It will be seen (i) that 
Paris contains many more objects of interest, appealing 
to the average visitor, than any other city in the world — 
London not excepted; and (2) that, of course, any 
visitor, making only a brief stay, cannot hope to see 
them all understandingly. 

Asylum of Vincennes, Charenton. 

Asnieres, Pleasure resort, south side of the Seine. 

Arc de I'Etoile (Great Arch of Triumph). 

Artesian Well of Grenelle, Crenelle. 

Alcazar, The (famous concert saloon). Faubourg Pois- 
soniere. 

Alcazar d'Ete (concert garden). Champs Elysees. 

Bourse, The (Parisian Stock Exchange), Rue Vivienne. 

Bois de Boulogne, Creat Park of Paris. 

But|;es Chaumoni, Belleville. 

Bois, and Park and Donjon de Vincennes. 

Buttes Montmartre, Montmartre. 

Bank of France, Rue de la Valliere. 

College of France, Rue St. Jacques. 

Cascade de Longchamps, Bois de Boulogne. 

Champs Elysees, Place de la Concorde to Arc de TEtoile. 

Cours de Longchamps (Race-Ground of Paris), ad- 
joining Bois de Boulogne. 

Champ de Mars (and International Exposition). 

Concert Cafes (and Concerts) in the Champs Elysees. 

Chateau d'Eau, on the Boulevards. 

Conciergerie, Prison on the He de la Cite. 

Column in the Place Vendome, Rue de la Paix. 

Compeigne, Park, Hunting- forest, &c., in suburbs. 

Column of July, Place de la Bastille. 



Places and Objects to I)e Seen. 83 

Column of Victory, Place du Chatelet (old Prison). 

Column of the Crimean War, Square des Arts et 
Metiers. 

Corps Legislatif (Chamber of Deputies), Quai d'Orsay. 

Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, Rue St. Martin . 

Conservatory of Music, Rue de I'Echiquier and R. du 
Faubourg- Poissoniere. 

Cirque (circus) des Champs Elysees, Champs Elysees. 

Cirque National (circus), Boulevard des Filles du 
Calvaire. 

Closerie des Lilas, Boulevard St. Michel, near Luxem- 
bourg. 

Concert Gardens (miscellaneous) El Dorado, Boule- 
vard de Strasbourg ; Bataclan, Boulevard du Prince 
Eugene ; Cafe du Cadron, Rue Montmartre ; Cafe 
des Aveugles, Palais Royal, etc. 

Casino, The (dancing saloon). Rue Cadet. 

Dancing Saloons (miscellaneous), Elysee-Montmartre, 
Chateau Rouge, Reine Blanche, Pre-aux-Clercs, 
Tivoli-Wauxhall, Salon de Mars, Bal Moliere, etc. 

Elysee Napoleon, 55 Rue du Faubourg St. Honore 
near Champs Elysees. 

Ecole Militaire (Military School) near Champ de 
Mars. 

Ecole Polytechnique, Rue Descartes, near the Pantheon . 

Fontainebleau, Palace and Park, in suburbs. 

Fontaine St. Michel, B. St. Michel, south of the Seine. 

Fontaine des Innocens, Halles Centrales. 

Fontaine St. Sulpice, Place St. Sulpice. 

Fontaine du Chateau d'Eau, Chateau d'Eau. 

Fontaine de Medicis, Luxembourg Gardens* 



84 Qoing to Paris. 

Fontaine de la Victoire, Place du Chatelet. 

Fontaine Cuvier, Jardin des Plantes. 

Flower- Markets, at the Madeleine, Chateau d'Eau^, 

Tribunal of Commerce, &c. 
Gobelins Tapestry Manufactory, Rue MoufFetard. 
Grand Opera House, Place de i'Opera, back of Grand 

Hotel. 
Hotel Dieu, near Notre Dame, He de la Cite. 
Hotel Cluny, Boulevards St. Michel and St. Germain, 

.south side of the Seine. 
Hotel Drouot, Rue Drouot, frcm B. Italiens. 
Halles Centrales (Great Markets), Rues de Tonnelerie 

and de Rambuteau. 
Hotel des Invalides (and Tomb of Napoleon). 
Hospital Hotel Dieu, He de la Cite. 
Horse Market, Boulevard Montparnasse. 
Invalides, Hotel des, (Great ^Military Refuge). 
Imprimerie National (Gov't Printing-Office). 
Institute of France (and Library), Quai Conti and Rue 

de la Seine, 
jardin Mabille, Avenue Montaigne, Champs Elysees. 
Jardin des Fleurs (concerts and dancing), Bois de 

Boulogne. 
Jardin d'Acclimation, near Bois de Boulogne. 
Jardin des Plantes, on the Seine, Quai St. Bernard. 
Luxembourg, Palace, Picture-Galleries and Gardens. 
Louvre, Palace and Picture Galleries, &c. 
La Trinite (Church), Rue St. Lazare. 
Library, National, 58 Rue de Richelieu. 
Library of the Institute, Institute of France. 
Library of the City of Paris, Rue Culture St. Catharine. 



Places and Objects to he Seen. 85 

Library of Ste. Genevieve, Square of the Pantheon. 

Lunatic Asylum, Charenton. 

Madeleine, Church, Boulevard Madeleine. 

Malmaison (Josephine's Home), near Reuil. 

Morgue (Dead-House) , on He de la Cite. 

Monument Expiatoire (Chapel), Rue d'Anjou St. 
Honore. 

Museum of Artillery, 99 Place St. Thomas d'Aquin. 

Mint (La Monnaie), Quai de Conti. 

Museum of the Louvre, the Louvre. 

Museum of the Luxembourg, 23 Rue Vaugirard. 

Museum of Natural History, Jardin des Plantes. 

Museum of Moneys, the Mint, Quai de Conti. 

Notre Dame (Cathedral), on He de la Cite. 

Notre Dame des Champs (Church), Rue St. Martin. 

Notre Dame des Victoires (Church), Rue des Petits 
Peres . 

Obelisk of Luxor (Louqsor), Place de la Concorde. 

Observatory (Astronomical), south side of the Seine, 
near B. Montparnasse. 

Palais des Thermes (adjoining Hotel Cluny). 

Pantheon (Church of Ste. Genevieve), near Rue St= 
Jacques, south side of the Seine. 

Place de la Bastille, from Rue Rivoli by Rue St. 
Antoine. 

Place Vendome (and Column), Rue de la Paix. 

Place du Carrousel, and Arch, adjoining Tuilleries. 

Place de la Concorde Obelisk, Fountains and Mon- 
uments. 

Palais d'Industrie, Champs Elysees. 

Porte St. Denis, on the Boulevard of same name. 



86 troing to Paris. 

Place de la Hotel de Ville (Palace burned), on the 

Seine. 
Palace of Justice, Boulevard du Palais, He de la Cite. 
Pierrefitte, royal resort, in the suburbs. 
Pierrefonds, royal resort, in the suburbs. 
Palais Royal, Place du Palais Royal, near the Seine. 
Place du Trone, end of Boulevard Mazas. 
Pare Monceaux, on the Boulevard de Courcelles. 
Pere la Chaise, great Cemetery of Paris. 
Place du Temple, Rue du Temple. 
Palais Bourbon (Palais du Corps Legislatif), Quai 

d'Orsay. 
Palace of the Fine Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte. 
Place de Greve (Place de la Hotel de Ville). 
Palace of the Elysee (Elysee Napoleon), Rue Faubourg 

St. Honore. 
Palace of the Tuilleries (partially ruins — burned) . 
Palace of the Legion of Honor (burned — being rebuilt) 

Quai d'Orsay. 
Rueil (old residerce of Richelieu), in suburbs. 
Rambouillet, old royal resort, in suburbs. 
St. Denis, Royal Abbey Church, and Monuments, in 

the suburbs. 
Sevres, Porcelain Manufactory, &c.^ in the suburbs. 
St. Germain, royal residence, in the suburbs. 
St. Cloud, Park and Ruins of Palace, in the suburbs. 
St. Germain TAuxerrois (Church), near Place du 

Chatelet. 
St. Roch (Church), Rue St. Honore. 
St. Sulpice (Church), near Rue de Vaugirard, south 

side. 



Places and Objects to le Seen, 87 

Sainte Clothilde (Church), Place Bellechasse. 

St. Germain des Pres (Church), Rue Bonaparte. 

St. Eustache (Church), Rue Montmartre. 

St. Vincent de Paul (Church), Place Lafayette. 

St. Etienne du Mont (Church), south-side, near the 

Pantheon. 
St. Leu (Church), Boulevard de Sebastopol. 
St. Augustin (Church), Boulevard Malesherbes. 
St. Chapelle (Chapel), in the Palais de Justice. 
Sorbonne (College), Rue St. Jacques, south-side. 
Statue of Henry IV. , on the Pont Neuf. 
Statue of Louis XIV., Place des Victoires. 
Statue of Louis XIIL, Place Royale. 
Statue of Marshal Ney, near the Observatory. 
Statue of Marshal Moncey, Place Clichy. 
Statue of Marshal Desaix, Place Dauphine. 
Statue of Voltaire, Boulevard Voltaire. 
School of Law, Place du Pantheon. 
School for the Blind, 55 Boulevard des Invalides. 
School for Deaf and Dumb, 256 Rue St. Jacques. 
School of Mines, 60 Boulevard St. Michel. 
School of Fine Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte. 
Salle Valentino (Dancing Saloon), Rue St. Honor6. 
Theatre Fran9ais, Rue Richelieu. 
Tour St. Jacques, Boulevard de Sebastopol. 
Tuilleries, Gardens (Palace burned). 
Tomb of Napoleon (Hotel des Invalides). 
Tobacco Manufactory, Quai d'Orsay. 
Tribunal de Commerce, He de la Cit6. 
Versailles, Palace and Park, in suburbs. 



88 Goi7ig to Pans. 

XXXIV. 

Successions for Sight-seeing. 

Different accustomed visitors to Paris suggest various 
successions for visiting what objects of interest one may 
be able to reach, in the long succession lately named, 
with least possible waste of time and labor. For those 
staying long in the city, any such care is of course not 
so imperatively necessary as for those making hasty 
visits ; yet even they may find their account in system- 
atizing their daily rounds, and when the array is pretty 
well exhausted, enjoying the leisure of rest or slow 
motion thus obtained. 

A considerable number of experiments with relation 
to the division of time, has proved that the following 
succession, for one week of visit, is advantageous as to 
time, labor and expenditure, in seeing the most im- 
portant objects. 

First Day. — The Seine, its Bridges, Quais, Boats, 
etc. Views of the He de la Cite, and He St. Louis, 
without examining any of the buildings. The Tuille- 
ries Gardens, with views of the ruins of the Palace. 
The Place de la Concorde, with the Obelisk of Luxor, 
other Monuments, Fountains, etc. Palace of the Ely- 
see. The Champs Elysees, with the Arc de TEtoile. 
Returning, the Column in the Place Vendome. The 
Church of the Madeleine. Evening on the Boulevards. 
All this day, on foot, if in reasonable youth and 
health. 

'Second Day. — This day, by cab, most or all of the 
day. The Bourse. The Palais Royal. Tour St. Jac- 



Successions for Sight 'Seeing. 89 

ques. St. Germain TAuxerrois. St. Roch, St. Eus- 
tache. The Halles Centrales, The Conciergerie, on 
the He de la Cite. Notre Dame. The Morgue (if de- 
sired). The Palace of Justice. Place de la Hotel de 
Ville (Place de Greve). Place de la Bastille, with the 
Column of July. Cemetery of Pere la Chaise. Early 
evening at the Alcazar d'Ete, and later at the Jardin 
Mabiile. 

T/ii'rd Day. — This day, again, by cab. Hotel Cluny, 
and Palace des Thermes. The Pantheon. Church of 
St. Etienne du Mont. Palace of the Luxembourg, 
and Gardens. Champ de Mars. Hotel and Dome 
of the Invalides, with the Tomb of Napoleon. Arte- 
sian Well of Grenelle. Corps Legislatif. Evening, at 
the Grand Opera, Theatre Fran9ais, or some other 
Theatre. 

Fourth Day. — Open carriage. By the Champs Ely- 
sees and the Arc de I'Etoile, to the Bois de Boulogne, 
Cascade and Cours de Longchamps, St. Cloud and 
Sevres, to Versailles, its Galleries, Park, Fountains, 
&c . Evening of rest, or at any of the Theatres. 

Fifth Day, — Open carriage. The Abbey Church 
of St. Denis (six miles from Paris). On return, the 
Conservatory of Arts and Trades ; the Mint (Hotel 
des Monnaies); the Gobelin Tapestry Manufactory; 
School of Fine Arts ; or Museum of Artillery. Even- 
ing at command. 

Sixth Day. — All this day at the Louvre, and in 
examination of its Picture Galleries and other rooms 
and collections of interest. Evening at command 



90 Going to Paris. 

Seventh Day. — By Lyons Railway to Palace and 
Park of Fontainebleau, and the Forest of same name. 
All day there, and evening return. 

[Note, — The foregoing succession, or indeed any 
that can be named, may require alteration in the 
arrangement of the special days, with reference to the 
following table of days and hours when some of the 
places can only be visited. ] 

XXXV. 

Table of Days and Hours for Visia:iNG Certain 
Buildings and Exhibitions, 

Louvre. Every day except Monday, lo to 4. Mu- 
seum of Paintings, for study, every day. Free. 

Luxembourg. Every day, except Monday, 10 to 4. 
Free. 

Palais Royal. Every day. Free. 

Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers. Daily, except Wed- 
nesday and Friday, 10 to 4. Sunday and Thursday 
free. Other days, 1 franc. 

Museum of Artillery. Thursday, 12 to 4. Free. , 

Conservatory 0/ Music . Daily, 12 to 4. Free. 

Government Printing Office. Thursday at 2 . Order. 

Mint. Thursday and Friday, 12 to 3. Free. To 
visit the workshops, order from a Director. 

Observatory. Saturday, 2^ to 4. Free tickets, ob- 
tained at the Observatory. 

Gobelin Tapestry Manufactory. Wednesday and Satur- 
day, 2 to 4. Free. 

Pantheon. Daily. Free. Fee to dome and crypt. 



Days and Hours for Visiting. 91 

Pere la Chaise. Daily, Free. 

School of Fi7ie Arts. Daily, 10 to 2. Free to those 
having passports or tickets from the Direction. 

Si. Chapelle. Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and 
Sunday, 11 to 5. Free. 

Hotel de Ville (Place de). Daily, any hour. 

Hotel des Invalides , Daily, except Sunday, 12 to 4. 

Tomb of Napoleon (Hotel des Invalides). Monday 
and Thursday, 12 to 3. Free. 

Jar din des Plantes. Daily. Free. Museum, Tues- 
day, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday, free. Monday, 
Wednesday and Friday, order. 

Hotel Cluny. Daily, except Monday, 11 to 4- Fee. 
To those having passports, free. 

Bourse, Every day, 10 to 4. Free. Best change 
hours, I to 2\. 

Madeleine. Daily. Free. 

Notre Dame. Daily. Free. 

Versailles. Every day, except Monday, 12 to 4. The 
Trianon on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, 12 to 5. 

Sefvres Porcelain Manufactory. Monday, Thursday 
and Saturday, 11 to 3. Free. 

Fontainehleau. Everyday, except Sunday, 12 to 4- 
Free. 

Compeigne. Every day, except Monday, 12 to 4. 
Free. 

Hotel Dieu. Patients may be visited, Thursday and 
Sunday, 12 to 3. Asylum, every day. 

Asylum of Vincennes. Patients may be visited, Mon- 
day, Thursday and Sunday, 12 to 4. Asylum, every- 
day. 



92 Going to Paris. 

Library of City of Paris. Every day, except Sun- 
day, lo to 4. 

Library National. Every day, except holidays, 10 
to 4. 

Library of the Sorbonne. Daily, except holidays. 

LAbrary of the far din des Plantes. Daily, 10 to 3. 

Tobacco Manufactory. Daily. Free, nder restric- 
tions. 

Corps Legislatif Daily, 8 to 3. Free. 

XXXVl. 

Other Successions for Sight-seeing. 

A very excellent authority on seeing Paris and its 
vicinity, recommends the follovi^ing as the most advis- 
able succession for a week to nine days, giving the 
special days of the week comprised. 

Sunday. Train for Versailles, or Du Lorin's coaches. 
For that day, St. Cloud, Sevres and Versailles. 

Monday. The Place Vendome; Church of St. Roch; 
Tuilleries Gardens ; Place de la Concorde ; Corps Leg - 
islatif; Ste. Clothilde ; Invalides and Tomb of Na- 
poleon ; Artesian Well of Crenelle ; Military School ; 
Champ de Mars. This on foot or by cab. Then by 
carriage from the Trocadero, by the Arc de TEtoile, to 
and through the Bois de Boulogne. The evening at 
the Jardin Mabille, or a discretion. 

Tuesday. Train to Fontainebleau, visit the Palace, 
Park and Forest. Return to Paris by train leaving at 
about 7. 30. Evening at will. 

Wednesday. Special walking day. Boulevard Se- 
bastopol : Church of St. Leu ; Fountain of the Inno- 



other Successions for Sight -.seeing. 93 

cents ; Halles Centrales ; St. Eustache ; St. Germain 
TAuxerrois ; Pont Neuf ; Conciergerie ; Palais de Jus- 
tice; St. Chapelle ; Notre Dame ; Morgue ; Halle aux 
Vins; Jardin des Plantes ; Palais Royal. Evening at 
will, with a suggestion of the Gaite Theatre. 

Thursday. Mostly by cab. Conservatoire des Arts 
et Metiers ; Tour St. Jacques ; Hotel de Ville ; Na- 
tional Library and Archives ; Market and Square of 
the Temple ; Bastille ; Pere la Chaise ; return by Bou- 
levard Prince Eugene. Evening at will. 

Friday. The Louvre, all day until 4 P. M. Drive 
through the Bois de Boulogne, returning by the Pare 
Monceaux ; Churches of St. Augustin and La Trinite. 
Grand Opera in the evening. 

Saturday. Fountain St. Michel ; Hotel de Cluny 
and Palais des Thermos ; Luxembourg ; Observatory ; 
Pantheon ; Library of St. Genevieve ; St. Etienne du 
Mont; Ecole Polytechnique ; Sorbonne ; Tobacco 
Manufactory ; Drive to the Buttes Chaumont. In the 
evening an hour at the Alcazar d'Ete, and remainder 
at will. 

Sunday and Monday. In these two days can be vis- 
ited (making nine days in all), Vincennes ; Cemetery 
of Montmartre ; St. Denis ; Malmaison and Reuil ; 
Compeigne, Pierrefonds and Meudon, 

[For a longer stay in Paris than that indicated either 
in XXXIV. or XXXVL, necessarily many additional 
features of the ''fair city" will present themselves; 
and with that additional time at disposal^ policy would 
dictate the separating of these days of special sight- 
seeing, by days of comparative quiet betv/een. Witli 



94 Going to Paris. 

an Exposition to visit, liowever, such a division will 
take care of itself; and in any season there cannot be 
much difficulty, with the hints and successions here given, 
in ** seeing " Paris to at least fair advantage.] 

XXXVII. 

The Louvre, (Palace). 

First among the objects of interest in Paris, is the 
Palace of the Louvre, not alone or principally on its 
own account, but for the almost matchless collection 
of objects of curiosity, and the quite matchless collec- 
tion of pictures by the artists of all lands and all ages, 
with which it has been literally filled within the last 
century. 

'J'he Louvre stands beside the Quai of the same name, 
on the north side of the Seine, nearly opposite but a 
little below the He de la Cite. On the other side runs the 
noble Rue Rivoli. It is, as a whole, a Palace of very 
large extent, reasonably effective in architecture (a part 
ofit, ^he Old Louvre, considered a very fine example 
of the French Renaissance), and has many features 
commanding attention, from the ornamentation shown 
and the names involved. A castle is said to have stood 
in the same place as a part of it, built by Philip Augus- 
tus, about 1215 ; and it is known to have been fitted 
up as a royal residence, and enclosed, by Charles V., 
about 1370. But all the old buildings were renioved 
by Francis I., who is said to have laid the foundations 
of the present Old Louvre about 1^41. The sculptures 
of the pediments, of this portion, are credited to Paul 
Pounce, and those of the bulls-eyes to the celebrated 



The Louvre, {Palace). 95 

Jean Goujon. This part of the building was completed 
in the reign of Henri II., and widened towards the Seine. 
It was occupied by Catharine de Medicis, and her son 
Charles IX., about 1570. In 1572, Henry of Navarre 
(Henri Quatre) was married to Marguerite of Valois, 
within it. Here it is said that Charles IX., only a few 
days later, gave the signal for the Massacre of St. Bar- 
tholemew. That part of the Palace called the " Grand 
Gallery," and connecting it with the Tuilleries, was be- 
gun by Henry IV.. about 1600, and completed by 
Louis XIII., his son, who proposed to complete the 
great square to be formed by the two buildings. The 
north and east sides of the connection were supplied by 
Louis XIV., about 1685, and the east wing erected by 
him. The unfinished work, neglected by the suc- 
ceeding monarchs, was resumed by Napoleon I., who 
restored and completed the Court, and made many 
improvements in the interior. The completion of what 
is called the New Louvre, was commenced by the late 
Emperor, Napoleon III., in 1851, and completed by the 
architects Visanti and Lefluel in 1856, at the enormous 
cost of 75 millions of francs or I? 1 5,000,000. The whole 
Palace covers a space of about 42 acres, and is justly 
reckoned one of the most imposing piles in the world. 
The large Court in the centre of .the Nev/ Louvre, is 
called the Place Napoleon. The New Louvre is really 
two parallel wings, each 240 yards in length, reaching 
from the Old Louvre to the Place du Carrousel and 
the line formerly occupied by the (burned) Tuilleries. 
Along the whole of this extends Corinthian colonnades ; 
and over the columns are no less than 86 statues of ceie- 



96 Going to Paris. 

brated Frenchmen ; while on the balustrade of the attic 
are 64 allegorical groups. This part of the New Louvre 
has six domes, matching those of the Old, and profusely 
decorated. 

As to the origin of the name of the Louvre, there is not 
so much certainty as that of the designation of the Tuil- 
leries, derived from a tile-yard once in use on the spot. 
One allegation is that the first erection was a hunting- 
lodge, in the midst of a forest called the " Lupara," or 
" Wolvery," easily changed into " Louverie " and thus 
'* Louvre." Leaving this question of doubtful nomen- 
clature, a much more interesting study will be found 
within the vast pile, providentially not destroyed, 
though a part of it damaged, by the mad rage of the 
Commune, in the destruction of the Tuilleries, May, 
1871. 

XXXVIIT. 

Galleries and Works of Art, in the Louvre. 

The New Louvre is principal y occupied as govern- 
ment offices (Ministry of Finance, etc.), except a por- 
tion of the south wing. That part of the north wing 
facing the Place da Palais Royal, contained the great 
Louvre Library of 90,000 volumes and many valuable 
Mss,, destroyed in May, 1871. 

It is within the Old Louvre that the choicest gems 
of art in French^possession are gathered, and they have 
found a lodgment there since 1793. The collection fills 
the enormous number of 140 saloons, v/ith an aggregate 
v^alking length of nearly two miles. To see all or most 
of them to advantage, the best hours are those soon after 



Galleries and Works of Art, in the Louvre. gj 

opening (g A. M. in summer; lo A. M- in winter), as 
the crowd is usually large in the afternoon, especially in 
the great picture galleries. Any one unacquainted with 
the collection and with French, can easily find and engage 
a guide or cicerone, always to be found under the por- 
ticos, and speaking nearly all languages. Catalogues can 
be procured at the entrance of each collection, contain- 
ing much information, but sadly out of order as to num- 
bers. As already recommended^ those itnfamiliar with 
the Louvre and its collections, will do far better under 
guidance than wiihout. 

There is neither space nor necessity, here, to do more 
than state the general features of the collection, and 
point out those spots in which those master-works can be 
found, absolutely indispensable to see and at least study 
briefly. 

On the Ground Floor may be found an immense 
gathering of the sculptures of all countries and ages, 
from the Egyptians, Assyrians, and Greeks down to 
modern times ; and an immense collection of En- 
gravings. 

On the First-Floor are to be found most of the Pic- 
tures, Drawings, Antique Bronzes, the three Museums 
called the Musees de la Renaissance, Campagna and 
Americain, and the Collection Lenoir. 

The Second Floor has three rooms supplementary 
to the picture galleries, containing some valuable and 
many merely odd Flemish and Dutch pictures ; the 
Marine and Ethnographic Museums, and the Chinese 
Museum (the latter never opened until i o'clock P. M.) 



98 Going to Paris. 

Many persons, who even spend some time at the 
Louvre, entirely ignore the sculptures of the Ground 
Floor. To do so is to lose immense collections of 
Egyptian and Assyrian antiquities in stone, closely ap- 
proaching the matchless array in the British Museum. 
It w^ill be also losing, in 1878, the Algerian Collection, 
w^ith many Roman and Carthaginian relics of great 
value and rarity. But (and even of more consequence) 
it will be to lose one of the noblest collections of por- 
trait-busts, statues, groups and other works of the most 
celebrated modern sculptors, French and other, to be 
found out of Florence, besides the Venus of Falerone 
(considered the rival of the Venus of Milo), and a 
world of other and most interesting marbles. 

In the Musee des Gravures, on this floor, are to be 
seen (and bought, if wished for) engravings from many 
of the best pictures in the public galleries. And before 
leaving this floor, the Salle des Caryatides should be 
visited, as the hall in which was celebrated the marriage 
of Henry IV, (Henri Quatre), with Marguerite de Va- 
lois ; the hall where the body of that monarch was laid 
after his murder ; where the League held their meet- 
ings ; where the Duke of Guise Jiung four of its mem- 
bers in 1594; and where Moliere had a theatre, in 
1659, acting in his own immortal comedies. 

In dealing with the First Floor of the Louvre, we 
cannot even attempt to enumerate the galleries. All that 
can or need be done, is to mention some of the princi- 
pal apartments, containing the most notable works or 
collections, and to call attention to a few of the objects 
absolutely indispensable. 



Gdllei'ics and Worhs of Art, i7i the Louvre 99 

The Salon Carre may be called, artistically, the 
.Heart of the Louvre. It contains the gems of the 
"vvhoie collection, in confusing number and untold 
value. xA-mong the gems of the gems, are the follow- 
ing : No. 546 bis, Murillo's "Immaculate Concep- 
tion," perhaps the noblest work in the world of art, 
brought from Spain by Marshal Soult, and rated as be- 
yond price, (Many engravings of this matchless picture 
have been made and sent abroad, only faintly convey- 
jngits charm). No. 171, '^Titian and his Mistress," by 
Titian. No. 460, ^'Helena Fourment, wife of Rubens 
-■and two children," by Rubens, No. 375, ^'La Belle 
Jardiniere," by Titian. No. 121, "La Femme Hydro- 
pique," by Gerard Douw (considered his master -piece). 
No. 107, "The Disciples at Emmaus," by Paul Vero- 
nese. No. 465, "Entombment of Christ,^' by Titian, 
No. 28, "Sleeping Antiope," by Corregio. No. 376, 
'*' Virgin, Sleeping Jesus and St. John," by Raphael^ 
No. 377, "Holy Family," by Raphael. No. 140, 
■"Dead Christ," by Annibale Caracci. No. 382, "St. 
Michael Conquering Satan," by Raphael. No. 103, 
"'The Marriage of Cana," (largest picture in the col- 
lection), by Paul Veronese. No. 433, "Tomyris," by 
Rubens. No. 44, ''Rustic Concert," by Giorgione. 
No. 211, "Anne of Cleves," by Hans Holbein. No. 
:229, ''Landscape," by Claude Lorraine. No. 228, 
■^'Landing Place/' by the same. No. 453, "Diogenes 
and his Goblet," by Nicholas Poussin. No. 548, 
"Holy Family," by Murillo. No. 337, "Dejanira and 
.Nessus," by Guide. 



loo Going to Paris. 

In leaving this gallery it is only necessary to say, ad- 
ditionally, that there are gems by Caravaggio, Rem- 
brandt, Sebastian del Piombo, Vandyck, Ghirlandajo, 
Bordone, Philip de Champagne, Jouvenet, Leonardo da- 
Vinci, Andrea del Sarto, Luine, etc., and that tv&Yj 
picture deserves the place it occupies and the careful 
examinations of the visitor who can allow himself 
that privilege. 

XXXIX. 

Galleries and Works of Art in the LouvrH. (con- 
tinued.) 

Next in importance to the Salon Carre^ and very 
much larger, is the Grande Galerie. This immense 
apartment is nearly 300 yards in length, on the side 
of the building next the Seine, and contains most of 
the works of th'=* Italian, German, Dutch and Flemish^ 
schools. Among, the leading features of the collec- 
tion, here, are tkv? following specialties: No. 473,. 
'^L'Homme au Gant,'" by Titian. No. 88, "Vertum- 
nus and Pomona," b) Bordone. Nos. 418 and 419^ 
"The Circumcision," '"'Holy Family," by Gerofalo. 
No. 486, "Last Supper," after Leonardo da Vinci. No. 
468, "Venus del Pardo," bf Titian. No. 483, "La 
Belle Feriniere," by da Vinci. No. 470, ^'Alfonso d'Ava- 
los," by Titian. No. 469, "Francis I. of France," by Ti- 
tian. No. 277,"The Nativity," by the elder P-dma (Ital- 
ian)v No. 100, "Madonna and Child, with St. Cathar- 
ine," by Paul Veronese. No. 347, "David Killing Go- 
liah," by Daniele de Volterra. No. 136, "La Vierge aux; 
Cerises," by Annibale Caracci. No. 492, "'Madonna Ap^ 



Galhries and Works of Art, in ilie Louvre, loi 

pearing to St. Anthony," by Domenichino. No. 372, 
*'Madonna and Child," by Sassoferrato. No. 1 13, ^'Ma- 
donna della Salute, at Venice," by Canaletto. No. 336, 
'•'Hercules and Achelous/' by Guido. No. 46, "Lot and 
ihis Daughters," by Guercino. No. 555, "The Infanta 
Margaretha Theresa," by Velasquez. No. 210, "Sir 
Thomas More," by Hans Holbein. Nos. 213, 206 
and 207, 'Tortraits," by Holbein, the Younger. No. 
456, ^'Johanna of Austria," by Rubens. Nos, 434 to 
.444, and 445 to 454, ''Historical Portraits," by Ru- 
bens, (forming one of the most remarkable series of his 
works). No. 414, "Portrait," (himself) by Rembrandt. 
No. 5 1 2, "The Prodigal Son," by Teniers, the Younger. 
No. 518, "Interior of a Tavern," by the same. No. 295 
{very small), "The Chemist," by Quentin Matsys. No. 
143, "'Children of Charles I. of England," by Antonio 
Van Dyck. No. 416, "Old Man," by Rembrandt. 
No. 130, "Portrait," (himself,) by Gerard Douw. No. 
567, "Departure for the Hunt," by Wouvermans. No. 
376, "Travellers Halting at a Tavern," by Van Os- 
tade. No- 18, "Landscape and Cattle," by Berghem. 
Nos. jj and 78, "Christ Celebrating the Passover," 
and "Christ on the Cross," by Philip de Champagne. 
No. 572, "Cavalry Charge," by Wouvermans. No. 
399, "Horses Harnessed," by Paul Potter. No. 292, 
''Vegetable Market at Amsterdam," by Quentin Matsvs. 
No. 470, "The Forest," by Ruysdael. No. 106, 
"Promenade," by Cuyp. No„ 256, "Concert," by. 
Jordaens. No. 500, "Flemish Tavern Feast," by Jan 
Steen. 



102 Goinfi to Paris. 

Only so many of the wilderness of pictures in thi^ 
gallery have been mentioned, as to give some idea of 
their wonderful variety as works and as to origin. 
Days might be consumed in seeing them all, even has- 
tily. 

In the French Galleries (three rooms), are the 
great bulk of French works, before Louis XIV.; and in. 
a fourth room, in connection, are views of fifteen sea- 
ports of France, by the great marine painter, Joseph 
Vernet. 

Other picture galleries, of importance, are the Col- 
lection La Caze, with many master-pieces ; the Salle 
Henri 11. , with some notable large pictures ; the Salle 
des Sept Chemin'ees, with some noble battle-pieces, and 
David's celebrated " Sabines," etc., etc. The Salle 
des Bijoux'\\2i?, a great treasury of mediaeval ornaments,, 
weapons, rings, seals, &c. 

The Galerie d' Apollon contains many historical' 
objects, warmly appealing to the romantic visitor., 
Among this really wonderful gathering, in a hall of 
which the ceiling and side decorations are considered 
the finest in the world, from the pencils of Delacroix 
(the ceilings, " Apollo's Victory over the Python,'" 
giving name to the room), Le Brun, Muller, &c., are 
the Casket of Anne of Austria ; Coronation Crown of 
Louis XV.; Charlemagne Crown worn by Napoleon I. 
at his coronation; Armour of Henry II.; Sword and 
Spurs of Charlemagne, and his Sceptre; Clasp of St. 
Louis' cloak; Armour of Charles IX.; Buckler of 
Henry II.; Breviary of Catherine de Medicis ; Candle- 
stick and Mirror of Marie de Medicis ; royal portraits 



Galler'ies and Works of Art, in the Louvre, 103 

in enamel ; and a wilderness of other royal and historic 
curiosities. 

In the Musee des Souvei'ains have been for many 
years shown some of the objects above designated as in 
the Apollo Gallery, no doubt some changes in ar- 
rangement having been rendered necessary since 1871, 
and possibly, some destructions sustained in that year. 
Besides those named, have been shown a shoe of Marie 
Antoinette; arm-chair of King Dagobert; and many 
other relics. Of more consequence is it to know that in 
the Salle de' /' Empereur, a part of the Musee des 
Souverains, a thousand admirers of the great unfor- 
tunate have enjoyed the sad privilege of looking at 
many of the most touching memorials of the great Em- 
peror, Napoleon I., the clothes he wore on state occa- 
sions, his sword when First Consul, his military chest, 
his hr-ts of 1815 and of St. Helena; the boy uniform 
of his son, the Duke of Reichstadt, &c. It is to be 
hoped that most or all those relics remain, and remain 
open to public view. 

In the Musee Campagna, Musee des Antiquties 
Musee de la Renaissance, Musee Americain (abori- 
ginal relics, &c.), may be found many objects of 
interest, by those who have leisure to pursue them. In 
the Salles Supplemtaires, on the second floor, are 
many noble pictures, by Delaroche, Delacroix, Ingres, 
Rousseau, Horace Vernet, Troyon and others, of the 
modern French and Flemish Schools. 

In the Musee de Marine, also on the second floor, 
are gathered a world of models and curiosities, con- 
nected with ships and navigation ; and in one of the 



1 04 Going io Paris. 

rooms connected^ with the Chinese Museum (the 
fourth), may be found the Lesseps collection of oojects 
connected with the Suez Canal, with a relief plan of 
that canal, and many curiosities. 

There being many modes and directions of entering 
the Louvre and pursuing its collections, any directions 
on that point would be ineifectual against the force of 
accident. Guidance, as to points of admission, is 
easily secured ; and the " order of going " is really of 
little consequence. When it is open (which is not al- 
ways), a favorite point of entry is the Paviiio?i Denon, 
in the Place Napoleon III.; and from this the sight seeing 
usually begins and follows with the Salle Ronde, the 
Galerie d' Apollon, the Salon Carre, Galerie de Sept 
Maitres, Grand Galerie, &c. The more frequent en- 
trance is by the Pavilion de 1' Horloge, from which the 
sight-seeing commences with the collection La Caze. 

XL. 
The Tuilleries, (Burned Palace) and Gardens. 

One of the most notable spots in Paris, if not the most 
notable, is that once occupied by the Palace of the 
Tuilleries, and now occupied by the high empty walls 
thereof, on the north side of the Seine, immediately 
west of the Louvre, and adjoining it on that side. The 
palace v/as burned by the Communists, in May, 1871, 
with some damage to the Louvre : why burned, per- 
haps the petroleurs and petroleuses did not themselves 
know, except that they wished to destroy something. 
Once destroyed, it is being only slowly rebuilt, and 
Paris will for some time remain the loser by the absence 



The Tuilleries, and Gardens. 105 

of the ruling power of France, whether king, emperor, 
or president. 

The old pile, thus destroyed, and of which only the 
walls remain, had a history notable enough to make 
even those walls worthy of regard. It was begun in 
1564, by Catharine de Medicis, on the site of a tile- 
yard, whence the name. The original architect was 
the great Philibert Delorme. Additions were made to 
it under different sovereigns, century after century ; but 
it was only In 1856, under the late Emperor, that the 
principal front towards the Gardens (west), began to 
acquire absolute beauty. Somewhat broken up and very 
irregular, it was still a stately pile, to those who saw it 
in and about 1867, when it was really in the blaze of its 
glory. 

The principal restorations, so far, have been on the 
north wing, which was entirely destroyed. The south 
•wing, re-erected by the Emperor, was only damaged. 
On this side was the Pavilion de Flore, The Pavilion 
de /' Horloge extended entirely across the centre-front? 
and contained the great hall, called the Salle des Mare- 
chaux, adorned with the portraits of the great French 
generals. The Throne Room, the Galene de Diane, 
and the Salon dit Premier Consul were adjacent; and 
the four apartments named were the scene of the great 
Court festivals— notably of the ^'Czar's Ball," one of 
the most splendid events in history, given on the night 
of June 10th, 1867, in the midst of the Exposition fes- 
tivities of that year. 

Without much history or interest preceding, the Tuil- 
leries, within the past century, has been four times the 



io6 Going to Paris. 

scene of the most frightful excesses of an infuriated mob, 
the last one only destroying it. On tne loth of August, 
1792, it witnessed the frightful storm and massacre of 
the French nobles and the Swiss Guards hy the popu- 
lace, nearly 900 of the latter falling at their posts, as> 
commemorated by Thorwaldsen's "'Lion of Lucerne,'* 
at that place in Switzerland. On the day following, 
Louis XVI. and his family were removed from it to the 
Temple, to come back no more. On the 29th Jub/, 
1830, the Palace was captured again, though with minor 
excesses, and Charles X- driven out, to make room for 
Louis Philippe. On the 24th of February, 1848, the 
Palace was again captured, and literallv sacked, by the 
mob, driving away Louis Philippe, burning the royal 
carriages in the yard, and the throne itself at the foot 
of the Column of July, in the Place de la Bastille. On 
the 22d and 23d of May, 1871, when the troops from 
Versailles had so far overcome the Communists as to 
have gained possession of the city, but before they could 
reach the Palace, it was set on fire by the incendiaries, 
and burned (with due pillage meanwhile), with the at- 
tempt to involve the Louvre in the same destruction. 

Up to this time there has not been any access to the 
ruins allowed to the public, though possibly the restora- 
tions may be so far completed, in 1878^ as to permit it. 

The Gardens of tlie TuiUerieSy'\mmQ^\z.x.€iy west and 
in the front of the Palace, are 780 yards in length (along 
the Seine) and 347 yards in width, as laid out by Le 
Notre, the celebrated gardener of Louis XIV. On 
the south and west there is a noble grove of large trees, 
the favorite resort of thousands, every day in the season. 



The Tuilleries, and Gardens. 107 

and the sward worn entirely away by the trampling feet. 
The favorite entrance is from the south or river side,, 
by an archway under the Terrasse du Bord d' Eau. 
Near this is entered upon the ''parterre " of lawns and 
flower-beds, very attractive, but by no means equal to 
either Kew or Versailles. The Allee des Grangers, a 
row of orange-trees in tubs, most of them very old, is one 
of the features of this part of the pleasure-ground. The 
other three sides of the gardens are bordered by terraces, 
commanding fine views. On the side next the Palace, 
are many statues and groups, principally in marble, and 
some of them injured during the excesses of 1871. Two 
Amphitheatres, called the Carres d' Atlante, designed 
by Robespierre, are at the right and left of the centre, 
intended as seats for floral games projected by that 
gentle person. At the west end of the grove is a large 
fountain, surrounded by four groups in marble, of the 
Nile ; the Rhine and Moselle ; the Rhone and Saone ^ 
and the Tiber. The entrance from the Place de la 
Concorde (perhaps most used of any), is called the 
Porte da Pont- Tournante, from a drawbridge formerly 
existing. The west side of the gardens is the great re- 
sort of nurse-maids and children, invalids, etc., from its 
sheltered position behind the grove j and the north side 
is the corresponding parade ground of all ages and con- 
ditions of the Parisians, for whom chairs are kept for 
hire at moderate rates. The grounds open to the 
public at a very early hour in the morning, and close in. 
the winter at 5 and in the summer at 9 P. M., the clos- 
ing being preceded by the warning beat of drum. 



io8 Going to Paris. 

Tsecessariiy, the Gardens of the Tuilleries have been 
the gathering place of the crowds, at one time and an- 
other, mustering to attack the Palace ; but perhaps no 
scene in which they have ever shared, is more certain 
to linger in the memory, than their appearance on the 
night of the "Czar's Ball," (before referred to), when 
two long lines of lights extended from the Palace, 
the whole length of the Place de la Concorde and the 
Champs Elysees to the Arc de 1' Etoile, and a mad crowd 
besieged the gates of the gardens, alternately jeering and 
threatening the decorated guests of the Emperor driv- 
ing in their carriages to that memorable festival. 

XLI. 

Napoleon's Triumphal Arches — Carrousel and 

DE l' Etoile. 

Between the Louvre and the Tuilleries, but much 
nearest to the latter, is a triumphal arch, erected by Na- 
poleon I. in the the arrogance of his success, — in con- 
nection with which may be briefly noted the other fa- 
mous Triumphal Arch to which his victories gave rise in 
Paris. The one adjoining the Tuilleries is called 

U Arc de Trioraphe du Carrousel. This triumphal 
monument stands on the Place du Carrousel, immedi- 
ately behind (eastward of) the Tuilleries. It derived 
the name from Louis XIV. having held a tournament 
there in 1 662, The ilrch is erected in imitation of those 
of Constantine and Severus, at Rome, is 47 feet in 
height, 63 feet in width, and 20 feet thick, with three 
archways in the length and one transverse. Owing to its 
position, it seems dwarfed and inconsiderable, however 



Napoleon's Triumphal Arches, 109 

large. Napoleon erected it in 1806, as a near memorial 
of his then recent victories, and put on the top of it 
the bronze horses carried away from the entrance of the 
Church of St. Marc at Venice. Those were restored to- 
Venice by the Allies, after Waterloo ; and in their 
place was supplied, in 1845, a chariot with four horses, 
bv Bosio. On the sides are marble relievos commemo- 
rating the battle of Austerlitz, taking of Ulm, peace of 
Tilsit, entry into Vienna, entry into Munich, and peace 
ofPresburg. There are also columns on the faqades^ 
with marble statues of the different arms of the French 
service, and three inscriptions on the front and sides, de- 
tailing the triumphs of the late campaigns most arro- 
gantly. Standing low, and shut in by two great Palaces, 
this triumphal arch has never been a pre-eminent suc- 
cess, however worth notice as a curiosity. Very differ- 
ent in position and effect, is 

VArc de Tnomphe de /' Etoile (the Arch of Tri- 
umph of the Star), standing on a commanding eleva- 
tion at the top of the Champs Elysees, and literally 
visible in every direction. It derives its name, not 
from any "star" in the architecture, which many visi- 
tors seek in vain, but from the supposed star formed by 
twelve boulevards^or avenues running out from it. This 
was commenced by Napoleon I., to commemorate, like 
that of the Carrousel, the victory of Austerlitz and the 
others of that wonderful campaign which left him tor the 
time the master of the Continent. It was not finished, 
however, until by Louis Philippe, in 1836, from the 
original designs by Chalgrin, in carrying out the plan 
of that monarch to keep France in memory of the great 
Emperor. 



sio Going to Paris. 

As finally completed, at a cost said to have exceeded 
ten millions of francs, it is considered to be the noblest 
jTiilitary or triumphal monument on the globe, far ex- 
celling even the arches of Imperial Rome. In height it 
is 160 feet, with a width of 146 feet and a depth of 72 
feet ; and the shape, like that of the Arch of Titus at 
Rome, from which the idea was taken, is that of a sim- 
ple arch of 95 feet in height by 46 in width, intersected 
by a transverse arch of 59 feet by 19 feet. The sculp- 
tures, which cover the front, back and sides, represent 
the glories of the French arms from the Revolution. 
Only a few of the more notable subjects may here be 
mentioned : ^' Obsequies of Gen. Marceau," by Le- 
maire; " Napoleon Crowned by the Goddess of Vic- 
tory," by Cortot; "Murat at Aboukir," by Seurre; "Pas- 
sage of the Bridge of Arcole," by Feucheres; "Resist- 
ance to the Invading Armies," by Etex; "Peace of 
1815," by Etex ; "Battle of Austerlitz," by Gechter; 
^^Battle of Jemappes," by Marochetti, etc. In addition to 
these, and a host of others, there are figures of Victory, 
on both sides, by Pradier ; and a series of 30 shields, 
■on the cornice, bear the names of diff'erent French vic- 
tories. 

On the vaulting of the cross-arch are inscribed the 
names of the great generals, nearly 400 in number, the 
names of those fallen in battle being underscored. In 
the coat-of-arms connected, the Gallic cock is shown in 
alternation with the Roman Eagle of Napoleon. It is 
understood that the top of this great arch has never been 
entirely finished, and that it will be still higher when the 
additional work is added. Some slight damage was done 



The Place de la Concorde. iii 

to the work during the cannonades of 1870-71, but this 
lias been entirely repaired, and is now undiscoverible. 
The arch is to be ascended by a spiral staircase of 261 
steps, entrance on the south side, and fee 25 centimes. 
The view from the Platform, at the top, is said to be 
magnificent, and it undoubtedly is the very best obtain- 
able from any one point in Paris or its neighborhood- 

XLII. 

The Place de la Concorde, and Obelisk of Luxor. 

The most charming of the public grounds of Paris, 
the Place dela Concorde, lies on the Seine, immediate- 
ly west of the Tuilleries Gardens, forming the division 
between them and the Champs Elysees. From the 
boulevards, at the Madeleine, it is reached in a very 
short walk down the Rue Royale. The square is some 
400 yards in length, by about 7,30 in width, and affords 
a fine view from its centre, of the Corps Legislatif on 
the further side of the Seine, the Tuilleries, the Avenue 
d.es Champs Elysees leading up to the i\rc de 1' Etoile, 
and that grand Arch itself at the end of the view west- 
ward. 

In the midst of the square, where once stood a statue 
of Louis XV. (the square then called the "Place 
Louis XV.") now stands the Obelisk of Luxor (to be 
more especially mentioned a little later.) On this spot, 
afterwards, in 1792, some derisive figures were erect- 
ed, and the square was re-named the "Place de la 
Revolution." On the same spot, on January 21st, 1793, 
the guillotine was erected, commencing with the decapi- 
tation of King Louis XVL on it; and here afterv/ard? 



112 Going to Paris. 

died Queen Marie Antoinette, the Duke of Orleans,. 
Madame Elizabeth^ sister of the dead king, Charlotte 
Corday, Brissot, Hebert, Camille Desmoulins, Dumas, 
St. Just, and many other, well-known persons; the 
number gathering so fast that up to May, 1795, up- 
wards of 2,800 victims had here met their fate. Af- 
terwards the guillotine was removed to the Place de 
la Greve (now the Place de la Hotel de Ville),, 
where nearly as many thousands perished as had here 
fallen hundreds. 

At the close of the eighteenth century, the name 
was changed to the '-'Place de la Concorde." In 
1814, on the restoration of the Bourbons, it again 
became the '' Place Louis XV." and in 1826, the 
'Tlace de Louis XVL", in memory of the monarch 
v/ho had died here. In 1830, on the accession of Louis 
Philippe, the name of the Place de la Concorde was 
again (and may we not hope, finally ?) given to it, and 
has since remained. 

The Obelisk of Luxor (French, '' Louqsor/') was 
brought hither in 1833-1836, at an expense of 2,000,- 
000 francs, from the Temple of Luxor, at Thebes, 
Upper Egypt. It is of red granite, with hieroglyphic 
inscriptions, not a little marred by the additions of 
gilded models of machinery used to remove it. It is 
beheved to be about 3,200 years old, or upwards, and 
is a noble ornament to this noted public ground. 

Two large and magnificent fountains, with figures^,, 
stand on the two sides of the Obelisk, and add beauty to 
the Place. In addition, around the Place are eight stone 
figures, representing the chief cities of France, Lille,, 



The Champs Elysees. . 113 

Strasbourg (now a French city no more,) Bordeaux, 
Nantes, Rouen, Brest, Lyons and Marseilles. Around 
the railing of the outsides are bronzed columns, with 
lamps, during the days of the empire, used to light 
the square on the night of Emperor's Day, August 15th, 
and then imparting a fairy splendor, as they did on the 
illuminations of the Exposition of 1867. 

Prussian and Russian troops bivouacked in the Place 
de la Concorde, in 1814, and English in 1815. A 
solemn service in m.emory of Louis XVL, was held 
here in April of the former year, in the presence of the 
Emperors Alexander of Russia, and Francis of Austria, 
follov/ed by a service of thanks for victory. Prussian 
troops again quartered here, and in the Champs Elysees, 
in March, 1871 ; and in May of the same year, a des- 
perate struggle took place between the French Govern- 
ment troops from Versailles, and the Communists. 

XLin. 

The Champs Elysees. 
Following up the line which we commenced at the 
Louvre, the next object of interest is that splendid 
shaded public-ground adjoining the Place de la Concorde 
on the west, the Champs Elysees (or '* Elysian 
Fields.") These fields are said to have been laid out 
by Marie de Medicis, queen and widow of Henry IV., in 
1616, and then planted with elms, lime trees, and much 
shrubbery, some of which they still retain.^ The length 
of the park covered by the. name, is nearly one and a 
half miles, from the Place de la Concorde to the Arc 
de 1' Etoile, and its width about half that distance. 



114 Going io Paris. 

The Champs Elysees, through which nearly all walk 
or drive who are on their way to the Arc de I'Etoile, 
to the Bois de Boulogne, to Sevres, Versailles, &c., is 
one of the most pleasing routes in existence. On both 
sides of the main avenue, the Avenue des Champs 
Elysees, running from the Place de la Concorde to the 
Arch, are many of the most desirable residences at or 
about Paris, and in no other place in the world does a 
corresponding succession of all classes pass the windows. 
The lower, or western end, is largely occupied by 
Cafes-chantantes ; there is a circus of reputation (the 
Cirque des Champs Elysees); and in the midst, at the 
Avenue Montaigne, is to be found the Hardin MabiUe 
(elsewhere freely spoken of ) In the evenings of summer, 
with the brilliant crowds of pedestrians, numberless car- 
riages, and flashing lines of lights, here, there and every- 
where, it may be said that the Champs Elysees are 
among the nearest of earthly places to a fairy land, what- 
ever of the earthly they may condone or conceal. 

At the eastern side of the Champs, not far above the 
Place de la Concorde, and on the Rue du Fanbourg St. 
Honore, is the Palace of the Elysee (elsewhere spoken 
of); and on the extreme western side, also near the 
Place de la Concorde, is the Palais d' Industrie, where 
all the French National Exhibitions have been held, 
except those on the Champ de Mars, and where Pic 
ture Exhibitions of the greatest interest and value are 
held every summer, besides many others representing 
the material wealth and artistic talent of one of th^ 
richest and most productive peoples on earth. 



Tlie Bois de Boulogne. 1 1 5 

XLIV. 

"The Bois de Boulogne, Longchamps, Etc. 

From the Place and Arc de I'Etoile, the short but 
^vide and beautiful Avenue du Bois de Boulogne (for- 
merly the Avenue de l^ Imperatrice) extends to the 
nearest entrance to ihc Great Park, the Porte Dauph- 
ine, or Dauphiny Gate. The Bois de Boulogne is in- 
deed the ^'Great Park" so designated, being among the 
largest and finest in the world, and one of the suburban 
features making Paris especially notable. It has an area 
of about 2,200 acres, mostly well wooded, and laid out 
in charmipg and well-kept drives and walks, with a care 
and taste demanding the highest admiration, and widi 
waters, chalets, a cascade, and every other feature of 
the grandest pleasure-resorts. Of the two great ave- 
nues crossing it, mention has already been made, in the 
Alice de Longchamps and the Allee de la Reine Mar- 
guerite, but there are scores of others, only less at- 
tractive. 

The Bois contains two lakcQ, the Lac Superieure 
and Lac Inferienre, the former nearly a mile in length 
and some 100 yards in width, and the latter one quar- 
ter of a mile in length and 50 to 60 yards in width. 
In the Lac Lnferieure are tv/o small islands, with ferry 
to them, and with service boats for hire. At the end 
of the Lac Superieure is the Butte Mortemart, an ele- 
vation commanding a fine view southward and west- 
v/ard, to Meudon, St. Cloud, etc. Near the western 
side of the park, on the great drive to Longchamps, is 
the Cascade de Longchamps^ an artificial waterfall of 
some size and great beauty, leaving the impression on 



n6 Going to Paris, 

most of the uninformed of being natural, and adding 
one of the handsomest details to the scene. Beyond, 
and at the extreme west, near the Seine, is the 
Hippodrome de Longchamjn, one of the favorite rac- 
ing-grounds of Paris, with a f^ne Coarse, stands, and 
all the appliances of such places of recreation. (Races 
at the Hippodrome take place three times a year, in. 
ordinary seasons — in the spring, summer, and autumn ; 
always freely announced in advance. No doubt during 
1878 they will be exceptionally frequent). It is 
along the -Avenue de Longchamps, and ending at the 
Hippodrome, that in Passion Week, every year, takes 
place the "Promenade de Longchamps," a sort of car- 
nival procession, reminding one of the "Corsos"' of the 
Italian cities, and full of interest and oddity. 

Several Cafes of excellence may be found in the Bois^ 
and they are very largely attended at riding hours. 
One of the most notable of these is the Restaurant de la 
Cascade, not far from the Cascade le Longchamps ; and 
another is a Swiss Chalet on one of the smalb islands of 
the Lac Inferieure. Some style and a great deal of 
gaiety may be observed at and around these cafes, at 
the hours of their popularity. 

The Jardin d' Acclimatation is one of the features 
connected with the Bois. It is a separate part of the 
enclosure, devoted to the rearing and preservation of 
foreign animals, (sort of Zoological Garden), and lies at 
the extreme northwest corner of the Bois, on a small 
boulevard running from the Porte de Neuilly to the 
Boulevard de Madrid (upper end of the AUee de la 
Reine), and the Boulevard de xMadrid itself. Elephants,. 



TJie Bo is de Boulogne. 1 17 

camels, zebras, &:c., (all for service for hire) are kept 
here, with a variety of other rare animals of nearly every 
country j and the Jardin is much resorted to, at all 
hours, at the moderate admission fee of 1 fr., as well as 
on Sunday and Thursday afternoons, at 3 p.m., when the 
fee is the same. Some of the hottest conflicts of the in- 
surgents and the Versailles troops took place about the 
Jardin, in May, 1871 ; and most of the animals that 
had not been killed and eaten in the starvation winter 
preceding, were then destroyed. They have been re- 
placed, however, and with the exception of the com- 
parative lack of grown trees, neither there nor in any 
portion of the Bois, are the m.arks of the late and de- 
structive war visible. [It is well to know that the 
jardin is open every day and all day.] 

Noting for a moment the history of this placed it 
may be said that the Bois de Boulogne was once a 
mere forest, abounding with game and especially re- 
sorted to by duelists. It belonged to the special do- 
main of the Crown, and was neglected, .though magni- 
ficent in wood. Much of this was cut down bv the 
Russians and Prussians, when encamped here in 1814 
and 1815. In 1852, after the coming of Napoleon III., 
it was presented to the municipality of Paris, on con- 
dition of its being made into and preserved as an im- 
proved park; and since that time (with the exception 
of its wood being felled again in the winter of iS/o-'/i,) 
it has well filled its place of being one of the noblest 
public grounds adjoining any city of the universe. 



ii8 Going to Paris, 

XLVe 

The Bois de Boulogne to St. Cloud, Sevreg, and 
Versailles. 

Most tourists go on, by whatever kind of carriage, 
from the Bois de Boulogne to Versailles, at one time or 
.another, and this succession will accordingly be next 
traced. Crossing the Seine either by the Pont de Neuilly 
or the Pont de Suresnes (in either case, with the noble 
fort of Mont Valerien visible, near, at the v/est- 
ward), route is pursued to the Bridge of St. Clolidy 
blov/n up by the French, 1871, to check the Germans, 
and the 

Palace of St. Cloud (ruins). The name of this no- 
ble old spot, which once gave title to the French- 
Court, is said to have been derived from King Cle- 
vis, who made his residence there. Through all the 
subsequent history of France it has been a royal and 
imperial residence, with a commanding location on the 
west bank of the Seine, and much charm of every de- 
scription. The Palace was burned in January, 1871, 
whether by the French or Bavarians remains a ques- 
tion. The handsome Pc7ri yet remains, though sorely 
disfigured. The villiage of Montretout, near, was 
materially damaged at the same time, as was the vil- 
lage of St. Cloud itself. On the right hand side of 
the Park (westward), lies the Battlefield of Buzenva!,. 
where some heavy fighting was done, and the Cemetery 
ofBuzenval, worth visiting for the many Germans buried 
there from the fights around it, and for some very odd 
or touching inscriptions. Next is reached, if going di- 



To St, Cloud, Sevres and Versailles. 119 

rect to Versailles, the handsome village of Ville 
d^Avray, with magnificent views near it, over the 
Seine and distant Paris, and many traces still remaining of 
the conflict. After Ville d'Avray, Versailles. But 
either going or returning, (going, best), visit will be 
paid to 

Sevres, and the Porcelains- Whether sharing or 
not in the popular craze for ceramics, the best things 
of the class should be seen, and they are at Sevres- 
In an old Chateau, (seriously damaged by cannon- 
shots in 1871, but without injury to any of the rare 
porcelains, carried away), admission is to be had, 11 
to 4 every day, except on Sundays and holidays, 
to the grandest collection of noble Vases, Services, 
Paintings on Porcelain, etc., to be found in the world. 
Many of the copies from great paintings by the Italian, 
and other masters, thus made, are literally priceless, 
and better worth possession than the originals. (Some 
very fine specimens of these were at the Philadelphia 
Centennial Exhibition, and will be remembered by 
many Americans) « The Musee Ceramique, with 
specimens from all ages and all countries, is only open 
to the public on Thursdays, and the workshops are 
not public. Very soon, if in 1878 the change has 
not already been accomplished, the manufactory is to 
be removed to a new building near the Pont de Sevres, 
the exhibition remaining at the old Chateau. 

From Sevres, direct to Vcrsailleso 



120 , Goinq to Pans, 

XLVI. 

At Magnificent Versailles. 

The Palace of Versailles was built (most of it) and 
the wonderful Park laid out, under the orders of Louis 
XIV., who is said to have spent on the whole erection 
more than 1,000,000,000 francs, or $200,000,000! 
At one time no less than 36,000 men and 6,000 horses 
are alleged to have been employed on the Palace and 
grounds, and the acqueduct from Maintenon. No des- 
cription of the royal abode is here possible; but enough 
features of commanding interest may be pointed out, 
for any ordinary visitor. 

The Palace of Versailles is immense in size, but 
by no means commanding in appearance. The central 
part was the old chateau of Louis XIII; the wings were 
added by Louis XIV. On the right, on approach, is 
the Chapel. Near it is the Theatre, now the Senate 
Chamber, and in the court of the left wing , the new 
Chamber of Deputies has been erected. 

In the Cour d'Honneur (first entered), are pillars at 
the entrance emblematical of the victories of Louis 
XIV.; and in the Court are two rows of statues, colos- 
sal, 16 in number, of Bayard, Colbert, Cardinal Rich- 
elieu, Marshal Jourdan, Marshal Massena, Adm. Tour- 
ville, Adm. Dugay, Trouin, Marshal Turenne, Du 
GuescHn, Sully, Suger, Marshal Lannes, Marshal Mor- 
tier, Adm. Suffren, Adm. Duquesne, and the Great 
Conde. In the centre of the Court stands a colossal 
equestrian statue of Louis XIV., by Cartellier and Pe- 
titot. The other courts, on viev/, are the Cour Roy- 



A^ Magmfice^it Versailles. 121 

ale, between the Pavilions, the Cour de Mart re, in front 
of the central building, the Cour de la Chapelle, and 
the Cour des Princes. 

The Palace, entered from the Cour d'Honneur, and 
having on its wings the inscription: '^ A toutes les 
Gloires de la France.''' (*'^ To all the glories of 
France,") has had as large a share as any other, except 
the Tuilleries, in the history of France since Louis 
XIII. That monarch made it his favorite home ; 
Louis XIV. enlarged it and redoubled its splendors; 
and Louis XV, made it the scene of his really wonder- 
full as vv^ell as disreputable amours. (The Hotel des 
Reservoirs,) where many tourists dine, was originally 
built by Louis XV., and presented to Jiis mistress, Ma- 
dame Pompadour.) Louis XVI. resided here, and 
brought Marie Antoinette here, adding to the bad repu- 
tation of the crown by reckless waste of wealth, 
though without any marked vice. He was stormed and 
sacked out of the Palace by a mob, October, 1789, 
since which period, except for a while by Napoleon, 
and occasionally, it has remained uninhabited. Under 
Louis Philippe, the Musee Historiqiie was formed, 
and occupied a great number of apartments, literally 
unrivalled in extent and the value of their collections. 
At that time (1832), the rooms were entirely refitted, 
works of art brought here from the Louvre and else- 
where, and the labors of many living artists added. 
Since then, though the temporary occupation by the 
Germans, and the continued sitting there of the Cham- 
bers, has somewhat changed and obstructed the process 
of sight-seeing, Versailles has been and remains one of 



122 Going to Paris, 

the world's greatest "shows." (From the 19th Sep- 
tember, 1870, to the 6th March, 1871, the Palace was- 
the headquarters of the German conqueror ; and here, 
on the 18th January, 1871, the King of Prussia became 
the Emperor of Germany.) 

On the First Floor are the apartments of Louis 
XIV, {"Les Petits Appartements^'), with his bedcham- 
ber, many pictures of his battles, old furniture, etc. 
The Galerie des Glaca (or *^de Louis XIV.") is an 
immense apartment, with matchless view from 17 win- 
dows with mirrors opposite. Th^t Appartements de la 
Reine, near, have large pictures by Van der Meulen, of 
scenes in the life of the Grande Monarque. Two of 
these rooms were- the bedchambers of Maria Theresa, 
Maria Leczinski (Queen of Louis XV.) and Marie 
Antoinette. In rooms following, nearly a dozen in 
number, are an endless succession of military and other 
pictures, connected with the campaigns of Napoleon^ 
Louis XIV., etc. So in the Galerie des Battailes, a 
splendid hall, near, literally crowded with military and 
historic pictures, by the best artists of France, and 
illustrating the most important events. So in the Salle 
des Rois de France, and its appendages, on the Ground 
Floor, where the military portraits are literally bewil- 
dering. So of the Galenes de P Empire, (on the Ground 
Floor of the south wing, not always opened to visi- 
tors), so especially full, as the name indicates, of Na- 
poleonic features. So of the Gallery of the History of 
France, on the Ground Floor of the north wing, with,, 
among many others, some of the noble historical works 
of Ary SchefFer. So of the Salles des Croisades, near. 



At Magyiificent Versailles. 125:^ 

with many large pictures of the Crusading days, with 
interesting memorials of the Siege of Rhodes, &c.. 
So of the Galerie de Constantine, on the First Floor, 
containing many of the best battle-pieces of Horace Vcr- 
net, from scenes in the Crimean and Algerian wars, etc. 
So of the Second Gallery of the History of France^ 
near the Gallery of Sculptures, on the same floor, con- 
taining late historical scenes. And here an end, 
these being the principal and most important, though 
by no means all. 

In the Grand Trianon (shown on Sunday, Tuesday^ 
and Thursday, 12 to 4), are generally shown some in- 
teresting relics of Napoleon I., some of Madame de 
Maintenon (unacknowleged wife of Louis XIV, for whom 
it was erected), some other curiosities and works of art. 
Near, may be inspected the state carriages of the mon- 
archs, in the Museum des Voitures. The Fetit Tri- 
anon, built by Louis XV., and the scene of many of 
that monarch's shameful amours, contains nothing of 
consequence, but can be seen by showing passport or 
feeing the intendant in charge. It has a garden, a lake, 
&c., and was sometimes occupied by Marie Antoinette,. 
Marie Louise and the Duchess of Orleans. 

It is with the grounds and waters of Versailles, that 
the visitor has quite as much to do as with the Palace, 
The line of approach, from Paris, is one of the most beau- 
tiful in the world ; the Avenue de la Reine, no less 
than three miles long, from the Palace at the back, is 
one of the most splendid views that can be conceived, of 
wood, water and verdure ; and the Tapis Vert (**green 
carpet"), extending from the Fountain of Latona to the. 



'1 2 4 Going to Paris, 

fountain of Apollo, is considered the finest bit of ver- 
dure in existence. 

The greater part of the grounds may be surveyed to 
advantage from the rear terrace of the Palace. They 
were originally laid out by Le Notre, the celebrated 
gardener of Louis XIV., and have much of the con- 
strained and form-al character of that time, — very 
rbeautiful, however, in the harmony of the whole. 
Many of the elm trees, forming the lower and northern 
portion of the Park, are of great size and beauty — - 
quite the rival of those of the Royal Park at Brussels, 
and at Nev^^ Haven in America. Throughout the 
grounds there are parterres, with stataes, vases, &c.j 
some of the divisions being known as the Parterres du 
Norcl, du Slid, du Midi, and d' Eau — the latter being 
really two large basins, with the Fountain of Diana 
and the Fountain of Daybreak to the right and left. At 
the foot of a flight of steps from the Parterre d' Eau, is 
the most notable water-work of the whole, the Fountain 
of hatonaj famous for the frogs and turtles spouting 
water against a group of Latona with Diana and Apollo. 
From this the (before named) Tapis Vert runs down to 
the Fountain of xA^pollo, with a group of that god and~ 
attendants. The largest fountain in the grounds is the 
Bassin de Neptune, with fine statuary and allegorical 
groups in metal. There are, besides, the Bassin du 
Dragon, Bassin du Printemps, Bassin d'Ete, Bassin 
d'^Automne, and an unhmited number of others, forming 
the most extensive and costly series of water-works in 
the world. The smaller fountains play every Sunday 
afternoon, and the grand fountains on the first Sunday 
of every month, from May to October. 



Luxembourg Palace and Gardens. 125 

The statues in the Pourioiir of Latone are the 
finest in the grounds, being very numerous, finely exe- 
cuted, and embodying many characters of mytholcgy. 

[An omnibus runs three times a day from Versailles 
(at Hotel des Reservoirs), to St. Germain, by which 
vehicles visit may be made to that place, St. Germain- 
en-laye, with the old Palace once occupied by the 
French Kings, and afterwards by James II., the exiled 
King of England, and his son and grandson. Also, to 
Malmaison, about one mile from the station of Rueil, 
where the Empress Josephine had her residence ; and to 
Rueil and the Church, the former connected with, the 
long residence of Cardinal Richelieu, and the latter be- 
ing the burial place and having the monuments of 
Josephine and her daughter, Queen Hortense, mother 
of Napoleon III. St. Germain, Malmaison and Rueil, 
may also be reached by St. Germain and Versailles 
railway, from St. Lazare station.] 

XLVIIL 

Luxembourg Palace and Gardens. 
This Palace, the Parisian rival of the' Louvre in pic- 
tures, though immeasureably behind it, was commenced 
by Jacques Delrosse, acting under the orders of Marie 
de Medicis, widowed queen of Henry IV., in 1615, 
and finished in 1620. It is stated to have been 
modelled after the Pitti Palace, at Florence, but bears, 
at present, no resemblance to it, v/hatever. It was, 
however, remodelled, to some extent, by Chalgrin, the 
artist of the Arc de I'Etoile, v/ho may have changed 
its general contour. In it, between 1621 and 1625,. 



a 26 Going to Paris. 

Rubens painted many of that large series of pictures 
now in the Louvre, illustrating the life and connections 
of that queen, his employer and patron. It was much 
enlarged, as well as remodelled, by Chalgrin (1804 to 
1806.) It was a royal habitation in its earlier days, 
used as a prison in the revolution of 1 793, became one 
of the Palaces of the Directory and of Napoleon I., 
when First Consul- was the Palace of the Senate, dur- 
ing the latter part of the First Empire, the Palace of 
the Peers, under Louis XVIII., Charles X., and Louis 
Philippe, and for a time the Palace of the Senate, un- 
der the Second Empire. It has now, apparently, drifted 
into the position of a public monument, like the 
Louvre, Versailles, &c., and probably is so best in 
place. The Prefect of the Seine, however, has his 
residence in a wing called the Petit Luxembourg, thus 
kept official. 

The name of this palace is said to have been derived 
from the fact, that a Duke of Luxembourg (on the 
frontiers, near Germany), had his abode in a previous 
building on the same site; and though many intentions 
of changing it have been entertained, they have never 
been carried out. The following comprise the principal 
apartments, only a part of them generally open to the 
public, on account of the pictures which they contain. 

ThQ Salk dii Trone, sumptuously fitted up in 1856, 
and containing many fine pictures, principally connected 
with the histories of the First and Second Empires. 
Cabinet de I'Empereiir, with a few and fine pictures, of 
similar character. Gallery of Busts, ot former Sena- 
tors and Peers. Apartments of Mane de M edicts, 



Liixemibourg Palace and Gardens. 127 

restored in 1817, and with pictures principally by pu- 
pils of Rubens. The Chapel, restored and redecorated 
by Louis Philippe, in 1842. The Library , with ceil- 
ing by Eugene Delacroix, subjects from Dante's 
Elysium. The Musee du Luxembourg is a fine gather- 
ing of works of living artists, in painting, sculpture, 
drawing, engraving, etc., occupying part of the ground 
£oor and most of the first floor. Most of the works here 
shown are of very good class, and the collection is in- 
dispensable to a fair study of modern French art, though 
not to be named with that of the Louvre. 

The Luxembourg Gardens lie on the south and 
east sides of the Palace, and have shaded walks and 
flower-parterres, are well kept and of much beaui.y. Not 
far from the gate of these grounds, is the Fontaine de 
Medicis, by Delrosse, the designing architect of the 
Palace. Thii fountain has two fronts and and some 
pleasing sculptures. To the left of the fountain is a 
group in marble, of Adam, Eve, and two children, by 
Garraud; and on the terraces surrounding the parterre 
are twenty marble statues of celebrated Frenchwomen. 
There are also, in front of the Palace, a large basin, 
with group of children and fountains ; two Italian mar- 
ble columns, with a David and a Nymph ; and some 
other pleasing figures on both parterres, among them 
copies of the Diana of Versailles and the Borghese 
Gladiator. 

[From the Luxembourg Gardens are visible, near at 
hand, the Observatory \^ Astronomical), the Pantheon, 
and the School of Mines, easily embraced in the same 
visit.] 



128 Going io Paris. 

At the lower part of the Gardens, now cut away for 
the B. St. Michel, has been erected a fountain, with 
horses rising from the water, called the Carrefour de 
rObservatoire, from which the Allee and Avenue de 
I'Observatoire stretch down to the latter; and to the 
left of the Carrefour stands the Statue of Marshal 
Ney, on the spot v/here he was shot on Dec. 7, 1815, 
by order of the Chamber of Peers. 

XLIX. 

The Paris Observatory. 
The location of this celebrated haunt of astronomi- 
cal science has been given in the preceding section — 
within the walk of a moment or two from the Lux- 
embourg. It was founded in 1672, has done im- 
mense service to the science for which it was erected, 
and contains some of the most powerful and costly in- 
struments ever constructed. One telescope, recently 
completed, cost 200,000 francs, and is among the best 
yet made. The meridian of Paris runs through the 
centre of the building, which has a revolving copper 
dome, 42 feet in diameter, to accommodate the great 
equatorial instrument. Visitors are not permitted to 
enter and inspect any part of the Observatory, unless 
with the permission of the Director, which is not al- 
ways or often easy to obtain ; so that the usual 
visit is paid outside, with due reverence for La Place, 
Arago, Leverrier and their confreres and followers in the 
great work of astronomical science, understood but not 
expressed. 



Tlie Pantheon ; or, S'e, Genevieve, 1 29 

L. 

The Pantheon ; or, Ste. Genevieve. 

The location of the Pantheon, or Church of St. 
Genevieve, too, has been indicated from the Gardens 
of the Luxembourg, where it is in full sight, and from 
whence it is within a walk of five minutes, up-hill. 

This noble pile was built in 1764, in the reign of 
Louis XV., to replace another church of the same 
female Saint; but in 1792, when the fever of nation- 
ality was on the nations, it was converted into the 
"Paniheon," or Temple of Fame, dedicated to the 
great who had honored France, in the estimation of 
those assuming to determine their status. At this time 
the celebrated inscription was put upon the front, where 
it still remains : " Aiix grands hommes la patrie re- 
connaissant.^^ (To great men the recognizing coun- 
try.) It was erased in 1822, when for the time the in- 
tention was to make it once more a church ; but in 
1830, Louis Philippe,- who so scrupulously recog- 
nized the greatness of all who had gone before him, 
had it replaced, under the noble sculpture in the tym- 
pan of the pediment, representing France distribu- 
ting garlands to her favorites. The structure is a 
commanding one, in a position worthy of it ; and 
from a long distance, the noble body of the edifice, 
crowned by a lofty dome, meets the eye most pleas- 
ingly. (The view from the top of this dome, higher 
than any other spot in the city, is said to be, and 
must be, a glorious one, to those who have no dislike 
to '"getting high.") 



130 Going to Paris. 

In length, the Pantheon is 369 feet, by 275 feet 
in width. The arms of the cross, 80 feet in height, 
are notably plain, serving only as part of the base for 
the dome. The centre-bearing for this is a base, 50 
feet in height, with a circular temple surrounded by 
32 Corinthian columns, terminating in a gallery, above 
which rises the dome to the additional height of 45 
feet, with a diameter of 78 feet, crowned with a col- 
onnaded lantern still surmounted by a cupola and 
cross. Under the portico are two fine groups of sculp- 
tures — St. Genevieve imploring the Huns to spare 
Paris, and the Baptism of King Clovis by Remegius. 
The interior is reached by three noble bronze doors; 
and the shape, within, is that of a rotunda, with ap- 
propriate frescoes and paintings by Gros, Gerard, etc. 
The main altar, in the right transept, is surmounted by 
a fine group, by Pilon. Many attractive ornamenta- 
tions are to be found in the other chapels. It is in- 
tended to literally fill the walls with religio-historical 
paintings; but the principal works, now, are at the 
base of the dome, and present some magnificent fea- 
tures, by Baron Gros and others. 

In the vaults (11 to 4:30 P. M.) were buried the re- 
mains of Rousseau, Mirabeau, Marat, Lagrange, Bou- 
gainville, Marshal Lannes, Voltaire, Soufflet and sev- 
eral Senators (some of them now removed)- and there 
are some monuments of mark to Voltaire, Rousseau, 
and others. 

The Pantheon was the headquarters of the insur- 
gents in 1848, and again of the Communists in 1871 ; 
and some severe fighting took place around it, in both 
cases, fortunately without damage to the fine edifice. 



The Cathedral of Notre Dame, 1 3 1 

The Library of Ste. Genevieve is a building on the 
north side of the square of the Pantheon, erected in 
1850, with a noble collection of books, of 160,000 
vols., besides 30,000 MSS., a valuable collection of ty- 
pographical specimens, etc. On the walls are medal- 
lions with the names of many authors of all nations ; 
in the vestibule are busts of twenty of the most emi- 
nent French writers; and on and above the staircase 
are a statue of Gering, who established the first print- 
ing-press, and a copy of Raphael's "School of Athens," 
from the Vatican. The reading-room, on the first floor, 
is admirably constructed and arranged, 333 feet in 
length, 66 in width, and 42 in height, and capable at 
one time of accommodating 420 readers. 

LI 
The Cathedral of Notre Dame. 
This Cathedral, the leading religious house of Paris, 
stands at near the southeastern corner of the lie de la 
Cite, exactly opposite the Pantheon on the southern 
side of the Seine, and the Place de Greve (Place du 
Hotel de Ville), on the northern. After St. Peter's at 
Rome, and Westminster Abbey, it is perhaps the best 
known place of worship on the globe, that result not 
alone being owed to the grandeur of the edifice, but 
partially to some things in its history, and yet more to 
the fact that the master of French romancists, Victor 
Hugo, has chosen to weave around it many of his most 
striking fancies, especially in the *'^ Hunchback of Notre 
Dame." 



[32 Going to Paris. 

Notre Dame, as alleged, was founded in 1163 ; and. 
the interior and facade are said to have been completed" 
early in the 13th century. The general effect of the 
building, which fronts westward, and has tv/o heavy 
blunt-headed towers in front and one slight spire at the 
rear, is heavy and cumbrous ; but the fa<^ade is v>^on-- 
drously fine, redeeming all other imperfections. The 
church is about 400 feet in length, by 156 in width, 
with height of nave 100 feet. It has undergone, during- 
the long centuries, many vicissitudes, and has been often 
injured, but as often repaired, and generally to its ad- 
vantage. 

Any attempt, here, to describe that wonderful front,, 
would be idle, crowded, as it is, with statues and sculp- 
tures, and with a magnificent Rose-JVindow 42 feet in 
diameter, side windows, galleries, columns, and rich 
ornamentations that still all seem wondrously heavy 
and substantial. The main portal is especially rich 
and fine ; and there are two side or lateral portals, en- 
riched v/ith sculptures and crowned with pointed gables. 

Within, Notre Dame is much more heavy and plain- 
er looking than the outside would indicate. The 
length of the clustered stems of the arches, and the 
height to the vaulted roof, seem immense and over- 
pov/ering. The building is cruciform, with double 
aisles and 25 chapels. From inside, the exquisite effect 
of the stained glass in the rose and and side windows 
should be noted. The C/ioir and Altar are separated 
from the gallery by elevated railings; and the choir- 
stalls and reliefs in wood, representing Christ, the Vir- 
gin, etc., are considered wonders of delicate work. 



The Cathedral of Notre Dame. 135 

A magnificent new Altar was dedicated in 1872; and 
l^ehind it are statues of Louis XIII. and XIV., and a 
Pieta with tlie *' Vow of Louis XIII. /' by Couston. 
Ac the beginning of the retro-choir, on the south side 
(tickets from the verger, 50 centimes), is the entrance 
to the Nouvelle Sacristie, erected in 1846 to 1848, by 
Viollet-le-Duc, and containing the Treasury, in which 
are to be seen certain reliques alleged to be connected 
-\v\xh the life and death of the Saviour, with what auth- 
enticity may be guessed ; reliquaries, ecclesiastical 
vestments and vessels of great cost and splendor; the 
coronation robe of Napoleon L; a statue of the Virgin 
and Christ in silver, presented by Charles X.; and 
other curiosities. In the veiro-c\\o\v (^pourtour), when 
open to visitors, are to be seen monuments to former 
archbishops ot Paris, in fine sculptures; and the outside 
of the Choir has some fine work in gilded stone, repre- 
senting scenes in the life of Christ. 

The view from the Towers is said to be one of the 
iinest over the city, and the ascent may be made for 
fees, in all, of 50 centimes. Half wav up, the Great 
Bell, one of the largest after that of Moscow, is shown; 
and the roof, from, the extreme height, may be seen to 
advantage, with its reminders of Dom Claude Frollo 
and Esmeralda, in Victor Hugo's romance. 

Historically, it may be difficult to say what has or 
has not been done in Notre Dame. Undoubtedly 
many of the religious services connected with the old 
Prench history actually took place under those splendid 
■columns and high arches; and there would not seem to 
i>e much doubt that St. Louis really took the oriflamme 



134 Going io Paris. 

there, before going to the Holy Land, in the Crusades. 
OfJate centuries, the most interesting fact is that Napo- 
leon I. and Josephine were crowned at the High Altar, 
the Pope performing the ceremony. 

No visitor to Notre Dame should omit to attend the 
Sunday morning service, which may be done, even if 
going to Versailles by the carriages. The services are 
impressive ; the organ is grand in its effects j and the 
chantings and processions of the priests are something 
to be heard, seen and remembered. To those who un- 
derstand the spoken French, the morning services will 
be found very interesting, even though Pere Hyacinthe, 
at one time the lecturer there, no longer fills that 
position. 

LII. 
The Palace of Justice, Conciergerie, and Sainte 
Chapelle. 

At the other end of He de la Cite from Notre Dame, 
is the chief correctional structure of the city, the Palais 
de Justice, zn immense range of building, ending at the 
Boulevard du Palais (B.St. Michel), and connected 
with' the Prejecture of Police (head-quarters of that 
department), immediately at the south. The Palace was 
erected so far back as about 1560, but suffered by fire 
in 1618 and in 1776, and has been rebuilt and repaired 
until nothing is said now to remain of it except the 
four towers, the Tour de 1' Horloge, du grand Cesar, de 
Montgomery, and the pointed Tour d' Argent. Much 
of it was again burned on the 22d May, 1871, and some 
portions, especially the Salle des Pas Perdiis, have not 



Tlie Palace of Justice. 135 

yet been rebuilt. The great Courts of Justice, the Cour 
de Cassation, of Appeal, Tribunal of First Instance, 
and Tribunal of Police, are all held in this building. 
Their proceedings are to be witnessed, between 12 and 
4 o'clock, except on Sundays and holidays and during 
the August and September vacation; and the visit 
should not be omitted. The Chamber of Correctional 
Police is perhaps the most interesting of all, for scenes 
and pleadings. The Salle des Pas Perdus, now in 
ruins, was an immense and splendid hall, with many 
historical reminiscences, among others, some of the ex- 
aminations ofLouis X^IV. and Marie Antoinette. 

The Sainte Chapelle, in the Court of the Palace, is 
open daily from 12 to 4, with fees on Mondays and 
Fridays only. ' It was the old Palace Chapel, erected in 
1245 for the reception of the relics from Jerusalem now 
in Notre Dame. The exterior of the chapel, hidden 
by the Palace, is very beautiful Gothic ; and the in- 
terior is richly decorated, has fine stained glass, ceiling 
of carved oak, etc. 

The Conciergerie, which shows its strange pointed 
towers across the Seine from the Quai d'Horloge, is 
one of the most sadly interesting buildings in Paris, 
on account of the prisoners of State and victims of 
the guillotine who were confined here during the 
First Revolution. The chamber occupied by Marie 
Antoinette was afterwards converted into a chapel and 
adorned with pictures and relics, but destroyed by fire 
in 1871. The entrance to the gloomy portals of the 
Conciergerie is from the Quai, between the Towers 
of Cesar and Montgomery. 



13^ Going to Paris, 

LIII. 

The Church of the Madeleine- 

Thh church, one of the handsomest in Paris or the 
-world, and one of the most complete specimens of 
Grecian architecture extant, stands on the boulevard 
of its name, at the end of the Rue Royale, con- 
necting the main chain of boulevards with the Place 
de la Concorde, This charming structure was com- 
menced in 1764, but remained uncompleted at the 
outbreak of the Revolution. Napoleon ordered it com- 
pleted, in 1806, and turned it temporarily into a Temple 
of Glory to the soldiers of the Grande Armee. Louis 
XVIII. comrrencedto convert it into an expiatory 
monument to Louis XVI. and his family; but this was 
again interrupted, and the edifice was not finally com- 
pleted, as a church, until 1842. 

This splendid structure, approached by a flight of 28 
steps, is in the form of a Grecian temple, upon a base- 
ment of some 20 feet in height. It is 350 feet long, and 
148 wide, surrounded by Corinthian columns 52 feet 
in height. The tympan of the pediment in front, has 
a magnificent sculpture of the ''Last Judgment," by 
Lemaire, with Mary Magdalene pleading for the lost. 
The noble bronze doors are illustrated with the Ten 
Commandments. Within, the whole edifice fornis one 
large hall, with altars, chapels, many columns, and a 
High Altar surmounted by an admirable marble grou^ 
by Marochetti, representing the Assumption of Mary 
Magdalene. In this latter, the figures are very numer- 
ous, and the whole altar-piece is probably the finest and 



The Palais Royal. 137 

■most costly in the world. The Chapel des Manages, 
to the right of the entrance, has a g'Oup in marble by 
Pradier, representing the marriage of the Virgin ; and 
the Chapel des Fonts, to the left, has a group, by Rude, 
representing the Baptism of Christ. There are in all, 
beside, six chapels, all splendidly appointed; and it 
may be said that the whole effect of the Madeleine, 
within as well as without, is bright and elevating as well 
as delightful. 

Many marriages, as well as many funeral services, take 
place at the Madeleine ; and the days are not many on 
which the visitor will not encounter, during the morning 
hours, one or both of those rituals. 

LIV. 

The Palais Royal. 
The Palais Royal, standing at the north side of the 
Seine, eastward of the Louvre, was erected by the cele- 
brated Cardinal Richelieu, in 1629 to 1636, and was 
then called the " Palais Cardinal." He presented it to 
Louis XllL; and Anne of Austria, the Queen, Louis 
XIV., and Philip Duke of Orleans, resided here. It 
-was here, with the name changed to the " Palais 
Royal," that the Regent Philip, Duke of Orleans, son 
of the former, and nephew of the king, indulged in 
those licentious splendors so famous in romance and le- 
gend. The Palais Royal remained in the possession of 
the Orleans family, until the execution of Philip I'Ega- 
lite, of that house, in 1793, when the Convention took 
possession of it and called it the ^-Palais Egalite." Na- 
poleon assembled the Tribunate here, in 1801, and 



138 Going to Paris. 

called it the *Talais du Tribunal." It became the 
"Palais Royal/' again, on the restoration of the Bour- 
bons ; and Louis Philippe, Duke of Orleans, occupied 
it until he ascended the throne in 1830. The Repub- 
licans sacked it in 1848, and called it the "Palace Na- 
tional-" Napoleon III. again restored the old name, 
and installed there Prince Napoleon Bonaparte, his 
cousin, son of Jerome. The Communists set it on fire 
in May, 1871, to destroy Prince Napoleon's chambers, 
and the south wing was burned. It has since been re- 
stored, but is used by the Council of State, and not 
shown to the public. 

The interest of the Palais Royal to the world of 
visitors, now lies in the shops and restaurants occupy- 
ing the Galeriede Ckartres, Galerie lV Orleans, Gal- 
erie de Valois, Galerie Beaiijolais, etc. The Galerie 
d'Orleans is 320 feet in length, by 150 feet in width, 
covered with glass, with marble flooring, the Cafe 
Rotonde, at the north end" of the Garden, has the sole 
privilege of placing chairs in the Garden for its guests. 
— the "Garden" being really a name and nothing more. 
The ground floors of most of the square of buildings 
enclosing the Gardens, are occupied by Shops, with the 
most tempting display in the world — especially for the 
evening; and on the first-floors are the equally famous 
Restaurants. The Theatre Francaii' forms the south- 
west corner of the pile, on the Rue Richelieu ; and 
the Theatre du Palais Royal is at the opposite end of 
the same side, at the termination of the Galerie Mont- 
pensier. 



Tlie Cliamp de Mars and the Trocadero. 139 

Enough has been said, elsewhere, and enough is 
spoken, continually, to indicate that the Palais Royal is 
a great resort for shopping, dining, and supping. For 
the viands and wines procured in the latter, there are 
cheaper places; and the phrase '" Palais Royal jewelry" 
does not always convey the impression of eighteen 
carats. 

LV. 
The Champ de Mars and the Trocadero. 
This great public ground lies at lower end of the 
Quai d' Orsay, on the south side of the Seine, between 
the Avenue du la Bourdonnaye on the west and the 
Avenue Suffren on the east, with the river and the Pont 
de Jena forming the northern boundary, and the south- 
ern the Avenue de la Mothe and the Ecole Militaire be- 
yond the latter. The space enclosed in it is some 
1,000 yards in length (to and from the river), and 500 
yards in the other direction. The history connected 
with it does not extend very far back, but has one or 
two features of importance. It was the scene, in 1790,. 
of the great gathering known as the Fete de la Federa- 
tion, at which all Frenchmen swore brotherhood, with 
Talleyrand, Bishop of Autun, and 400 of the clergy 
officiating. Napoleon celebrated here the Champ de 
Mai, a similar gathering of loyalty, just before Water- 
loo, 1st of June, 1815. Here, too, Louis Philippe pre- 
sented colors to the National Guard, in 1830; and Na- 
poleon distributed eagles to the army in 1852. It has 
been the favorite spot for reviews and military specta- 
cles, there being room to manoeuvre 30,000 men at 
once on it. 



i^o Going io Paris. 

The Champ dt Mars, however, saw in 1867 the calmi- 
nation of its glory. It held, that year, the great Expo- 
sition Building, with the houses of all nations surround- 
ing it, and the grounds turned into a park of elaborate 
perfection, with the Pare Frangais forming the ex- 
tremity towards the Military School. It saw, that year, 
the greatest magnificence of display, in an international 
gathering, and in the visits of the notable and the com- 
mon of all climes, so far ever known in the world. In 
1878 it is to see a repetition of this great display, the 
-large buildings being some time completed, with those 
on the Trocadero, opposite, destined to receive the 
world's contributions, and to show that France a re- 
public is not inferior to France an empire. 

The Trocadero, on the opposite side of the Seine 
(the Pont de Jena between) is an open space of about 
270 yards in diameter, named after a spot in Spain con- 
nected with the Bourbon troubles there, and where Na- 
poleon I. once contemplated building a Palace for his 
son, the King of Rome. The Trocadero is high, and 
-commands a fine view over the Seine and part of the 
city. An extensive flight of steps leads up to it from 
the Bridge. The Place du Roi de Rome has been made 
from a portion of it, v/ith avenues leading away to the Arc 
de I'Etoile and elsewhere ; and, as already said, it holds, 
for 1878, apart of the Exposition buildings and is to be 
one of the scenes of the great gathering. 



The Ecole Militaire» 14 l 

LVI. 
The Ecole Militaire. 
The Military School stands immediately behind (away 
from the river, from) the Champ de Mars, separated 
from it by the Avenue de la Mothe. It is an imposing 
structure, founded by Louis XV. in 1751, "for the edu- 
cation of 500 gentlemen in all the arts of war." It v/as 
converted into a barrack during the first revolution, but 
has since returned to the office indicated by its name. 
The wings were added by Napoleon III., in 1855. It 
has a noble chapel, on the model of that at Versailles, 
No admissions are had to the School or the building, 
without special permission, which, however, will no^ 
doubt be somewhat freely accorded during 1878. 

LVII. 
The Hotel des Invalides, and Tomb of Napoleon. 

This magnificent institution, one of the boasts of 
France (and capable of shaming America, which so 
needs something of the sort), was founded by Louis 
XIV., in 1670, as a refuge for the many soldiers 
wounded and disabled in his wars. It was begun in 
1671, by the Architect Bruant, and (he dying the 
same year) completed in 1675 by Mansart, who gave 
his corrupted name, ^'Mansard^" to the modern roof 
of that designation. 

The great building stands but a little way from the 
Seine, on the south side, only separated from the river 
by the noble Esplanade des Invalides — within a very 
short distance, eastward, from the Military School, and 
directly opposite the Palais d'Industrie, in the- 



142 Going to Paris. 

Champs Elysees on the opposite side. It is to be seen 
from a great distance, having a commanding appear- 
ance, materially added to by the height and beauty 
of the gilded dome, which appears to crown the 
main structure, while it is really behind it and cover- 
ing the church. It is considered capable of accommo- 
dating 5,000 pensioners; but it is less popular than of 
old and only holds an average of 700 to 800, of whom 
150 to 200 are officers. Each inmate has his lodging, 
board, and a small pension, with certain restraints and 
corresponding privileges. In front of the building is 
a battery of 28 guns, used for firing salutes, and sev- 
eral trophy guns, unmounted, taken from the Germans, 
Austrians, Dutch, &c. 

Entrance is to be had, for i franc fee, which se- 
cures the services as a guide of one of the invalids at 
the entrance. The objects of interest are the Kitch- 
ens and Refectories, (which should not be lost), the 
sleeping apartments {yNh\c)i should) y the Library, and 
the Council Chamber. There are some moderate his- 
torical war pictures in the Refectory, principally by 
Martin; and immense cauldrons in the kitchen deserve 
attention. The Library has some 30,000 volumes, and 
some valuable MSS., besides a copy of '' Bonaparte 
Crossing the Alps," by David, statuette of Turenne, 
cannon ball which killed him, and some other curi- 
osities. The only objects of interest in the Council 
Chamber, vestibule, etc., are drawings of flags, arms, 
etc., and portraits of many of Napoleon's Marsh- 
als, and many other warriors of France- The 
Museum oj Artillery, on the west side of the Cour 



The Halles Centrales {Great Market s.) 143 

d'Honneur, has an immense and interesting collection 
of the arms of all ages and nations, with many relics of 
the great, armor of the Kings of France, copies of the 
flags of France, the Oriflamme, lily-flag of Joan d'Arc, 
&c. 

The Dome of the Invalides (church) is entered Iroin 
the Place Vauban, on the Avenue Tourville. It is very 
beautiful, within, with the fine sweep of the dome, and 
the High Altar flooded with golden light ; and there 
are interesting monuments, around it, to Joseph Bona- 
parte, Turenne, Vauban, etc. But the attraction and 
the most instructive and sorrowful spot on earth, is the 
Tomb of Napoleon, in a sunken space in the middle of 
the circle, where, in a green marble sarcophagus, sur- 
rounded by his mouxdering battle-flags in clus:.ers, and 
by weeping figures in marble, lies the Great Conqueror. 

In the Church of St. Louis (entered from the south 
side of the Cour d' Honneur,"! is a memorable collection 
of battle-flags, captured in various wars, though 1,500 
of the number then existing there were burned in 1814, 
to prevent their falling into the hands of the allies. The 
Hotel des Invalides is open every day, at the usual 
hours j but the Dome, with the Tomb of Napoleon, is 
shown on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and 
Saturdays, 12 to 3. 

Lvni. 

The Halles Centrales (Great Markets.) 

One of the greatest Markets in the world is to be 

found in the Halles Centrales, standing at the Rues de 

la Tonnelerie and de Rambuteau, very near the centre 

of the city, and opposite the Church of St. Eustache. 



144 Going to Paris. 

The building is very large, of iron, covered with zinc, 
and consisting of 12 covered pavilions, 48 feet wide and 
48 feet high, crossed by a boulevard 105 feet in width, 
running from the Pourte St. Eustache towards the Rue 
de Rivoli. The number of stalls in all the pavilions is 
about 3,000, and the whole expense of ground and 
erection was about 60,000,000 francs. There are also 
1,200 cellars beneath, lighted with gas, for the storage 
of goods — reached by stairways from the corner pavil- 
ions. All these immense magazines are to be connected 
by subterranean passages with the Ceinture Railway, the 
work not yet completed. The visitor should attend 
these great markets at a very early hour in the mornings 
to see the night arrivals of meats, vegetables, etc., in 
which the Halles Centrales are simply overwhelming. 
An odd feature is the fact that no purchases can be 
made until 9 A- M., when the ringing of a bell announ- 
ces the opening to the general public, 

LIX. 
The Bourse (Great Exchange.) 
This great moneyed-centre of Paris, and one of the 
financial pulses of Europe, stands on the Place de la 
Bourse, on the Rue de la Bourse, off the Rue Vivienne. 
It is a handsome large building, colonnaded with 64 
Corinthian columns, built between 1808 and 1826. At 
the corners are four statues, of Commerce, Justice, In- 
dustry and Agriculture. The building is enclosed by a 
railing, and approached by a flight of sixteen steps at 
each end. The clock of the Bourse regulates the Paris 
time ; though why it should do so, v/ith the Observa- 



Pere la Chaise {Great Cemetery.) 145 

tory the astronomical centre, may well be a wonder. 
The Hall, 1 20 feet in length, and 8 1 feet in width 
and height, is opened for business at 12 noon ; but vis- 
itors are admitted to the gallery from 9 A. M., and this 
is the point of view over a scene quite as French as any- 
thing else in Paris. At one end of the hall is a railed 
space only entered by the members of the Board of 
Brokers (called agents de change) with a corheil, or 
circular raised space in the centre, around which the 
bidders congregate. The noise of the babbling voices, 
during change hours (ending at 3 P. M.,) is simply 
deafening, as on all stock-exchanges, but the spectacle 
is one that should not be missed by any one having 
leisure to see it. From 3 to 5 P. M., the hall is open 
for other business, and to the public, who very often 
take advantage of the opportunity. 

LX. 
Pere la Chaise (Great Cemetery.) 

The great cemeteries of Paris are Pere la Chaise, 
on the east side of the city, Montparnasse, on the 
south, and Montmartre on the north. They are all 
extensively patronized, every day, as is inevitable; and 
they are all visited to an extent unknown elsewhere 
except at the Greenwood Cemetery, Brooklyn, New 
York; but literally half the population goes out to them 
on All Souls* Day, November 2d. 

By far the most important of these is Pere la Chaise, 
on the Boulevard Menilmontant, south of Belleville, 
and only separated by a square from the great Prison 
of La Roquette. It may be reached by cab^ by omni- 



146 Going to Paris. 

bus, or by the Ceinture Railway to Charonne Station, 
very near. This cemetery, to those who have seen the 
handsomest American^'cities of the dead," is by no means 
attractive, in spite of shaded walks, costly monuments, 
and every effort to give it pre-eminence as a place of 
sepulture. The number of monuments now standing, 
of all classes, is some 50,000; and the amount ex- 
pended on the supply of monuments, since the opening 
in 1804, is computed at one hundred millions of francs. 
-Guides may be found in a small building to the right 
of the entrance, and the services of one, unless time is 
no object, will generally be found profitable, especially 
as many of them are polyglots in language. By far the 
most important and best-known monument will be found 
very near the entrance — that of Abelard and Heloise, 
made immortal by history and Rousseau. Any attempt 
to mention the other principal memorials scattered 
throughout the immense ground would be useless and 
fatiguing. Many of Napoleon's Generals sleep near to- 
gether, not far from the tomb already noticed; and 
nearly every name celebrated in French arms, letters, 
statesmanship, law, physic, the drama, or any other 
calling, may be found inscribed on one or another of the 
stones of the different walks. 

Nothing more characteristic of the nation can be found 
than the ornamentation of many of the humbler tombs— 
to say the least, showily-theatrical; and nothing sad- 
der can be found in all the world, than the appearance 
of the broad acres, covered with the graves of the 
very humble, marked with weather-stained wooden or 
other crosses. It is scarcely necessary to say that be- 



The Hotel de Cliiny. 147 

fore and around the entrance of Pere la Chaise, the 
mercantile trade in marble and flowers flourishes. 

LXI. 

The Hotel de Cluny, Palais des Thermes, and Sor.- 

BONNE. 

The Hotel Cluny stands at near the junction of the 
Boulevards St. Michel and St. Germain, on the south 
side of the Seine, and not far from the Luxembourg. 
The entrance is from No. 14 Rue de Sommerard, in the 
Place des Ecoles. Open every day, 1 1 to 4 ; and free 
to all showing passport, every day except Monday. A 
catalogue (zf., at the entrance), is absolutely neces- 
sary, for any examination of the very large and singu- 
lar collection. To the west of the court behind the 
hotel, are the Thermes, or ruins of the Roman Baths, 
said to have been erected by the Emperor Constantius 
Chlorus, v/ho ruled in Gaul about the year A. D. 
300. In the Palace, of which these baths formed a 
part, the Emperor Julian was proclaimed by the Roman 
soldiers, A. D. 360 ; and at the same Palace some of 
the earlier Prankish Kings made their residence. 

The ruins ofthe Thermal Baths are interesting as a 
study of Roman architecture only. 

The present Hotel Cluny is said to have been erected 
about 1500, by Abbots ofthe Benedictine Abbey of 
Cluny, in Burgundy. It had originally many charms 
of architecture, some still preserved. It came with the 
lands ofthe crown, and Mary Tudor, widow of Louis 
XII., and sister of Henry VIII. of England, resided here, 
one of her apartments still being called the Chambre 



148 Going to Paris. 

de la Reine Blanche. James V., of Scotland, the father 
of Mary Queen of Scots, and the Fitz-James of the- 
"Lady of the Lake," was married, here, to Madeleine, 
daughter of Francis I., January 1st, 1537. 

The Museum is alleged to contain some 10,000 ob- 
jects, principally of Mediaeval Curiosities, and other 
Roman Antiquities, part of them in the ruined Palais- 
des Thermes. No more miscellaneous collection exists, 
and fev/ more interesting, to those who v/ill spend a few 
hours in looking and studying. Old weapons, of every 
character; ecclesiastical vestments ; nine crowns of the 
Gothic Kings of Spain ; works in glass, ivory, metals 
and precious stones ; mosaics ; gold plate ; pictures ; 
altar-pieces ; a vessel, with Charles V. and the nobles of 
his court, in gold and gilded bronze — such, and of all 
other kinds imaginable, are the wilderness of curiosities 
here displayed. 

Nearly opposite to the Hotel Cluny is 

The Sorbonne, or University of Paris, an old theo- 
logical college, of which the Doctors for ages claimed 
the acme of human knowledge, and defied world and 
Pope. It has a Great Hall, capable of seating 2,000 
persons; has all the learned faculties; and a Library of 
80,000 volumes, open every day except holidays, 10 to 
3 and 7 to 10, The Church of the Sorbofine faces the 
Place of that name, and has a noble dome. It is open 
from 8 to 10 A. M., and at other hours on appHcation. 
It has some good paintings, by Philip de Champagnc- 
and others. 



A Feio of the Great Schools. 149 

XII. 
A Few of the Great Schools. 

The Polytechnic (Ecolc Polytechnic.) This celebra- 
ted institution, in which so many of the first minds of 
France have been trained in those useful arts looking to 
the physical and material prosperity of the country, 
stands on the Rue Descartes, near the Pantheon, in the 
buildings of the old College de Navarre- Most of the 
great mathematicians of France have been formed here. 

School of Fine Arts (Ecole des Beaux Arts). This 
Institution, for the study of painting, sculpture, engrav- 
ing, gem-cutting and architecture, in most or all of 
which the French hold marked prominence, is at 14 Rue 
Bonaparte, near the Institute, and may be visited every 
■day from lo to 4. The building is handsome, and the 
collection within is a valuable gathering of specimens of 
art, with some noble pictures, — among others Paul 
Delaroche's '' Hemicycle Des Beaux Arts;" and in the 
Chapel of the old monastery, adjoining, is a copy of 
Michael Angelo's "^ Last Judgment." 

School of Lazu (Ecole de Droit). This school is 
opposite the Pantheon. The lectures, very famous, are 
public, and contain much of the highest interest. Sep- 
tember and October are vacation. 

School f Mines, {EcoIq des Mines). This celebra- 
ted School, of great importance in the practical educa- 
tion of the French, is on the Boulevard St. Michel, near 
Luxembourg Gardens. Much information is to be ob- 
tained in the lectures and the collections of this School. 



15° Going to Paris. 

Conservatory of Music. The location of this noble 
Institution, which has done so much for musical science, 
is on the Rue de 1' Echlquier, at its junction with the 
Rue du Faubourg Poissoniere (15, Rue du F. P.) 
Though not strictly a " school." the Conservatoire has 
to do with the noblest teachings of the gay science. 
The Concerts, given here every second Sunday, from 
January to April, are among the most celebrated in the 
world. Admission is difficult, but may sometimes be 
secured, on the Friday following a Concert, at the 
office, 15 Rue du Faubourg Poissoniere. 

Conservatory of Arts and Trades (Des Arts et 
Metiers). This noble institution is at No. 292 Rue 
St. Martin, near the Porte St. Martin. Lectures em- 
brace nearly everything in the useful arts ; and the col- 
lection, divided into 24 sections, is one of the most 
extensive on the globe, in the same useful directions. 
Admission every day, 10 to 4; on Sunday and Thurs- 
day, free ;' other days, 1 franc. 

LXIII. 

The Place and Column of the Bastille. 
Much of the interest connected with the Place de la 
Bastille, which forms the eastern extremity of the great 
line of boulevards, is to be found in its history, the old 
Bastille having stood here, in which so many long im- 
prisonments of political captives took place, entering 
largely into romance as well as history. The date of 
its building is not known ; that of its destruction wa& 
July 14th, 1789, when the populace captured and 
levelled it, amid perfect howls of joy over the fall of a 



SL Denis, Royal Abbey Qhurch. 151 

great stronghold of tyranny. Napoleon I. intended to 
erect a colossal fountain on the spot, but did not live 
to carry out the project. After the fall of Charles X., 
1830, the remains of the "victims of July," of that 
year, were deposited here, and a grand column was 
raised — the Column of July. It is a noble Corinthian 
shaft, with the pedestal 164 feet in height, with the 
names of the victims, now partially obliterated; and it 
is surmounted by a figure of Liberty, bearing a torch 
and a broken chain, executed in 1844. Some good 
sculptures^ a lion, cock, &c., are around the large pedes- 
tal, within which is a vault with the remains. Some 
of the sharpest fighting between the Versailles troops 
and the Communists, May, 1871, took place round 
the column, which was then considerably damaged by 
bullets, and which the Communists intended to blow 
down. There is a fine view from the summit (20 cen- 
times). Around the Place de la Bastille stretches the 
Faubourg St. Antoine, considered one of the most dan- 
gerous quarters of Paris. 

LXIV. 
St. Denis, Royal Abbey Church. 
St. Denis may be conveniently reached by the North- 
ern Railway, from the Place Roubaix ; by the Tram- 
way Nord, from the Place de Clichy ; or by carriage — 
the latter far preferable, as the ride is one of the pleas- 
antest out of Paris. In the summer, around St. Denis 
and bordering the road out, stretch many of the gar- 
dens supplying the flowers from which the *' perfumes 
de Paris " are made ; and the perfume is wondrously 



152 Ooing to Paris. 

pleasant, as the scenery is enchanting, for the six miles 
of ride on asphalte. 

The Abbey Church (or cathedral), standing in the 
middle of the old town, is said to stand on the site of a 
chapel built in A. D., 250, in honor of St. Dionysius, or 
St. Denis, the Aeropagite, first bishop of Paris. There 
have since been several replacements j but it seems to be 
admitted that at least a part of the present edifice was 
built by St. Louis, in 1234 to 1284. It early became 
a royal burial-place; and up to the revolution of 1789, 
the dust of nearly all the Kings, since Dagobert (A. D. 
630) had place there. During that revolution, the 
church was pillaged, and most of the royal bones thrown 
into the ditch. It was proposed to demolish the 
building; but Napoleon I. prevented that action, re- 
stored it, and caused the monastery connected to be 
made a school in connection with the Legion of 
Honor. 

The church is cruciform, 378 feet long and 126 feet 
wide. The south portal is closed, and the entrance is 
only at the north. There are some good sculptures at 
the entrances; and the whole church, within, is filled 
with relics and memorials of St. Denis, other saints, 
and Charlemagne and the great warriors of France. 
Most of the tombs are of course, now empty ; but 
many noble and interesting monuments stud the aisles 
and chapels, nearly all royal or noble, and commanding 
continued attention. (Perhaps the most notable of all 
is that of Du Guesclin, constable and great warrior of 
France, died 1380). There are ten modern paintings 
of eminence, relating to the old history of the Abbey, 



A Group of Pi'ominent Clnirches. 153 

to be seen in the Sacristy. The Windows are very 
fine, the stained glass being, however, modern. The 
view from the Tower is a commanding one, over north- 
ern and v/estern Paris and a wide extent of country. 

Historically, Henri IV. (Henri Quatre) here made 
his abjuration of Protestantism, in 1593; and Napoleon 
I. here made his second marriage with Marie Louise 
of Austria, at the High Altar. 

LXV. 
A Group of Prominent Churches. 

A few words are necessary, with reference to a few 
of the many Churches of Paris, not otherwise specially 
alluded to, and having some feature commending them 
to attention. 

St. Germain I'Auxerrois, near the Louvre, is chiefly 
T'Cmarkable for sculptured decorations, much carved 
wood-work, some good stained glass of the 15th and 
16th centuries, and the fact that from its towers is al- 
leged to have been rung the tocsin or signal for the 
massacre of St. Bartholomew, under Charles IX., Aug- 
ust, 1572. 

St. Roch, in the Rue St. Honore, contains many 
monuments and paintings, among others, a noble "St. 
■Roch," by Ary SchefFer, attracting much attention. 
On the steps of this church Bonaparte planted the can- 
non with which he slaughtered the opposing insurgents 
and made his first step to celebrity and power, 13th 
Vendemiare, Oct. 3d, 1795. 

St. Geneveive, [See the Pantheon, L.] 



154 Going to Paris, 

St. Sulpice. Stands on the Place of the same name, 
very near to the Luxembourg; has two magnificent tow- 
ers (of unequal height however), and generally grand 
proportions. It is called the "richest of the churches 
south of the Seine," and is full of chapels with magnifi- 
cent fittings and frescoes, some oil-paintings, and much 
ecclesiastical display. 

St. Clothilde. Stands on the Place Bellchasse, also^ 
on the south side of the Seine. Is in the pointed style 
of the 14th century, with two fine, sharp towers, com- 
manding much attention. It has three portals, with 
pointed gables. Its interior decorations are in marble 
and fresco, and considered very chaste and excellent^ 
The stained glass, sculptures and carved stalls of the 
choir, are all notable. 

St. Tkojnas d'Aquin. Near St. Clothilde, south 
side, has some good paintings and fine frescoes, and a 
portal with elaborately sculptured pediment. 

St. Etienne du Mont. Near the Pantheon, south- 
side. Hasan oddly attractive front, with a renaissance 
portalandtwo unequal towers. Dates from 1517, the 
portal from 1610. Has unusually lofty aisles, with rich 
decorations; and some of the spiral stair-case work, and 
screens, are considered matchless. In it is the Tomb 
of St. Genevieve, with gilded brass of exquisite beauty; 
and it has some noble paintings and monuments of great 
interest. 

St. Germain de Pres. This church, on the Rue 
Bonaparte, south-side, is the oldest in Paris. Built in 
1001 to 1163, in the mingled Romanesque and Goth- 
ic styles. Has not much of interest without, but in the 



A (jrro'iqj of Prominent Cliurches. 155 

interior (restored in 1852-61) are many paintings of 
merit, some fine statuary, and chapels of elaborate or- 
namentation and splendor. 

St. Eustache. This, standing very near the Halles 
Centrales, south side of the Rue Montmartre, is con- 
sidered one of the most important churches in the city. 
It is large, has a mixture of Gothic and renaissance in 
its exterior architecture, and within has noble chapels, 
bearing the arms of their different founders, fine frescoes, 
some interesting monuments, a High Altar in marble, 
and a pulpit of carved wood, among the best in Paris.. 
The organ is especially fine; and the music here given, 
especially on holidays, attracts large attendance as one 
of the features of the fashionable religious world. 

St. Vincent de Paul. This edifice stands on the 
Place Lafayette, near the T'joulvard of same name and 
the Rue St. Lazare. It is modern (1824-1844) ; and 
is peculiarly notable for the twin-towers connected by a 
balustrade with statues. Within, it has the specialty 
of being entirely lighted from above, and the roof sup- 
ported by a circle of imitation porphyry columns. The 
High Altar has a fine ** Crucifixion," in bronze ; and 
there are some noble frescoes and paintings of interest. 

St. Augusiin. This church, also modern, stands on 
the Boulevard Malasherbes, not far from the B. Hauss- 
man. It is in the odd form of a triangle, and has a 
dome 170 feet in height, with a lantern and turrets. 
The portal has three arches, a frieze, and a triangular 
pediment. Much iron was used in the construction, 
doing away with the necessity of many columns, and 
thus clearing the view. The interior has a High Altar 



1^6 Going to Paris. 

of merit, under a sumptuous canopy ; chapels ; and some 
line paintings. 

La Trinitk. This church, near the last named, is on 
the Rue St. Lazare, and is considered one of the most 
pleasing of the many modern churches of Paris. The 
facade is a grand porch, approached by two carriage 
drives. Above the porch is a rise of open-work ; and 
still above rises a clock-tower of 200 feet. The inte- 
rior is singular, but highly interesting from its very od- 
dity ; and in the decorations is to be found much 
sacerdotal richness, with some fine paintings and other 
displays of elaborate art. 

Notre Dame de Lorette. This church, one more of 
the modern, is at the end of the Rue Lafitte, leading to 
the Boulevard Haussman. It is built in the style of the 
Roman basilica, and is outwardly unattractive. Within 
it has a richly-gilded ceiling, with frescoed walls, and is 
considered very showy and the reverse of ordinary edi- 
fices of its kind. Its services are very pompous, and 
attended by many who do not stickle at the forms of 
-splendor. 

The churches here grouped do not compose one- 
fourth of those of Paris ; and many notable ones are 
perforce omitted. But it is beheved that as many have 
been named, as can receive attention from any visitor, 
even in an extended sojourn falling short of residence, 

LXVI. 

Remaining Objects of Special Interest. 
With neither space nor occasion, in the limited space 
of this volume, to note everything of interest in Paris, 



Remaining Objects of Special Interest. 1 5 7 

there yet remain several objects of celebrity, with refer- 
ence to which a mere word. 

The Flace de la Hotel de Ville, as already said, lies 
on the north bank of the Seine, opposite Notre Dame^; 
and is beginning to be called by its old name, that of 
the Place de Greve, which it bore when the guillotine, 
on it, mowed down thousands of French lives, from 
1789 to 1800. The Hotel de Ville, a noble municipal 
building, with a history and valuable contents, was 
burned by the Communist?, in May, 1871. 

The Column in the Flace Vendome stands in the Rue 
de la Paix, near the Tuilleries Gardens by the Rue de 
Castiglione. It was one of the Napoleonic erections of 
triumph, with a Romanized Emperor on the top. The 
insurgents threw it down, 1870-1871 j but it has since 
been re-erected, part or ail the expense of the replace- 
ment being charged to the painter Courbet, who was 
one of the destructionists. 

The Tour St, Jacques, a noble single column of the 
Campanile order, stands at near the foot of the Boule- 
vard Sebastopol, near the Seine and the Place de la Hotel 
de Ville. It is a relic of the Church of St. Jacques de 
la Boucherie, taken down in 1789, when the French 
had no need of churches. The view from the top is 
considered the finest over all Paris. On the ground 
floor is a statue of Pascal, who first tried his experiments 
in atmospheric pressure on its top. 

The Tribunal de Commerce is on the He de la Cite. 
Its principal attraction is the Salle d'Audience, 56 feet 
long and 43 wide, wainscoted with oak, with panels and 
some fine pictures. 



158 Going to Paris, 

The Mint (Hotel des Monnaies) stands on the Quai 
Conti, south side, between the Pont Neuf and the Pont 
des Arts. The collection of coins on view is very large 
and interesting; and there are a great variety of the 
tools and appliances of coining. Admission to the work- 
shop only procurable by writing to the President of the 
Commission of Moneys and Medals, at the same building. 

The J^a?-' din des Plantes is on the Quai St. Bernard, 
on the south side, opposite the Pont d'Austerlitz. It 
has an immense collection of Plants and Animals, with a 
Library and Hot-houses, — and stands among the first of 
its class in the world- It is open daily — the hours not too 
clear. Most of the animals were of cousre eaten up dur- 
ing the winter of 1870—71, but they have been replaced. 

The Institute of France stands on the Quai Conti, 
south side, and presents a strikingly-odd appearance, with 
its dome, and crescent flanks. It was built by Cardinal 
Mazarin, for educationary purposes, on the spot where 
stood the "Tour de Nesle" of the pleasures and crimes 
of Marguerite of Burgundy. It embraces five depart- 
ments ; and it is especially worth visiting from the fact 
that every Frenchman hopes to be a member of it, and 
for its fine Library and interesting Lectures. 

The Hotel Dieu stands on the He de la Cite, and 
is the oldest Hospital in Paris, having been found- 
ed, as is said, by Clovis II., in 660. It has been a 
true and lasting benevolence, but is to be taken down, 
if not already removed, for the Nouvel Hotel Dieu op- 
posite. 

Fontainehleau, a Palace and Park in the suburbs, 
especially notable as having been the favorite residence 



Remainmg Objects of Special Interest. 159 

of Henri Quatre, may be reached in a short ride by 
the Lyons Railway, from the station on Boulevard 
Mazas, or by carriage. The Palace and Park present 
many reminders of Henry II., Francis I., Marie Louise, 
and Napoleon I., who here took leave of the Old 
Guard. The Palace has many fine sculptures and pic- 
tures; and the Etang, or Pond, has some of the noblest 
fish in Europe. The Park has an area of 40,000 acres. 
A day spent here is one to be enjoyed and remembered. 

VincenneSy at the east of Paris, and reached either 
by railway, tramway or carriage (see '^Railways") has 
a wood (the Bois de Vincennes) nearly equal to that of 
Boulogne, though far less fashionable; a smaller wood, 
the Pare; and a Chateau, with the Donjon, a remnant of 
the old prison, one of its leading attractions. 

Asmeres is a pleasure resort of some popularity, 
reached by the railway from St. Lazare station, or by 
boat on the Seine, during the summer. The acquaint- 
ance of the "student" and the ^''grisette," on an out- 
ing, may be made to advantage here, by those who desire 
it. 

LXVH. 
The Exposition and Buildings of 1878. 
The small size and general character of this work 
would render it impossible, even were there a wish in that 
direction, to give any close particulars of the buildings 
occupied by the Exposition of 1878, or of the scope of 
the exhibition contained in them. Any such plan 
is, however, as undesirable as the carrj'ing out would be 
difficult. For visiting the Exposition, some of the local 



i6o Going io Paris. 

hand-books prepared for the occasion will be found in- 
dispensable, not only for use, but to carry away and 
preserve as souvenirs of the great, occasion. All that 
need be said, here, in addition to the intelligence of 
the locality already conveyed, is (i) that most of the 
buildings employed were materially finished during 
1877, giving ample time for concluding touches and ar- 
rangements before the opening of May 1st, 1878; (2) 
that the new main building is a very material departure 
from the ringed-oval of 1867, with many hints derived 
from both the Vienna and Philadelphia buildings of the 
later years, incorporated in the construction ; (3) that 
the new buildings, being square, afford much more- 
space than was employed in 1867, though without the 
special convenience (said to have been an idea of Prince 
Napoleon) of having countries in circles and relative 
exhibits extending across those circles; (4) that there 
will probably be neither occasion nor opportunity for 
so many special national buildings, in the grounds, as 
were to be found in 1867; (5) that very much addi- 
tional and valuable space has been on this occasion made 
available, by taking in the Trocadero, on the opposite 
side of the Seine from the Champ de Mars, and the 
Pont de Jena uniting them, and making both parts of 
the exhibition-grounds ; (6) that the most notable 
building of all, one intended for permanence as well asi- 
for musical gatherings and the deliberations of the 
Commissioners during the Exposition, is the costly, 
elaborate and tasteful Palace of the Trocadero ; (7) that^ 
also on the Trocadero, and in the near vicinity of the 
Palace,will be arranged the grandest artificial Cascade ever 



Excursions and Departures, 161 

yet constructed in any land ; (8) that immense Aquaria, 
surrounding the Palace on the Champ de Mars, are to 
be among the rare features of the occasion; and (9) 
that in covered pavilions on the Esplanade of the Ecole 
Militaire, in the rear of the Champ de Mars, will be 
arranged a collection of live animals of great number 
and completeness. 

In most regards, the Exposition will no doubt be 
quite as complete as that of 1867, and in some far ex- 
celling that display. Notable among the partial absen- 
ces will be that of the German Empire, Both Russia 
and Turkey, spite of the war so long raging between 
them, will be represented. Great Britain will far excel 
any former display beyond her own borders. The 
United States of America will have a limited display, 
both in Art and Manufactures, partially owing to 
cramped space ; and yet the collection (all considered) 
will be found very creditable. All, or nearly all, 
the countries, of Europe, Asia, Africa and America, 
represented in former exhibitions, will appropriately fill 
their places on this occasion. Any other particulars, 
properly falling within the scope of this work, will be 
given in the Appendix, late prepared as possible. 

LXVIII. 
EXCURSIONS AND DEPARTURES. 

Following the same plan pursued in the "Routes to 
Paris" at the commencement of this volume, will now 
be given a few of the Near Excursions from Paris, with 
routes which in many cases will be used for departure, 
after all disposable time has elapsed, or when the great 



i6z Going to Paris. 

gathering has palled upon the taste. Most of the 
routes, however, can only be skeletoned, in the lack of 
space for elaboration. 

LXIX. 

From Paris — to Lyons, Avignon y Marseilles, Nice, 

Monaco, Me?ito?ie, Sc. 
Leave Paris by the Lyons and Mediterranean Railway, 
by stations in reverse of XIV., to Macon, thence by 
Bellville, Villefrance, etc., to 

Lyons, at near the junction of the Rhone and Saone, 
one of the great cities of France, and the first in the 
world in the manufacture of silks, velvets, etc. Some 
100,000 persons are employed in those manufactures, 
Lyons is heavily fortified ; has, in the Place Bellecours, 
the largest public square in Europe ; has one of the 
handsomest Hotels de Ville on the Continent ; the 
Hotel Dieu, Palace of Fine Arts, Church of St. Jean, 
National College, and other great buildings ; with many 
fine Quais and no less than 20 Bridges crossing the two 
rivers \ while its picturesque appearance is materially 
added to by its peculiar location and the gardens and 
vineyards surrounding it. It was the scene of many of 
the worst atrocities of the Revolution of 1789. From 
Lyons, by Valence and other stations, to Avignon, very 
old town on the Rhone, of much historical interest and 
with some attractive old buildings, and the seat of the 
Popes from 1329 to 1377. From Avignon, by Aries, to 

Marseilles, on the Gulf of Lyons, (head of the Medi- 
terranean), chief southern Port of France, and one of 
its most important cities. Part of the Old City is very 



From Paris — to Orleans, Blot's, (§c. 163 

dirty and picturesque, most of the New very clean and 
bright-looking. All nations, tongues and peoples are to 
be heard and seen in the streets, and especially on the 
great Promenade, the Canabiere. It has a noble Hotel 
de Ville ; a Citadel, Forts St. Jean and St. Nicholas; 
and the Chateau d'lf, rendered celebrated by Dumas in 
"'^ Monte Cristo." Only one vessel can enter at a time, 
into a harbor said to be capable of containing 1,700 ! 
The Jews' quarter of Marseilles is among the worst in 
the world. Marseilles is known to have been founded 
by the Phenicians, 2,500 years ago, it being really one 
of the oldest cities in Europe. Its heaviest trade, at 
present, is in oils, wines and human hair, of the latter 
of which it is the great depot of the Continent. 

From Marseilles to Toulon, French depot on the 
Mediterranean, where Napoleon first made himself cele- 
brated ; to Cannes, place of his landing on return from 
Elba; to Nice, the great health-resort of the Mediter- 
ranean coast. From Nice, by steamer, or along the 
Corniche Road, to Monaco, health-resort and gambling- 
centre ; by diligence on the Corniche Road to Mentone, 
prominent health-resort ; to Ventimiglia and St. Remio, 
minor places similarly favored; with option of pursuing^ 
the same route to Genoa and other cities of Italy. 

LXX. 

From Paris — to Orlearis, Blois, Tours, Poitiers, 

Angouleme, Bordeaux, Sc, 

From Paris by the Orleans Railway, by Bretignyf 

to Orleans, on the Loire, one of the oldest and most 

interesting cities of France, founded by the Romans, 



164 Going to Paris, . 

and with an exceptionally interesting history, of whicfe 
the most thrilling incident is the birth there of Joam 
d'Arc, the "Maid of Orleans." From Orleans to Blots,. 
with old Royal Chateau of prominence; and by Limeray 
to Amboise, another Royal Chateau of interest. From 
Limeray to St. Pierre des Corps and Tours, of Roman, 
foundation and much prominence in history. From Tours 
may be visited Scmmur, Chinon, the Abbey of Fonte- 
vrault (hnridX '^\2ice.'o^ mzny of the English-Norman 
Kings, among others Richard Coeur de Lion); Poitiers^. 
and the battle-field of that name ; Angouleme, and the 
great commercial town and seaport of Bordeaux, on 
the Garonne, near the sea. From Bordeaux, by La 
Teste route may be pursued to Bayonne, to Spain, and> 
the Western Mediterranean. 

LXXL 
From Paris— to Chartres, Le Mans, Nantes and St.. 
Nazaire. 
From Paris, from Montparnasse Station, by Ver-- 
sailles, St. Cyr and Epernon, to Chartres, with fine 
Cathedral in which St. Bernard preached the second 
crusade; to Le Mans ) to Angers, old capital of the; 
duchy of Anjou (whence route may be taken, by Ren- 
nes and Morlaix, to Brest); to Nantes, important sea- 
port of France, on the Loire; and to St. Nazaire, at the 
mouth of the Loire, with heavy shipping trade to the. 
West Indies, &c. 



From Paris — to N'evers, 3foulins, c€*c. 165 

LXXII 

From Paris — to Never s, Moulins, St. Germain-des- 

Fosses, Vichy, and Le Puy. 

From Paris by Lyons and Mediterranean Railway, 
reverse of XIV., to Dijon, Epignac, Autun and other sta- 
tions, by Creusot (great iron, steel and arms manufactory 
ofSchneider & Co.); by Nevers (old capital of the Ni- 
vernois, with fine Cathedral and heavy manufactures 
in iron, steel &c., in the La Chaussade Foundry of 
Fourchambault ;) to Moulins and St. Germain-des- 
Fosses', and to Vichy, celebrated bathing place and 
health-resort, and place of origin of the Vichy water 
sold over the world. (Has many springs. Thermal Es- 
tablishment, Park, Casino, &c., and great attractions as 
well as celebrity.) 

From Vichy route may be taken to Geneva, for 
Switzerland and Italy; or to Le Puy, on the southern 
slope of Mt. Cenis, with fine mountain scenery and a 
Cathedral, holding the remains of the notable warrior, 
Bertrand Du Guesclin, and others, 

'[Another route may be taken to Vichy, by Orleans 
-(as in LXX), Vurzon Junction, Chateauroux, Nevers 
-and Moulins; then as in the previous route.] 

LXXIII. 
From Paris — to St. Ramlert, Rives and GrenoUe. 
From Paris to Lyons, as by LXIX. From Lyons by 
St. Ramhert, Beaurepaire, Cote St. Andre and Rives, 
to Grenoble, fortified city of importance, with a Ca- 
thedral, heavy glove and other manufactures, &c. 



'i66 Going to Paris. 

[From Grenoble, brief route by rail to St. Michely 
the Mt. Cenis TumieA, and that route to Italy.] 

LXXIV. 

From Paris — to the Mt. Cents Tunnel, Aix le BainSy 
Climnbery and Annecy. 
From Paris to Culoz, reversal of XIV. From Cu- 
loz to Aix le Bains, celebrated bathing-place of Savoy, 
(branch rail to Annecy, important manufacturing 
tou^n, with many antiquities.) Direct route from Aix 
le Bains to Chambery , episcopal city, with Cathedral, 
&c. From Chambery by Montmelia?i, Chamoussett^ 
St. Jean de Maurienne, kc-, to St. Michel, in the Mau- 
rienne Valley, entrance to the Mt. Cenis Tunnel for 
Italy and the Mediterranean. 

LXXV. 
From Paris — to Beauvais and Gournay, 
From Paris to Creil, reverse of II. From Creil, by 
Mouy-Bury, Rochy-Conde and other stations, to Beau- 
vais, the seat of a bishopric; with many manufactures, 
and the memory of having been defended against the 
English in 1443, and against Charles the Bold, of Bur- 
gundy, 1472, by a woman, "Jean LaHachette." From 
Beauvais to Gournay, on the Epte, with important 
chalybeate springs, 27 miles E. oi Rouen, with pleasant 
xide across country to that old Roman capital. 



From Paris— to Poitiers, Niort, i&c. 167 
LXXVI. 

From Paris — to Poitiers, Niort, Rochelle and Roche- 
fort. 
From Paris by the Orleans Railway to Orleans and 
Poitiers, as in LXX. From Poitiers, by branch rail 
from that to Bordeaux, by Niort to Rochelle, fortified 
seaport at the mouth of the Charente, with heavy ma- 
rine trade and the history of having been besieged and 
taken by Richelieu, in 1620, from the Protestants who 
held it ; and Rochefort, heavily fortified and the third 
military port in France, nearly opposite Rochelle, on 
the southern side of the wide mouth of the Charente. 

LXXVII. 
From Paris — to Corbeil, Malaslierhes and Montar- 
gis. 
From Paris by the Lyons and Mediterranean Rail- 
way, by other stations to Corbeil (on the Seine, at its 
junction with the Essonne, and at the head of a branch 
of the Paris and Orleans Railway.) From Corbeil, by 
Mennecy, Ballancourt and other stations, to Malas- 
herbes (commercial and market town, on the Essonne), 
and by Pidseaux, and Beaune-la-Roi, to Montargis, 
at the junction of the Canals Briare and Loing, 38 m. E. 
of Orleans, and enjoying considerable trade from that sit- 
uation ; but perhaps attracting more attention from its 
name than for any other cause, under the general belief 
that it is the place giving partial name to the well- 
known play, '* The Dog of Montargis." The real scene 
of that play, meanwhile, lies at and around the old 



i68 Going to Paris. 

Forest of Bandy, near the village of the same name, 
only 7 m. E. N. E. of Paris. 

LXXVIII. 

From Paris-^-to Charles, Le Mans, Rejines, dec, to 
Brest. 
Leave Paris by Chartres, and Le Mans (as in LXXI,, 
for Angers, Nantes, etc). From Le Mans, by various 
stations, to Laval', thence by Vitre and other stations 
to Rennes, (the antique Condate, a tov/n of importance 
on the Vilaine and Ille, with a Cathedral, a College, 
Schools, extensive Library, a tribunal of commerce, 
and a trade of considerable extent ; to St. Brieuc, 
Guingamp ; Morlaix, St. Thegonnec and Landerneau 
(railway connection to O^uimper, capital of Finisterre, 
and with a small port but considerable manufactures, on 
the Odet, ten miles from the Atlantic), to Brest, one of 
the most important seaports of France, and the first of 
her naval ports. It has an immense double harbor and 
strong fortifications; the Bay communicating with the 
Atlantic by a Strait called ^' Goulet," difficult of access. 
The city, which is built on sloping hills, is divided by 
the port into two parts, only communicating by boats; 
that on the right or north is called the Recouvrance. 
The commerce of Brest is very limited; 'though maay 
passengers pass through it on landing from American 
steamers, which sometimes call here regularly. Mary 
Queen of Scots landed here in 1548;- and the city was 
occupied by the English in 1372, 1378 and 1397, and 
attacked without success by the Spaniards in 1597 and 
the English in 1694 



Froin Far Is — to Doual &c. 169 

LXXIX. 

From Paris — to Douai, Vale^iciennes, Lille <f c, to 

Ghent. 

From Paris bv rail of the Nord, (as for Calais — see 
II.), to Amiens. Amiens by other stations to Arras, 
to Douai, another fortified town on the Scarpe, with 
an Arsenal, a cannon-foundry and considerable manu- 
factures, but far more celebrity as having given birth 
and name, long since, to that edition of Romanist Scrip- 
tures known as the " Douay Bible." (From Douai, run 
may be made, eastward, to 

Valenciennes, a French fortified town of the first-class, 
lying on the Scheldt, 27 m, S. E. of Lille. It has a 
Citadel, on an Island in the Scheldt; a fine town haU 
and very tall belfry ; churches, hospitals, and many and 
valuable manufactures. Perhaps its greatest celebrity, 
however, is derived from its old fabrication of the well- 
known lace bearing the name — a trade now very much 
decayed and nearly extinct. It was taken in 1793 by 
the English and Austrians, but soon restored to France.) 
(From Valenciennes, route may be continued, direct to 
Brussels.) 

From Douai, route may be pursued direct to 

Lille, (originally L'Isle), an important fortified and 
manufacturing city of France, on the Deule (a canal 
connecting the Scarpe and Lys rivers), 26 m, N. N. E. 
of Arras, and 67 m. S. W. of Calais. It has a strong 
citadel, and seven gates, with barracks and magazines on 
the N. W. side. Among the principal buildings are 
the Bourse, Medical School (formerly Palace of Rich- 



lyo Going to Paris, 

bourg,) with famous collections of drawings by Raphael 
and dthers, Hotel de Ville, Churches, commercial 
structures, &c. A fine esplanade runs along part of the 
canal, called the Middle Deule ; and near it is the 
handsome bridge, the Pont Royal. Lille is the head- 
quarters of a military division, and is one of the chief 
seats of manufactures of textile and many other goods, 
threads, laces, gloves, &c., in France. The town be- 
longed, in succession, to the Counts of Flanders, Earls 
and Dukes of Burgundy, and Kings of France ; 
was finally annexed to the French dominions by Louis 
XIV. in 1667. It was captured by the Allies under 
the Duke of Marlborough, 1708, and unsuccessfully 
bombarded by the Austrians in 1792. From Lille, 
route may be pursued, by Moitscron and other stations, 
to 

Ghent, important fortified town of Flanders, now 
Belgium (alternately known as Gand), at the conflu- 
ence of the Scheldt and the Lys, and at the head of 
the railway pursued. It has walls 7 or 8 m. in cir- 
cumference, with 7 gates, and it is intersected by nu- 
merous canals, dividing it into 26 islands, with 309 
bridges. It has principally wide streets, with 13 
squares. Its principal structures are the Cathedral; the 
celebrated University, with large library; the church of 
St. Michael, containing the famous "^Crucifixion," by 
Van Dyk ; the **Grand Beguinage,'' a convent of vast 
extent ; and a large array of other public buildings, 
Ghent is an archbishop's see, residence of the military 
commandant, has a chamber of commerce, and other 
tribunals and educational and charitable institutions. 



From Paris — to Soissons, (&c, ijt 

Few cities of the continent have larger or more mis- 
cellaneous manufactures, ranging through all varieties oF 
dry and wet goods. It has docks for ship-building,, 
and is connected by canals with Bruges and Ter- 
monde. The history of Ghent has been very ex- 
tensive and imposing. It was pillaged by the Danes, 
when repulsed from England in the time of Alfred the 
Great. It bore important part in the Flemish and 
Spanish wars and other troubles, through several cen- 
turies; and in connection, the " Butchers of Ghent"' 
were long a recognized and dreaded power, as illustra- 
ting the might of the banded trades. In the i6th cen- 
tury it was the capital of Austrian Flanders; and from 
1/93 ^^ ^ 3 Hj under French rule, it was the capital of 
the department of the Scheldt. 

From Ghent, direct route may be ursue to Ant- 
werp or to Brussels. 

LXXX. 
From Paris — to Soissons, EJieims, 3fezieres, Charle- 
ville, Sedan and Metz. 
From Paris by Dammartin and other stations ta 
Soissons, a fortified town on the left bank of the Aisne, 
with the Canal of Soissons, 16 miles long, connecting 
with the Ourcq and the Marne; with a cathedral, a 
college and many other buildings of importance, some 
trade in grain, and a royal history dating back to the 
very commencement of the French monarchy. King 
Clovis made it his residence, at the commencement of 
his reign ; and under some of his descendants it was the 
capital of a separate kingdom — really a "county" or the 



172 Going to Paris. 

dominion of a Count, something of royalty afterwards 
remaining with the title of '^ Count of Soissons," gen- 
erally or always belonging to the royal family. The 
Emperor Louis le Debonnaire was imprisoned, in the 
convent of St. Medard, here, in the ninth century. From 
Soissons by Rheims (see XII), Rethtl, Charlevilie (on 
the Meuse, separated from Mezieres by that river, and 
connected with it by a suspension-bridge) and Givet, to 
Sedan, a fortified town of France, on the Meuse, 1 1 
m. E. S. E. of Mezieres. It has a citadel, with large 
arsenal ; has great manufactures of woolen and heavy 
goods, and a considerable trade. Sedan was long an 
independent principality, united to France under Louis 
XIII. A monument stands here to Marshal Turenne, 
born here in 1611. But all other points of interest con- 
nected with the town, are dwarfed by the recollection 
that at Sedan, in the autumn of I 870, Napoleon III, 
Emperor of the French, surrendered his army and him- 
self to the Germans, and laid down the power which he 
had held from 1851-2. 

From Sedan, by Bazeilles and other stations to Car- 
ignan, on the Chiers, 22 m. E. S. E. of Mezieres* 
Montmedy , (also on the Chieres, heavily fortified and 
with considerable manufactures) ; Longuyon and many 
other stations to Thionville (a fortified town of Impor- 
tance on the left bank of the Moselle, with the mineral 
baths of Chauds-Bourg near, some manufactures, the 
history of having supplied residence to the Merovingian 
and Carloviiigian Kings, and very important connection 
with the Franco-Prussian war of 1870-1871. From 
Thionville (whence connection north-eastv/ard to Lux- 



From Paris — to Creil, Amiens, dec. 173 

<ynbourg) to Metz, a strongly fortified town of Ger- 
many, lately of France, at the confluence of the Moselle 
and Seille, 170 m. E. of Paris. It has a citadel, with 
immense armory, many other military buildings and 
appointments, an university-academy and other public 
buildings, and many manufactures. It shared with 
Strasbourg and Sedan in the heavy misfortunes (for 
France) .of the Franco-Prussian war, having been sur- 
rendered, by Marshal Bazaine, to the Germans, on Oct. 
27th, 1870. It is only just to say, however, that in 
the 10th century Metz had been a free imperial city 
of Germany. 

LXXXI. 

From Paris — to Creil, A?nie7is, Abbeville, and Ca'^ 
lais. {And to Dover and London). 
See II., and reverse. 

LXXXII. 
From, Paris — to Creil, Amiens, Ahheville and Bou- 
log7ie. {And to Folkestone and London^ 
See III., and reverse. 

LXXXIIL 

From Paris — to Conflans, Mantes, Rouen, Mo7ivill$, 

Cleres, Lo7igueville and Dieppe. {And to Newhaven 

and London.) 

See IV., and reverse. 

LXXXIV. 
From Paris, — to Rouen, Ivetot, BouzevilU and 
Havre. {And to Southam2Jto7i and London.) 
See v., and reverse. 



174- Qoing to Paris. 

LXXXV. 

From Paris — to Mantes, Evreux, Bernay, Liseux, 
Caen, Bayeux, Valognes ojid Cherdourg. {And to 
Southampton and London) 
See VI., and reverse. 

LXXXVI. 

From Paris-^to Havre and Honfleur. [And to 
Littlehampton and London.) 
See VII and V., and reverse- 

LXXXVII. 

From Paris — to Boulogne. (And direct Steamer to 
London.) 
See VIII. and III., and reverse. 

LXXXVIII. 

From Paris— for Amiens, Arras, Douai, Valen- 
ciennes, Mons and Brttssels. 
See X. and IL, and reverse. 

LXXXIX. 

From Paris — -for Mauheuge, Feignies, Quevy, 
Mons and Brussels, 
See X., and reverse. 

XC. 

From Paris— for Creil, Compeigne, St. Quentin, 
Aulnoye, Erquilines, Charleroi, Namur, Liege, 

Aix-la-Chapelle, Verviers and Cologne. 
See XI., and reverse. 



Fro7n Paris — for Rheinis, i&c, 175 

XCI. 

Frmn Paris— for Rhemis, Chateau- Thierry, Meaux, 
Epernay, Chalons sur-Marne, Nancy, Luneville, 
Strasbourg, Kehl, Carlsruhe and Baden-Baden. 
See XII,, and reverse. 

XCII. 

From Paris— for Troyes, Langres, Belforty Mul- 
house and Basle. 
See XII., and reverse. 

xcrii. 

From Paris— for Melun, Fontainedleau, Montereau, 
Sens, Tonnerre, Dijon, Chalons-sur-Saone, Macon, 
Bourg, Amherieux, Culoz, Bellegavde and Geneva. 
See XIV., and reverse. 



176 Goioig to Paris. 

APPENDIX 
XCIV. 
Bad French for the Uninitiated. 
[It is not expected that, during the visit to Paris, of 
the resident of any of the non-French speaking coun- 
tries, the language of that city and the country sur- 
rounding it will be learned to any great extent, or that 
sufficient command of it will even be acquired to ena- 
ble one previously ignorant to transact business in that 
vernacular. Enough can be learned, however, within 
a very limited period, to make traveling less lonesome 
than it must needs be when the traveler understands- 
nothing of the language of the country through which 
he is passing — to enable him to read signs, observe di- 
rections, study the names of places, and transact some 
of the ordinary operations connected with his routes- 
and stoppages. As already said in another connection,. 
English is spoken very widely if not generally, in France 
and the French-speaking provinces adjoining it ; but 
even a moderate acquaintance with prominent words, 
will be found useful, in the event of the tourist being acci- 
dently placed where he finds neither English nor inter- 
preter. For the benefit of such — here rudely called 
*' The Uninitiated," the few following pages are in- 
tended ; and with intelligent use of them much may be 
accomplished. Three divisions are maintained through- 
out, however placed : English, French_, and the French 
nearly as it is made to sound in speaking.] 



Bad French, 



^77 



MONTHS OF THE YEAR AND DAYS OF THE WEEK. 



BNQUSH. 


FRENCH. 


PRONOTJNCBU. 


January, 


Janvier, 


Jhonvay. 


February, 


Fevrier^ 


Fevray. 


March, 


Mars, 


Marrs. 


April, 


AvrU, 


AhvreeL 


May, 


Mai, 


Myee. 


June, 


Juin, 


Jhuan. 


July, 


Juillet, 


Jhuelay. 


August, 


Aout, 


Ah-oo. 


September, 


Septembre, 


Septombr. 


October, 


Ociodre, 


Octobr. 


November, 


Novembre, 


Novombr. 


December, 


Decembre, 


Daysombr. 


Monday, 


Lundi, 


Loondee. 


Tuesday, 


Mardi, 


Mardee. 


Wednesday, 


Mercredi, 


Mayrcraydee^ 


Thursday, 


Jeudi, 


Jhudee. 


Friday, 


Vendredi, 


Vondrayde«. 


Saturday, 


Samedi, 


Somdee. 


Sunday, 


Dimanch*, 


Deemoushee 




NUMERALS AND 


ORDINALS. 


One, 


Un, 


con. 


Two, 


Deux, 


den. 


Three, 


Trois, 


trwa. 


Four, 


Quatre, 


Kawtr. 


FiTe, 


Cingueordnq, 


sankg. 


Six, 


Six, 


ZiSB. 


Seven, 


Sept, 


set. 


Eight, 


Euit, 


wheet. 


Nine, 


Neuf, 


noof. 


Ten, 


Dix, 


diss. 


Eleven, 


Ome, 


on&. 


Twelve. 


Douze, 


doos. 


Thirteen, 


Trdze, 


trayz. 


Fourteen 


Quatorze, 


kahtora. 


Fifteen, 


Quime, 


kanz. 


Sixteen, 


Seize, 


sayz. 


Seventeesi 


Dix-sept, 


diss- set 


Eighteen, 


Dix-hvU 


diBs-whe«^ 


Nineteen, 


Dix-neuf, 


diss-noot 


Twenty, 


Ttngt, 


vant 


Thirty, 


Treate, 


troni. 



lyS 



Ooing to Paris. 



■iraLua. 


FRENCH. 


PRONTTNOTATKML 


Forty. 


Quarante, 


karont. 


Fifty, 


Cinqicante, 


sankant. 


Sixty, 


Soixante, 


swassant. 


Seventy, 


Soixante-dix, 


swassant-dias. 


Eighty, 


Qicatre-vingt., 


kawt-vant. 


Ninety, 


Quatre-vingi-dix, 


kawt-vant-di8B, 


One Hundred, 


Cent, 


eawnt. 


One Thoueand, 


Un MiUe, 


oon meel. 


One Million, 


Un IMim, 


con meelyong. 


First, 


Premier (e, fern.), 


prem-yare. 


Second, 


Second (e, fern.). 


se-koud. 


do.. 


Deuxieme, 


dyoozhee-em 


Third, 


Tromeme, 


trwazee-em. 


Fourth, 


Quatn^me, 


kawtree-em. 


Fifth, 


Cinqv.ilme, 


sawnkee-enx. 


Sixth, 


Sixieme, 


zissee-em. 


Seventh, 


Septienie, 


Bcttee-em. 


Eighth, 


Huiiieme, 


wheetee-em. 


Ninth, 


Neuvieme, 


Doovee-em. 


Tenth, 


Dixierm, 


dizzee-em. 


Eleventh, 


Onzi^me, 


onzee-em. 


Tv/elfth, 


Douzierm, 


dooze-em. 


Thirteenth, 


Treizieme, 


treze-em. 


Fourteenthi, 


Quatm^i^me, 


katorzee-em. 


Fifteenth, 


Quinzi^me, 


kanzee-em. 


Sixteenth, 


Seizeihne, 


eeezee-em. 


Seventeenth, 


Dix-septiime, 


diBsitee-em. 


Eighteenth, 


Dix-huitame, 


disswheeie-em. 


Nineteenth, 


Bix-neuvihne. 


dissnovee-em. 


Twentieth, 


Vingtieme, 


vantee-em. 


Thirtieth, 


Trentihm, 


trontee-em. 


Fortieth, 


Quarantieme, 

etc., etc., etc 


karontee-em. 



A FEW NAMES OF VERY COBOrON OBJECTS AND 
PERSONS. 



The bread. 

The salt. 
Some butter, 
A knife, 
A fork. 
The dish, 



( With differ eiit prefixes.] 



Lepain, 

Lesel, 

Du beurre, 

Un couteau, 

Une/ourohstUf 

Vasstette^ 



ieh pan. 
leh Bel. 
deuh fcorr. 
oon cohto. 
oon forchec 
V ashyet 



Bad French, 



179 



EK9USH. 

Anapkia, 

The eggs. 

Beef, 

Roast beef. 

Some poLatoeB, 

Oysters, 

Mutton 

Veal, 

Some >»ork. 

Some cLerrws, 

The table-, 

Pepper, 

Mustard, 

That chnrch 

This street. 

The etreet-comei, 

A bottle, 

The goblet (giftss), 

A cup. 

Some cofiee, 

A cup of tea, 

A big fi?h, 

The little dog. 

My soup. 

Your brandy. 

Our cucumbers, 

A spoon, 

The carriage, 

The railway, 

The shoes, 

A pair of boots, 

A coat, 

The trowsers, 

A new vest, 

The waiter. 

The prison, 

The doctor, 

do 
The hotel, 
A stairway, 
A bed. 

The bed-chamber, 
A furniehed room, 
A becf-eteak, 
A beef-steak well done, 
do rare done. 



phench. 

Une serviette, 
Des ceu/s, 
Le.hce,ufy 
Bosbif, 

Dei^ pommes de terre, 
Les huUrbs^ 
Le moulon, 
Le veau, 
Duporc, 
Quelgm cerises. 
La table, 
Lepoivre, 
La riu/utarde, 
Cette eglise, 
Cette rue d, 
Le coin de la rue, 
Une bouteille, 
IjB verre, 
Une tasse. 
Da cafe, 
XJns tasse de the, 
Un gros poisson, 
Le mtit chien, 
Man potage. 
Voire eau de vie, 
Nos concombres, 
Une cuiller. 
La voiture, 
Le chemin defer, 
Les souliers, 
Une pair de bottes, 
Un habit, 
Les culottes 
Un gilei nouveau, 
Le gargon. 
La prison, 
Ledocteur, 
Le medecin, 
Vhotel, 
Un escalier, 
Un lit. 

La chambre a cowher, 
Une charhbre gamie, 
Un biflek, 
Un bifted bien cuit, 
do saignant. 



PRONTmCIATIOH. 

oon survyet. 
dez ufe. 
leh beflf. 
r-r-oasbif. 
day pom deh tair, 
lez weeter. 
leh mootong. 
leh vo. 
deuh pork, 
keike sareese. 
lab tahble. 
leh pwavr. 
lah mootard. 
set eeglees. 
set reuw see 
leh quan deh lah too, 
ooa bootyee. 
leh verr. 
oon tas. 
deuh caffay, 
ooii tas deh tay. 
oon gro pwasson. 
leh paytee sheeoii. 
mon po-tahj. 
vootr o devee. 
no coiicombr. 
oon koolyare. 
lah vwateur, 
leh Bhainan deh fiilr, 
lay solyair. 
oon piar day boat. 
oon abbee. 
lay cooloat, 
oon jelay novo. 
leh garsoon. 
lah pre-zon. 
leh docterr. 
leh maydeesan. 
lotel. 

oon eskalyay. 
oon lee. 

leh shambr ah cooeh^. 
oon shambr gamee. 
oon biftek. 

oon biftek beyon quea, 
do eagnyong. 



i8o 



Going to Paris. 



XNOLiaH. 

Fried potatoes, 

A looklsg-glaes. 

An umbrella, 

Thomas's hat, 

The other horse, 

Wine, 

Some water. 

The comb. 

The window, 

The door, 

A great house, 

The porter. 

Breakfast, 

Dinner. 

Supper, 

A handkerchief. 

The watch, 

A little clock, 

A room, 

Our gloves. 

The shirts, 

A trunk. 

My basket. 

The theatre, 

A theatre-box. 

Reserved seats, 

A seat in the theatre, 

A ticket of admission. 

The porter, 

A chamber maid, 

Meats, 

The baggage. 

An attendant, 

A body servant. 



FBBKCIL 

Bommes de terrefrites, 

Un miroir, 

Oon parapluie, 

Le chapeau de Thomas^ 

Ii autre cfieval, 

Le vin, 

De Veau, 

Le peigne, 

Lafenetre, 

La porte, 

Vhe graride maison, 

Leportier, 

Le d^euner^ 

Le diner ^ 

Le semper^ 

Un numcfioir^ 

La montre^ 

Une petite cloche, 

Un appartement^ 

Nos gants, 

Les chemises^ 

Une malle, 

Mon pannier, 

Le theatre, 

Une loge de theatre. 

Places numerotees 

Un place au theatre, 

Un billet d' entree, 

Le concierge, 

Une femrm de chaambre, 

Viandes, 

Le bagage, 

Un valet de place. 

Un valet de chambre. 



PBONUNCIATMW, 

pom de tayr fretB. 

oon meerwa. 

oon paraplu. 

leh shappo deb TomaR, 

lotr Bhayvol. 

leh van. 

deUo. 

leh pine. 

lah £aynayter. 

]ah poart. 

oon grond mlyeson, 

leh portya. 

leh dejunay. 

leh deenay. 

leh soopay. 

oon mooshwar. 

lah montr. 

oon patee cloaah. 

oon appartmawngp^ 

no gawnt. 

la shem-eese'. 

oon mal. 

mawng panya. 

lah teeatr. 

oon loaj deb teeatr. 

plass numayroatay. 

oon plass oh teeatr. 

oon beyea dawnttay» 

leh consairghe. 

von fam deh chambre. 

veeond, 

leh bahgah?}. 

oon vallee deh plass. 

oon vallee deh shombr. 



QUESTIONS, ANSWERS AND INQinRIES, OFTENBST 

TJSEFUL. 

Railway Travelling, 

[To buy a ticket, etc., at the office,] 

ftuvKLLBB.— if<»wfeur, je desire un biOet pour Parts. (Pronounced : JiIm 
dayseer oon beyea poor Parreese. EngUeh : Sir, I wish a ticket tt 
fteis.) 



Bad French. 181 

TiOK!n'8vLLBii.—Ceriainement, Monsieur; qu^elle dasse voulez wuaf 
(Pro. Sertanmong, 'Mossiew; kel clahs voolay voo? Eng. Certainlj, 
sir ; what class will you have ?) 

Tvxr.—Qu'd est le prix des places ? {Pro. Kel ay leh pree da plass. Eng. 
What is the price of places.) 

TiCKBT-S.— Z«s premieres content dnqitant^ francs, et les secondes trente 
francs. (Pro. La prameyer cootont sankont fronk, ay la segond tront 
fronk. Eng. The first cost fifty francs, the second thirty.) 

'TBj.y.—Donnez moi les secondes, s'il vous plait. (Pro. Donneh mwa lay ee- 
c^ond, seel voo play. Eng. Give me the second, if you please.) 

TicKET-S.—Combzen de places. Monsieur .^ (Pro. Combeyon deh plass, Mos- 
siew. Eng. How many places, sir ?) 

TKJi.v.— Une pour moi seutement. (iVo. Oon poor mwa, soolmawng. Eng. 
One for myself only.) 

TicKST-S.— Void, Monsieur. (Pro. Wahsee, Mossiew. Eng. Here It to, 
•It.) 

[Making Inquiries.^ 

4I1TB8TION.— vl gu'eUe 7ieu7'e part le train pour Paris t (Pro. Ah kel cor par 

leh tran poor Parree? Eng. At what hour does the train start foi 

Paris ?) 
Akswek.— Zi« train part d dix heures. (Pro. Leh tran par tah dee soor. JE!ng. 

The train leaves at ten o'clock.) 
^v.—Ou nous arreterons nous pour dinlr? (Pro. Oo noo sarrayteron noo 

poor denay ? Eng. Where do we stop for dinner ? 
Ans.— J. Rouen, Monsieur. (Pro. Ah Ruan, Mossiew. Eng. At Rouen, 

sir.) 
i),u.—CGmdien de temps s" ai^-ete-t-on id? (Pro. Combeyon deh torn sah 

raj'teton esee ? Eng. How long time do we stop here ?) 
Ans. — yingt minutes d' arret. (Pro. Vant meenwheet darray. Mng. 

Twenty minutes of stoppage.) 
Qu.— J. qu'elle heure partlrons nous? (Pro. Ah kel oor parteron noot 

Eng. At what hour do we start ?) 
AJKB.—Pans guinze minutes. Monsieur. (Pro. Dawn kanz meenwheet, Mos 

slew. Eng. In fifteen minutes, sir.) 
^xj.—Est ce le train pour Dijon f (Pro. Ay see leh tran poor Deejzhon • 

Eng. Is this the train for Dijon ?) 
huB.—Non, Monsieur ; ce train est dix minutes en retard. (Pro. Non- 

Mossiew ; seh tran a dee meenwheet on raytard. Eng. No, sir; that 

train is ten minutes behind.) 
Ass.— Out, Monsieur ; ce train en droit. (Pro. Wee, Mossiew ; set trsB 

on drwat. Eng. Yes, sir ; that train on the right.) 
<lxj.—Ghangeons nous a la prochaine station ? (Pro. Shonjayon noo an 

lah proshain stahshon ? En^. Do we change at the next station ?) 
Aks.— iVbn, Monsieur; le premier change est a Bdlegarde. Pro. N«Dg. 



182 



Going to Paris. 



Mossiew; leh premj^a shonje es tab Belgard. Eng. No, eir: the llnS 

change is at Bellegarde.) 

[ Warnings and Demands.'] 

QvAXD OR l?ov(,T:Eit,.— Monsieur a-t-ii d'avantage de bagagef {Pro. Mos- 
Biew ah teel dah vantahzj deh bahgahzj ? Eng. Has the gentlemaB 
any more baggage ?) 

Tbav.— iVo», Monsieur— tout le bagage est dans la voiture. {Pro. Nong, 
Mossiew— too leh bahgahzj ay dawn lah vwahteur. Eng. No, sir— all 
the luggage [American, " baggage "] is in the carriage.) 

Guard.— Fos hUlets, Mesdamee et Messieurs. {Pro. Vo beyea, Maydam ay 
Messiew. Eng. Your tickets, ladies and gentlemen.) 

QvKwn.—En voiture. Messieurs!— en voiture! {Pro. On vwahteur, Mes- 
siew ! — on vwahteur ! Eng. Take your carriages, gentlemen I) 

GvxBJi.—En voiture, de suite. Messieurs, s'il vous 2)lait ! {Pro. On vwateur, 
deh sweet, Messiew, seel voo play I Eng. Take your carriages, gen- 
tlemen, in a hurry, if you please I) 

QiVKKO.— Change de voitures. Messieurs] {Pro. Shonjay deh vwateur^ 
Messiew ! Eng. Change carriages, gentlemen 1) 



Taking Carriages and Hiding, 

Tra.\.— {To Cabman, on stand) Cocker, ete vous libre? {Pro. Ooehay, ettay 

voo leebr? Eng. Cabman, are you free? [disengaged.] 
Cabman.— iVo/i, Monsieur, f attends quelqiCun. {Pro. Nong, Mossiew 

zjahttond kelkoon. Eng. No, sir ; I am waiting for some one.) 
Cabman.— (9wz, Monsieur— je mis libre. {Pro. Wee, Mossiew, Jeh swee 

leebr. Eng, Yes, sir, I am disengaged.) 
Tr.\.y. —Donnez mois voire carte. Pro. Donneh mwa voatr cart. Eng. 

Give me your card — i. e., the card of prices which all French cabmen 

carry with them.) 
Trav.— Je vous prends a la course. {Pro. Je voo prand ah lah coorse. 

Eng. I engage you for the route to which I wish to go.) Or, 
Trav.— Je vous prends a Vheure. {Pro. Je voo prend ah loor. Eng. I take 

you by the hour. 
Cajruan.— Oufaut-il vous conduire Monsieur .? {Pro. Oo fo teel voo con 

dweer Mossiew ? Eng. Where does tlie gentleman wish to be taken f 
Trav. Au Grand Rotel ; or, au Boulevard Poissonniere, nunuro cinqnant^ 

huit. {Pro. Oh Gron Dotel; or, oh Boolevard Pwassonyer, numero 

sankont-wheet. Eng. To the Grand Hotel ; or, to the Boulevard Poi»- 

soniere, number fifty-eight.) 
TUAY.—Allez! {Pro. Allay 1 Eng. Grooni) 
TnAV.—Marchez! marchez! {Pro. Marshayl marshayl Eng. Faaierl 

fester!) 



Bad French. 183 

TiUT.--Pas si vite! or, Allez plus doucement! {Pro. Pah se voet; <» 

allay ploo doosmong. Eng. Go more slowly.) 
Tbav. (When getting out of the cab, to have It y}dM)—Attend€z mot id: 

je vais revenir ; or, je reviens dans quelque minutes. {Pro. Je vay 

rayvaneer ; or, je rayveeon dawn kelk meenwheet. Eng. Wait for me 

here I will return ; or, I will return in a few minutCB.) 
Cabman.— J/<w?. argent., Morosieur! {Pro. Mong arjong, Mossiew I Eng 

My money, eir ! 
Thav. —Vmci. {Pro. Vwassee. Eng. Here it is.) 
Cabua:s.—PIus encore le pour boire. Monsieur ! {Pro. Ploo eaucoar leta 

poor bwar, Mossiew I Eng. More yet, sir ; the drink-money !) 
TRAy.— Combien de pour hoire? {Pro. Combeyon deh poor bwar? Eng, 

How much drink-money ?) 
Tbav.— Ce n'est pas possible de payer rien de phis. {Pro. Ce nay pah po»- 

eeebl deh paya reeon deh ploo. Eng. It is not possible [for me] to 

pay any thing more.) 
IVihM.—Arrf.tez'. or, arretez vous, cocher ! {Pro. arraytay; or, arraytay 

vons, coshay. Eng. Stop 1 or, stop, coachman.) 

Eating and Drinking, 

Orders to Waiters.— (rarf on, faites moi servir. {Pro. Qaheoon, feyt 
mwa sareveer. Eng. Waiter, attend on me.) Je desire diner. {Pro. 
Je deseer deenay. Eng. I wish dinner.) Donnez moi du potage a la 
Julienne. {Pro. Donnay mwa deuh potahj ah lah Jzhulion. ^g. Give 
me some soup a ]a Julienne.) Du rosUf Men cuit. (Pro. Deuh roosbif 
beeyon quee. Eng. Some roast-beef well done.) Du rosbif saignard. 
{Pro. Deuh roasbif sainyong. Eng. Some roast-beef rare.) Du pore 
roti. {Pro. Deuh pork roatee. Eng. Some roast pork.) Du pain. 
{Pro. Deuh pan. Eng. Some bread.) Encore un peu plus de beurre. 
{Pro. Oncoar oon pew ploo deh burr. E7ig. A little more butter.) Un^ 
tasse de cafe. {Pro. Oon tass deh caffay. Eng. A cup of coffee.) Un 
verre d'eau. {Pro. Oon vayr doe. Eng. A glass of water.) Un verre 
d'eau glacee. {Pro. Oon vayr doe glassay. Eng. A glass of ice-water.) 
Des pomme de terre. {Pro. Day pom deh tayr. Eng. Some potatoes.) 
Une bmiteUle de vin rouge. {Pro. Oon bootye deh van ruzjh. Eng. A 
bottle of red wine.) Une demi-bouieUle de vin blanc. {Pro. Oon daymee 
bootye de van blong. Eng. A half-bottle of white wine.) Apportez 
moi un assiette propre. {Pro. Apporteh mwa oon awsyet proapr. Efig. 
Bring me a clean plate.) Un fricassee de poulet. {Pro. Oon frecasay 
deh poolay. Eng. A chicken fricasee.) Deux cotelets de veau. {Pro. 
Deuh cotaylay de vo. Eng. Two veal cutlets.) Du mouton bouUU. 
{Pro. Deuh mootong boolce. Eyig. Some boiled mutton.) Deux oeufs 
frits. {Pro. Deuz ufe freet. Eng. Two fried eggs.) Du poisson^ 
bodiUi. {Pro. Deuh pwassong boolee. Eng. Boiled fish.) Du pain 
au mere. {Pro. Deuh pan o sukr. Eng. Some cake.) Du path d4 



i84 Going to Paris. 

fmUs. {Pro. Denh Pahtay ds frnee. Eng. Some fruit pies.) Du sucre. 
{Pro. Deah Boocr. Eng. Some sugar.) Le sel. (Eng. The salt.) Un 
mUr4 euiOer. {Pro. Oon otre queelay. Eng. Another spoon.) Une 
atsiette^ un ootUeau, unefourchette, et une servieUe. {Pro. Oon awsseyet, 
oon coeto, oon forshet et oon sairveeyet. Eng. A plate, a knife, a fork 
and a napkin.) L* addition, s'il vans plait. {Pro. Laddishong, seel too 
play. Eng. The bill, if you please.) 

Greetings, 

Bon Jour^ Monsieur. {Pro. Bong joor, Mossiew. Eng. Qood-momlng. 
air.) Bon soir. {Pro. Bong swar. Eng. Good evening, when meet- 
ing; and good-night, when separating.) Adieu/ (Pro. Ahdeyou. 
Eng. Gk)od-bye,) Au revoir. {Pro. O rayvwar, Eng. Farewell, but 
to return— literally, good-bye for a little wh'«Ie.) J''ai rhonneur de vous 
saluer. {Pro. Sjay lonner deh voo salooer. Eng. I have the honor to 
salute you.) Perrnittez moi de prendre conge de vous. {Pro. Permeetay 
mwa deh prondr conjay deh voo, Eng. Permit me to take leave of 
you.) Merci. Madam ! {Pro. Mayreee, Mahdam 1 Eng. Thank you, 
Madame!) MiUe remerciements, Mademoiselk. (Pro. Meel raymayr 
Bhemons, Madmwasel. Eng. A thousand thanks, Mies.) Je vous 
remerciti% Monsieur. (Pro. Je voo raymayrci, Mossiew. Eng. I thank 
you, sii.) 

InquirieSf etc, 

Pardm,., Monsieur! (Pro. Pardong, Mossiew, Eng. Beg pardon, sir 
[always to be used in accosting any stranger or making apology for an^i 
contretemps.']) Je vous prie de rnHndiquer cetle addresse, etc {Pro 
8je voo pree deh mandeekay cet address, etc. Eng. I beg you to in 
dicate to me that address, etc.) Pans quelle direction est FEglise de St 
Roch ? (Pro. Dawn kel derecshon ay layglee de San Roash. Eng. lE 
what direction is the church of St. Roch?) Ou est siiuee cette rue} 
(Pro. Oo ay seetuay set roo ? Eng. Where is that street situated ?) 
Qu'elle est cette maison f (Pro. Kel ay set myeson ? Eng. What house 
is that?) Enface est-ce une maison de modes? (Pro. On fass ay se 
oon myeson deh moad ? Eng. Is that the fashion-shop, opposite ?) 
De quel cote la Bourse, a droite ou a gauche.^ (Pro. Deh kel cotay lah 
Boors, ah drwat ou ah goash ? Eng. Which way is the Bourse, to the 
right or the left?) J^ai hesoin d' habits. (Pro. Sjayba-swan dabbee, 
Eng. I desire some clothes [in buying].) Quel en est leprix, etc. (Pro. 
Kel on ay leh pree, etc. Eng. What is the price, etc.) C'est trop cher > 
{Pro. See ay tro share. Eng. That is too dear or high-priced.) 

Finding Interpreter or Guide, 

le desire un interprete. Pro. Sje daseer oon antayrpret. Eng. I wish an 
interpreter.) Je voudrais un garcon pour me montre les places prind- 



Bad Frenclu 185 

pdUt. Pro. Sje voodray oon garsoon poor montr me lay plasB pranee© 
paL Eng. I require a servant to point me out the principal places [of 
Interest.]) Je desire un valet de place gut parte V Anglais. (Pro. Je 
daseer oon vallee deh plass ke pari long-glay. Ung. I wish a valet who 
epeaks English.) T'a-t-il quelqu'un id queparle Analais f Pro. Ee 
ateel kelkoon esee kee pari Ongglay ? Eng. Is there any one here 
who speaks English ? Qui voulez vous qui ni'accompagner adjourd- 
hiUf {Pro. Kee voolay voo kee maccompang adjerdwhee ? Eng. 
What do you ask, to accompany me during this day ?) Qui demandez 
wmSy etc. {Pro. Kee damandah voo, etc. Eng. What do you demand, 
etc.) 

Entering, Finding .fersons, etc, 

Q. (Knocking or at a door.) Puis-je entrer? or, me permittez vonsd'en- 
trer t {Pro. Pweege ontra ? or, me permeetta voo dontra ? Eng. 
May I come in ? or, Will you permit me to enter ?) A. Entrez / or 
Certainement ! {Pro. Ontrayl or, Certanmong. Eng. Come in, or. 
Certainly.) Q, Monsieur H.., est-U a la maison? ot., est-U chez luif 
Pro. Mossiew H., esteel ah la myesong ? or, esteel sha luee ? Eng. 
Mr. H., is he in the house ? or, Is he at home ?) A. Oui., Monsieur^ 
Mons. H. est dans sa dian)bre. {Pro. Wee, Mossiew, Mossiew H. a don 
eah shombr. Eng. Yes, sir, Mr. H. is in his room.) Q. Puis-je U 
voir ? (Pro. Pweege sje leh vwar ? Eng. Can I see him ?) Or, Be- 
mandez Ivi sri peut me recevoir. {Pro. Daymanday luee seel pent me 
rayeayvwar. Eng. Ask him if he is able to see me.) A. Non, Mm- 
eieur, Mons. H. n'est pas a la maison ; or, n'est pas chez lui. {Pro. 
Nong, Mossiew, Mossiew H. neeay pah ah lah myeson ; or, neeay pah 
8ha luee. Eng. No, sir, Mr. H. is not in the house ; or, is not at 
home.) Q. A qu'elle Tieure rentrer a-t-U? Pro. Ah kel oor rontrara- 
teel f Eng. At what hour will he return ? Remettez mon carte a 
Mons. H.y s'U vous plait. {Pro. Rametta mon cart ah Mossiew H., 
seel voo play. Eng. Send my card to Mr. H., if you please.) 

Language, 

parlez vous le Francois ? {Pro. Parlay voo leh Froneay ? Eng. Do you 
speak French?) Parlez vous V Anglais? {Pro. Parlay voo long- 
glay ? Eng. Do you speak English ?) F' a-t-U quelqu'un id qui parU 
r Anglais f {Pro. Eeeateel kelkoon esee kee pari longglay ? Eng. Is 
any one here who speaks English?) M entendez vous ? {Pro. Man- 
tandayvous? Eng. Do you understand me?) Me comprenez vous? 
{Pro. Me compranay voo ? Eng. Do you comprehend me ?) Je vous 
comprends trh-bien. {Pro. Sje voo comprond tray beeon. Eng. I un- 
derstand you, very weU.) Je ne vous comprends pas. {Pro. Sje ne voo 
comprond pah. Eng. I do not understand you.) Qui axrpellez vous, 
4itc. (Piro. CappeUa voo, etc. Eng. What do you call, etc.) B'ipetez, 
s'il vous plait ; or, r^etez, je vous prie. {Pro. Raypaytay, seel voo 



i86 Going to Paris. 

play; or, raypeetay gjc voo pree. Eng. Repeat, if yon please; or, 1 
beg you.) Je parle mal de Franqais : parlez plus doucement, je -vmis 
prie. (Pro. Sje pari mal deh Fron^ay: parlay ploo ducemong, Bje voo 
pree, I^ng. I epeak bad French: speak more plowly, I beg you.) 

In Want. 

/$ mis trh pauvre ! faiies moi du charite., pour V amour de IHeu / (Pro Sja 
ewee tray poavre : fayt mwa duh charitay, poor lamoor deh Deyoo. Eng. 
I am very poor : do me some charity, for the love of God !) Or, Pour 
ramaur de la trh Sainte Yierge. (Pro. Poor lamoor deh lah tray Sant 
Vairj I Eng. For the love of the most Blessed "Virgin.) J' at ires 
/aim/ (JVo. Sjaytrayfam. ^ns?. I am very hungry.) .raitrh/roidf 
{Pr^o. S'jay tray frwa. Eng. I am very cold.) J''aitres soif I (Pro 
Sjay tray swaf. Eng. 1 am very thirsty.) J'n'ai pas d'argent ! Pro. 
Je na pah larghong. Fmg. I have no money.) 

In Sudden SicJcness or Accident. 

J<$ m^^ malade. (Pro. Sje swee mahlad. Eng. I am sick.) Je suis trh 
malade. (Pro. Sje swee tray mahlad. Eng. I am very sick.) J'ai mai 
a la tete. (Pro. Sjay mal ah lah tayt. E7ig. I have sickness in the 
head.) Ma jambe esl cassee. Pro. Ma jhomb a cazzay. Eng. My leg 
[or my a,rm—tnon bras., brah] is broken.) Je vous p7i.l de inefaire con- 
duite immediatement chez un pharmacien. (Pro. Sje voo pree deh me 
fair condwee immeedjatemong shez oon pharmahsheeon. Eng. I beg 
you to have me taken at once to a doctor's-shop.) Conduisez moi im- 
mMiatement chez un dodeur Anglais., Messieurs, je vous pri^. (Pro. 
Condweesa mwa immeedjatemong chez oon docter Ongglay, Mes- 
Biew, sje voo pree. Eng. Take me immediately to an English doctor, 
gentlemen, I beg you.) 

[For reasons that Avill be, as the sensational wri- 
ters say, " obvious to the meanest capacity," no at- 
tempt is made at instructing the untra veiled Ameri- 
can as to any words or formulas of love-making in 
France. Two reasons might be adduced, in case of 
extreme necessity : one, that the writer is totally 
uninstructed on that special subject ; the other, that 
none of his clients are likely to need much instruc- 
tion. At all events, he declines to assume any re 
eponsibility.] 



Probahle Expenses. 187 

XCV 
Probable Expenses of " Going to Paris." 

Necessarily nearly every American traveler, before 
deciding to go to Europe, which in the present con- 
sideration means to go to Paris, forms some calculation 
of the amount of money at disposal for the trip, as wel^ 
as of the length of time that can well be spared for the 
purpose. To many, therefore, any estimate of the 
probable expense will be thought of little use ] but the 
fact is, meanwhile, that very few will be the worse for 
an examination of the figures involved. 

Americans, as a rule, spend so much money m Eu- 
rope, for the time abroad, that they have grown to be 
not a little the terror of Europeans, who think, with 
some reason, that they raise the prices of hotels and 
other accomm.odations upon them. They do not al- 
ways, at the sarne time, enjoy their trips the better for 
lavish outlay, thoughthey necessarily attract more notice 
and secure more consideration of a certain sort. For 
the benefit of those who either have no money to waste, 
or who are too careful to waste it, a few words may be 
in order, with reference to the probable necessary cost 
of the excursion from America to Paris, with the travel 
likely to be involved, and with fewer or more excursions 
outside the absolute range of the visit. 

In round figures, the expense of " going to Pans 
during the season, and return, may be stated as within 
the following bounds : 

Ticket to one of the British ports (Liverpool, Lon- 
don or Glasgow most prominent), or to one of the 



'{88 Going to Paris. 

French ports, and return to New York : highest about 
$200 ; lowest saloon passage, about $100; average, 
$125. To the British port, with course direct to Paris, 
except incidental stoppages, one week in and about 
London and two weeks in and about Paris — three weeks 
on shipboard and three weeks on land, making a total 
absence of about six weeks : may be done, at lowest, 
for about $250 to $300 ; comfortably for $400 ; liber- 
ally for 1 5 00. 

Fifty dollars additional to the other figures may prop- 
erly be calculated upon, for a stop at Queenstown and 
a short run through Ireland, with Cork, Killarney, 
Dublin, Belfast and the Giant's Causeway ; and fifty 
dollars still additional for a crossing from Ireland to 
Scotland, a short run through the Scottish Western 
Highlands, Glasgow, Edinburgh, the Scott and Burns 
neighborhoods, etc., and run by Newcastle and York 
to London. For excursions from Paris, to the French 
cities, the French sides of Switzerland or Germany, or 
over into North Italy, the average calculation may be 
made of spending about %\o per day, including convey- 
ance and subsistence. No large amount of calculation 
will be necessary, with these hints as a basis, for the es- 
timation of what can and cannot be done with a given 
sum at command for the whole. 

Meanwhile, the following figures are supplied, espec- 
ially for this work, by a gentleman of wide travel-expe- 
rience, for what he calls and demonstrates as 



ProlaUe Expenses. 189 

To Paris and Back for $200 ! 

Ticket to London and return, by National or Anchor Boat,$ioo oo 
Passage to Paris, by Newhaven and Dieppe, and return 

by Boulogne 2000 

Board in London, 3 daj^s, fair Hotel 14 00 

Lodgings in Paris, in the "Latin Quarter" (west side of 

the Seine), 20 days, @ 60c 12 00 

Dinners and Breakfasts, at Paris(cheap restaurants), 20 days 20 00 

Fees and Expenses on Shipboard, 2 passages 10 oo 

Admission fees, cabs, and all other expenses 24 00 

$200 00 

[In this estimate it will be noted that lodgings are to- 
be secured in the Latin or student quarter of Paris, on 
the west side of the Seine, where they can be found at 
from 40C. to 60c. per day ; and two meals per day are 
estimated, at a cheap restaurant or "" bouillon," where 
a plentiful breakfast will cost 30c., and a hearty dinner 
about 40c. The other conditions of economy will 
readily suggest themselves.] 



190 Going to Paris. 

XCVI. 

Facts of Interest for Travellers, 

That he Inman Line of New York and Liverpool Steam- 
ships, headed by the " City of Berlin," " City of Rich- 
mond," " City of Montreal," " City of Chester," " City of 
New York," &c., is one of the most reliable crossing the 
Atlantic, the vessels exceptionally large and speedy, and 
the management of the line such as to commend itself to 
the judgment of the best classes of travellers going to Eu- 
rope. The New York office of this Company is now re- 
moved to the splendid offices 31 and 33 Broadway. 

That the National Line, for Liverpool, with a branch di- 
rect to London, holds place as one of the very best engaged 
in the trans-Atlantic trade — The " Spain/' " Egypt," 
*' Ital}'," "Erin," " Queen," "England," etc., being among 
the very largest engaged in ocean traffic, and sup- 
plying safety and comfort in transit, on terms wonderfully 
low for the excellent accommodation. 

That the Gtdon Line, to Liverpool, is every year adding 
new claims on the confidence of the public, through large 
and commodious vessels and mingled courtesy and skill in 
management. The "Montana," of this Line, one of the 
speediest vessels afloat, is well supplemented by the " Ne- 
vada," "Idaho," " Wyoming," and "Wisconsin," soon to 
be followed by yet another and still larger vessel. 

That we have neither need nor wish to name over the 
immense fleet of the North German Lloyd Line of steam- 
ships between New York, Southampton and Bremen. 
Enough to say that they are large, well found, well man- 
aged, and continually growing in public estimation as form- 
ing one of the very best lines between the Old and New 
Worlds. 

That Messrs. Brozun Bros, df Co. Bankers, stand at the 
very head of those houses making exchange between Eu- 
rope and America, and can be fjully depended upon for 



Facts of Interest for Travelers. 191 

every transaction connected with that line of business in 
London, Paris, or elsewhere in Europe ; and that the same 
complimentary words may be said of Messrs. John Miinroe 
^ Co., who transact the same monetary operations between 
the two Continents, with special connection to Paris. 

That the Equitable Life Assurance Society, elsewhere an- 
nounced in this volume, is among the leading and most 
reliable exponents of the science; and that the Travelers' In- 
surance Company, also elsewhere announced, leads the wo'-ld 
in the specialty of Accident Insurance, with that of Life 
also connected. 

That Morford's ''Short Trip Guides" to Europe and Amer- 
ica, with his ''Scenery and Sensation Hand-Book'^ to Cali- 
fornia, make, with this volume, a really wonderful gather- 
ing of information for travelers in all directions, which 
should not be ignored b}^ any who are "moving on. ' 

That Messrs. Geo. H. Adams ^ Son, successors to As her 
^ Adams, 59 Beekman street, New York, supply Maps 
literally laying the whole world before the eye of the trav- 
eler, as well as under his feet, and making the race of men 
happier as well as wiser. Also Guide and State Maps of 
great value. They are exhibitors at the Paris Exposition, 
this year. 

That the Ajidland Grcmd Hotel, St. Pancras, London, near 
the Midland and North Western Railway Stations, is one 
of the best hotels in that metropolis, and one of the 
most convenient in the world, as well as kept by the same 
genial gentleman, Mr. Etzenberger, who manages the popu- 
lar Hotel Victoria, at Venice. 

Th^iiixe Grand Hotel de I' A the nee, B^-Vlq Scribe, Paris, is 
one of the best and most comfortable hotels in that great 
city, where visitors to the Exposition will be sure of find- 
ing most excellent accommodations, with (fox such as 
wish) English spoken, table d'hote, and all modern con- 
veniences, including an elevator. 

That Messrs, Jay, Nos. 243 to 253 Regent street, London, 
have one of the most reliable houses in the English Capi- 



192 Going to Paris. 

tal, with assortment of Silks, Costumes, Hats, Parisian 
Mantles, and Dress Goods, generally deserving and com- 
manding the fullest confidence and the most extensive pa- 
tronage. 

T\i2it Messrs. Hope Bros., TdiWors and general Outfitters, 
Ludgate Hill, High Holborn, Regent Street, and Old Bail- 
ey, London, are thorough experts in their art, guaranteeing 
perfect fits, and with admirable and most extensive assort- 
ments for selection. 

That Messrs. Kimball & Co., Rochester, New York, have 
an unequalled display of Vanity Fair Tobacco, Cigarettes, 
&c., at the Paris Exposition. 

That Campbeh's Presses, with their appendices of exact 
machines connected with the printing busines-, took the 
highest prize at the Philadelphia Centennial Exhibition,, 
and though not on view at Paris, will be and remain 
always "on view" in the minds of the thousands who saw 
them and their excellent work at Philadelphia. 

That Messrs. Cook, Son 6^ Jenkins, Ludgate Circus, 
London, and 261 Broadway, New York, offer their admir- 
able tourist tickets to travelers on either Continent, with 
advantages to which no other house can pretend, in the way 
of cheapening and making easy every line of travel. 

That the Windsor and Brevoort Hotels are two of the 
very best in America, which is equivalent to saying that 
they are among the best in any land. The noble Windsor 
stands at the very apex of Murray Hill, and consequently 
in the most fashionable part of the metropolis ; and the 
Brevoort, a first favorite of many years, is in the immedi- 
ate neighborhood of Washington Square — the locality best 
blending convenience with fashionable elegance. 

That the Home Journal, the fashion and society paper of 
America, [elsewhere announced,] well sustains its high rep- 
utation of many years, and has become a virtual necessity 
in the elite world on both sides of the Atlantic. 



Index. 
INDEX. 



Abbeville, 9 ; (Paris to) 173. 

Aix-le-Bains (Paris to) 166. 

Aix-laChapelle, 26 ; (Paris to) 175. 

Aldershot, 16. 

Alton, 16. 

Alresford, 16. 

Amiens, 9, 25 (Paris to) 173, 174. 

Angers (Paris to) 164. 

Angouleme (Paris to) 164. 

Annecy (Paris to) 166. 

Arras, 25 ; (Paris to) 169, 174. 

Ashford, 10. 

Asnieres, 159. 

Aulnoye, 27. 

Autun (Paris to) 165. 

Avenues, Some of the Great Paris, 53. 

Amberieux (Paris to) 175. 

Baden-Baden, 28 ; (Paris to) 175. 

Bar-le-Duc, 31. 

Bar-sur-Aube, 33. • 

Basle, 32 ; (Paris to) 175. 

Bastille, Place and Column, 150. 

Bayeux, 20 ; (Paris to) 174. 

Bayonne (Paris to) 164. 

Beauvais (Paris to) t66. 

Belfort, 33. 

Bellegarde, 35. 

Bernay, 21. 

Bishopstoke, 17. 

Black Forest, 28. 

Blois (Paris to) 164. 

Boulevards, The, 49 ; Evening on the, 

Bois de Boulogne, The, 115, 

Bourse, The, 144. 



ii Index, 

Bordeaux (Paris to) 164. 

Bouzeville, 19. 

Bourg, 35 ; (Paris to) 175. 

Boulogne-sur Mer, 9, 11, 22 (Paris to) 173, 174. 

Brest (Paris to) 164, 168. 

Brighton, 13. 

Brussels, 23 ; (Paris to) 174, 175. 

Cabs, Carriages, &c., in Paris, 60. 

Caen, 20 ; (Paris to) 174, 

Cafes and Restaurants, 65. 

Calais, 8; (Paris to) 173. 

Cannes (Paris to) 163. 

Canterbury, 5. 

Carlsruhe, 29 ; (Paris to) 175. 

Carrousel, Arch of the, 108. 

Champ deMars, 139, 160, 

Chartres (Paris to) 164. 

Chatham, 5. 

Charleroi, 27 ; (Paris to 175. 

Chalons-sur-Seine (Paris to) 175. 

Chalons-sur-Marne, 31 ; (Paris to) 175. 

Champs Elysees, 113. 

Chambery (Paris to) 166. 

Chateau-Thierry, 31. 

Chamounix, 35. 

Chatelineau, 27. 

Cherbourg, 20 ; (Paris to) 174. 

Chillon, Castle of, 35. 

Chinon (Paris to) 164. 

Churches, Prominent Paris, 153 to 156. 

Clapham Junction, 16. 

Clares, 15. 

Clermont, 9. 

Cologne, 25. 

Columbus, 16. 

Commercy, 31. 

Compeigne, 27 ; (Paris to) 175. , 



Indax* 

Concorde, Place de la, in. 

Conciergerie, The, 134. 

Conflans, 16. 

Conservatoires, Paris, 150. 

Corbeil (Paris to) 167, 

Creil,9, 28 ; (Paris to) 166, 173. 

Creusot(Paris to) 165, 

Croydon, 12, 

Culoz, 35 ; (to Paris) 166, 175. 

Dancing Saloons, Paris, 78 to 80. 

Days and Hours for Visiting, Paris, 90. 

Deauville, 19. 

Deutz, 26. 

Dieppe, 13 ; (Paris to) 173. 

Dijon, 36 ; (Paris to) 165, 175, 

Douai, 24 ; (Paris to) 169, 174. 

Dover, 7. 

Dover and Calais Route, 5. 

Ecole Militaire, The, 141. 

Epernay, 31 ; ''Paris to) 175. 

Erquilines, 27. 

Etretat, 19. 

Etoile, Arc de 1', 108, 109. 

Evreux, 21 ; (Paris to) 194. 

Exposition and Buildings of, 187S, 159. 

Farnham, 16. 

Fecamp, ig. 

Feignies, 24. 

Folkestone, 10. 

Fontainebleau, 36, 159 ; (Paris to) 175. 

Fontevrault (Paris to) 164. 

Geneva, 33 ; (Paris to) 165, 175. 

Ghent (Paris to) 169. 

Gournay (Paris to) 166. 

Great Paris Schools, 149. 

Grenoble (Paris to) 165. 

Grand Opera House, Paris, 73. 



iv Index, 

Halles Centrales, 143. 

Harfleur, 19. 

Havre, 18 ; (Paris to) 173. 

Hayward's Heath, 13. 

Haumont, 27. 

Hippodrome de Longchamp, no 

Honfleur, 19, 21 ; (Paris to) 174. 

Horsham, 21. 

Hotels, Lodging-Houses, &c., Paris, 65. 

Hotel Cluny, 147. 

Hotel Dieu, 158. 

Hotel de Ville, Place de, 157. 

Hotel des Invalides, The, 141 

Houilles, 16. 

Huy, 27. 

Institute of France, The, 158, 

Invalides, Hotel des, 141. 

Isle ofWight, 13, t8. 

Ivetot, 19 ; (Paris to) 173, 

Jardin d'Acclimatation, Paris, 116, 

Jardin des Plantes, Paris, 158, 

Jardin Mabille, The, 78. 

Joigny, 36. 

Kehl, 29. 

Laeken, 24. 

Langres, 33 ; (Paris to) 175. 

LaTrinite, Paris, 156. 

Lausanne, 35. 

Le Mans (Paris to) 164. 

Le Puy (Paris to) 165. 

Lewes, 13. 

Liege, 26 ; (Paris to) 175. 

Lille (Paris to) 169. 

Lisieux, 21. 

Lison, 20. 

Littlehampton, 21. 

Longchamps, 115. . 



Index 

Lougueville, 15. 

Louvre, The, 94. 

Luneville, 31. 

Luxembourg Palace and Gardens, 125. 

Luxor, Obelisk of, iii. 

Lyons (Paris to) 162, 

Macon, 36 ; (Paris to) 175. 

Madeleine, The (Church) 136, 

Maisons, 16. 

Malaunay, 15. 

Malesherbes (Paris to) 167. 

Mantes, 16, 21 ; (Paris to) 173, 174. 

Maromme, 15. 

Marseilles (Paris to) 162. 

Martigny, 35. 

Maubeuge, 24, 27 ; (Paris to) 174. 

Meaux, 31 ; (Paris to) 175. 

Melun, 36 ; (Paris to) r75. 

Metz (Paris to) 172. 

Mint, The Paris, 15S. 

Mt. Cenis Tunnel (Paris to) 166. 

Moneys, French, English and American, 71, 

Mons, 24 ; (Paris to) 174. 

Montereau, 36. 

Monaco and Mentone (Paris to) 163. 

Montmelian (Paris to) 166. 

Montargis (Paris to) 167. 

Monville, 15, 

Morlaix (Paris to) 164. 

Moulins (Paris to) 165. 

Mulhouse, 32 ; (Paris to) 175. 

Namur, 27 ; [Paris to] 175. 

Nancy, 31 ; [Paris to] 175. 

Nantes, [Paris to] 164. 

Napoleon's Tomb, 143. 

New Godalming, 16. 

Newhaven, 13. 



vi Index. 

Nevers, [Paris to] 165. 

Nice [Paris to] 163. 

Niort ]Paris to] 167. 

Northampton, 17. 

Notre Dame, Paris, 131. 

Notre Dame de Lorette, 156. 

Obelisk of Luxor, The, iii, 

Observatory, The Paris, 128. 

Objects of Interest, Remaining, Paris, 156. 

Opera-House, The Grand, Paris, 73. 

Orleans [Paris to] 164. 

Ouch)^ 35. 

Palais Royal, The, 137. 

Palace of Justice, 134. 

Palais des Thermes, 147. 

Pantheon, The, 129. 

Paris, At and About the City of, 37, 

Paris Observatory, 128. 

Paris, to, by Dover and Calais, 5. 

" by Folkestone and Boulogne, 10. 

" by Newhaven and Dieppe, 12. 

" by Southampton and Havre, 16. 

" by Southampton and Cherbourg, 20, 

" by Littlehampton and Honfleur, 21. 

" by Boulogne [Steamer] 22. 

" from Brussels, 22. 

" from Cologne. 25. 

*' from Baden-Baden and Strasbourg, 28. 

" from Basle, 32. 

" from Geneva, 33. 

•* from America, 36. 

Pere la Chaise, 145. 
Places of Amusement, Paris, 72. 
Places and Objects to be Seen, Paris, 81 to 87. 
Place de la Concorde, ill. 
Poissy, 16. 
Poitiers [Paris to] 164. 



Index, 

Polytechnique, Paris, 149. 

'PonX. de Jena, 44, 139. 

Portsmouth, 13,18. 

Postal Service, Paris, 64. 

^uevy, 24, 

Quimper [Paris to] 168. 

Railwa)'s in and Out of Paris, 56. 

Red Hill. 12. 

Rennes [Paris to] 164. ■ 

Restaurants and Cafes, Paris, 65. 

Rives [Paris to] 165, 167. 

Rheims, 31 ; [Paris to] 172, 175. 

Rochefort [Paris to] 167. 

Rochelle Paris to] 167. 

Rochester, 5. 

Rouen, 15, 19 ; [Paris to] 173. 

Sainte Chapelle, The, 134. 

Sandgate, 10. 

Sarrebourg, 31. 

Saverne, 31. 

Saumur [Paris to] 164. 

Schools, The Great Paris, 149 and 150. 

Sedan [Paris to] 172. 

Seine, The, Bridges, Quais and Islands, 42. 

" Boats on the, 45. 

" Washerwomen and Suicides, 47. 

Sens, 36. 
Seven Oaks, 10. 
Sevres, iig. 
Serquigny, 21. 

Sight-Seeing, Successions for, 88, 92. 
Soissons [Paris to] 171. 
Sorbonne, The, Paris, 148. 
Southampton, 17. 
Strasbourg, 29 ; [Paris to] 175. 
Strood, 6. 
St. Adresse, 19. 



viii Lidex, 

St. Aubin, 15. 

St. Augustin, 155. 

Ste. Clothilde, 154. 

St. Cloud, 118. 

St. Cyr [Paris to] 164. 

St. Denis, 157. 

St. Denys, 17. 

St. Etienne du Mont, 154. 

St. Eustache, 155. 

St. Germain I'Auxerrois, 153. 

St. Germain-des-Fosses [Paris to] 165. 

St. Germain-des-Pres, 154. 

St. Germain-en-Laye, 125. 

Ste. Genevieve, 129. 

St. Jean de Maurienne [Paris to] 166. 

St. Michel [Paris to] 166. 

St. Nazaire [Paris to] 164. 

St. Quentin, 27, [Paris to] 175. 

St. Rambert [Paris to] 165. 

St. Roch, 153. 

St. Sulpice, 154. 

St. Thomas d'Aquin, 154. 

St. Vincent de Paul, 155. 

Tamines, 27. 

Tergnier, 27. 

Telegraph Service, Paris, 64. 

Theatre Francais, and Other Theatres, 75. 

Thionville [Paris to] 172. 

Three Bridges, 12. 

Toul, 31. 

Tours [Paris to] 164. 

Tour St. Jacques, 157. 

Toulon [Paris to] 163. 

Tomb of Napoleon, 143. 

Tonnerre, 36. 

Tramways, Paris, 57 

Tribunal of Commerce, Paris, 157. 



Index. 

Trocadero, The, 139, 160. 

Trouville, ig. 

Troyes. 33 ; [Paris to] 175. 

Tuilleries, The, and Gardens, 104. 

Tunbridge Wells, 10. 

Valenciennes, 24 ; [Paris to] 169, 174. 

Valognes, 20. 

Vendomc, Column in the Place, 157 

Vernon, 16. 

Versailles, 120, 

Verviers, 26. 

Veytaux-Chillon, 35. 

Vichy [Paris to] 165. 

Villeneuve, 35. 

Vincennes, 159. 

Vitry-le-Frangois, 31. 

Wirhbledon, 16. 

Winchester, 16. 

Woking, 16. 



^ 



ANNO UN CEMENTS. 



jSstaljIislied. 1850. 




CiTT OF Berlin, City op Richmond, City of Pakis, 

City op Chesteb, City op Brussels, City op New York, 

City op Montreal, City jop Brooklyn. 



NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL, every Thursday or Saturday, 

(From Pier 45, N. R.) 

LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK, every Tuesday or Thursday, 

(Queenstown the day following.) 

Saloons amidships; Staterooms large and well ventilated; and 
every modern eonvenienee. 



$80 and $100 Gold, according to accommodation. Children between z 
and 12, half fare. Servants, $40. Round Trip Tickets, good 
for 12 months, $135 and $160 Gold. To London, $5 Gold, 
additional. To Paris, $15 and $20 Gold, ad- 
ditional, according to route chosen. 

JOHN G. DALE, Agent, 

31 & 33 Broadway, N. F, 

Geo. a. Faulk, 105 South Fourth Street, Philadelphia. L. H. 
Palmer, 3 Old State House, Boston. F. C. Bbown, 32 South Clark 
Street, Chicago. 



ANNO UNGEMENT8, 



NATIONAL LINE 




SAILING WEEKLY BETWEEN, 

NEW YOEK, QUEENSTOWN, ^ LIVEEPOOL, 

AND 

K LONDON, DIRECT. 



NEW YORK 



SPAIN. 

EGYPT. 5089. 

ENGLAND. 4900. 
ThoQUEEN. 4471. 
HELVETIA. 4588. 
ERIN. 4577. 



4871. Tons. CANADA. 

GREECE. 



4276. T«ns. 
4310. 



FRANCE. 3676. 
HOLLAND. 3847. 
DENMARK. 3724. 
ITALY. 4341. 



One of the above MAGNIFICENT STEAMERS will sail 
from New York, Pier 44, North River, EVERY SATURDAY, for 
Queenstown and Liverpool, and EVERY THURSDAY from New FieT 
39, North River, for London direct. (Victoria Docks.) 

The Steamships of this Line are the largest in the Atlantic service^ 
leaving the Port of New York, They are built in water-tight com- 
partments, are spar decked, and combine all the latest modern im- 
provements calculated to add to the Safety, Comfort and Convenience 
of Passengers, heretofore unattained at Sea. 

CABIN PASSAGE 

To Liverpool, Queenstown or London, $50, $60 or $70, according to location of 
Sleeping rooms. All passengers have equal privliges in the Saloon, Return 
Tickets at reduced rates. Steerage Passage, $ 26. Currency. 

" EXCURSION RATES TO THE PARIS EXPOSITION, 1878. " 
For passage &.c, apply at the Companys Offices, 
No. 21 and 23 Water St., Liverpool, and at 

No. 69, TL and 13 Broadway, New York. 

F. W. J. HURST, Manager^ 



ANNO TINGE MEN TS. 



GUION LINE. 

UNITED STATES MAIL STEAMERS FOR 
LIVERPOOJL. 




Sailing from New York, Tuesdays ; 
FROM Liverpool, Saturdays. 

NEVADA, - 3350 TONS 1 WISCONSIN, 3720 TONS 
IDAHO, - - 3356 TONS MONTANA, - 4320 TONS 
IVYOiniNG, 3716 TONS | ARIZONA, - 4500 TONS 

CABIN PASSAGE, TO QUEENSTOWN OR LIVERPOOL. 

(According to Berth location.) 

$65, $75, $80, Currency. Round Trip, $iio 
$130, $140. To London, $5 additional. 
To Paris, Havre, or Ham- 
burg, $15 additional. 
Intermediate, $40. Steerage, $26. 



WILLIAMS & GUION, 29 Broadway. 



SHOE T- TRIP G UIDE. —ANNO UN CEMEN TS 



NORTH GERMAN LLOYD. 



1 









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£ 

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The Screw Steamers of the North German Lloyd: 




BnEIN, 








Habsburg, 




IlIain, 




Hermann, 


Hansa, 


Hohenzolern, 


DONAU, 




Hanover, 


Frank KURT, 


HOHEXSTAUFFER, 


KOLN, 




Stkassburg, 


MOSKU 


Salikr, 




IJeckak, 




Baltimore, 


Bi<:i{UN, 


Braunscuweig, 


Leipzig, 




Ohio, 


Bismarck, 


]S^uknbp:kg, 




AVeskr, 




Amkkica, 


Oder, 


Gkneral Weruek, 



Kroni'rinz Fkiicdkich Wilhelm, 

These Steamers carry the German and United States Mails, and leave 

and leave 
Bremen, for New York, by Southampton, every Saturday. 

" for Baltimore, on alternate V»'ednesdays. 
Southampton, for New York, every Tuesday. 

" for Baltimore, on alternate baiurdaj's. 

New York, for Southampton and Bremen, every Saturday. 
Baltimore, for Southampton and Bremen, every altern:ite Saturday. 

NEW YORK to SOUTHAMPTON, HAVRE, LONDON and BREMEN. 
First Cabin, Adults, $100; Children I to 10, I50; below I year, Free, (Gold.) 
Second " " 60; " " 30; " " " (Gold.) 

New York to Paris, $3.00 Gold, Extra. 
TO ANY OF THE ABOVE PORTS (EXCEPT PARIS,) ANDRETURN, 
First Cabin, Adults, $185; Children I to 10, $92.50 ; below i year, Free, (Gold.) 
Second " " no; " " SS-oo ; " " " (Gold.) 

Servants in Front Cabin pay two-thirds of a passage. One and a half fares 
for exclusive use of Staterooms by one person. 

An experienced surgeon is attached to each vessel. 

All letters must pass through the post office. 

Specie taken to Havre, Southampton and Bremen at the lowest rates. 

For Prices of Passage, and all further particulars, apply to NORTH 
GERMAN LLOYD, Bremen: KELLER, WALLIS & POSTLE- 
TYi'WKYlY.^Southavtpion and London; PHILLIPPS, GRAVES, PHIL-. 
LIPPS & CO., Lofidon; L'HERBETTE, KANE & QO., Havre and 
Paris: OELRICHS &l CO., New York: A. SCHUMACHER & CO.. 
Baltimore: ED. F. STOCKMEYER & CO., Neiv Orleans: H. '^IP 
MAN & CO., Havana. 



ANNO UNCEMENTS. 



BROWN BROTHERS & CO. 

59 Wall Street^ Hew York^ 

Issue, against cash deposited, or satisfactory guarantee of repay- 
ment, Circular Credits for travelers, in Dollars for use in the United 
States and adjacent countries, and in Founds Sterling for use in 
any part of the world. 

These credits bearing the signature of the holder, afford a ready 
means of identification, and the amounts for which they are issued 
can be availed of from time to time, and wherever he may be, in 
sums to meet the requirements of the traveler. 

Applications for credits may be made to the above house direct, 
or through any first-class bank or banker in this country. 



They also issue Commercial Credits, make Cable Transfers of 
Money between this country and England, and draw Bills of Ex- 
change on Great Britain and Ireland. 

BROWN, SHIPLEY dt CO., BROWN, SHIPLEY & CO., 

Founder'' s Court, Lothbury. London. Ghapel Street, Liverpool 

Special Correspondents in San Fi'ancisco, Parrot & Co. ; and 
Bank of California. 

JOHN MUNROE & COMPANY, 

BANKERS, 

No. 8 Wall Blreet, New Yorlc, and 
No. 4 Post Office Square, Boston, 

ISSUE 

CiKCULAE Notes and Circulak Lettees 
OF Ceedit foe Teavelees, 

on the 
CONSOLIDATED BANK, LONDON, 

AND ON 

MUNROE & COMPANY, 
paeis. 

exchange on LONDON AND PAEIS,' 
Money TrayisJ erred, and Credits Opened by Cable, 



ANNO UNGEMENTS, 



EQUITABLE 

Life Assurance Society, 

No. 120 BROADWAY, 

NEW YORK CITY. 



CAPITAL, $35,000,000. 

SURPLUS, ------ $6,500,000. 



HENRY B. HYDE, President. 
JAMES W. ALEXANDER, Vice President. 

SAMUEL BORROWE, Sec\. GEO. W. PHILLIPS, Actuary. 



ANNO UNOEMENTS. 



HOTEL DE L'ATHENEE, 



No 75 RUE SCRIBE, 

PARIS, FRANCE. 



Favorite Home of Americans in Paris. 



FIRST-CLASS RESTAURANT, 



MEALS IN ROOMS WITHOUT EXTRA CHARGE. 



PUBLIC PARLOR. BILLIARD, READING AND 
SMOKING ROOMS, 

AMD 

PATENT LIFT TO UPPER ROOMS. 



CHAR >ES REASONABLE FOR ELEGANT ACCOMMO. 
DATION. 



ANNO UNCEMENTS. 



GEO. H ADAMS & SON, 

SUCCESSORS TO 

ASHER & ADAMS, 

Map and Book Publishers, 

59 BEEKMAN ST., New York. 



Hap, Atlas, Cfasetteer and Guide 

PUBLISHING A SPECIALTY. 



Maps Compiled, Drawn, Engraved, 

—AND— 

PBINTED AT SHOET HOTIOE. 

Pocket Maps of all tlie States always corrected to Date, 



EXHIBITORS at the PAEIS EXPOSITION. 



ANNO UN CEMENTS. 



AN AMERIC AN EXHI BIT AT PARIS 

Unsurpassed for Purity? Delicacy & Excellence. 

FOR 

MEERSCHAUM AND CIGARETTES ^ 

DOES NOT BITE THE TONGUE. 



"Vanity Faix^ Ciga]?ettes 

Of delicious Tobacco and best French Rice Paper. 

VANITY FAIR HALVES 

Tart PEEIQTTE. Beet French Eice Paper. 

V^. S. KIMBALL & CO., 

l»cerless Tobacco ^Vorks, Kocliester, N. Y. 

g(5er(efy ^ ^ei\Ation !lki\d Sock 

—TO THE — 

PACIFIC mmm im zmmm. 



Clotla, $1.00. Paper, $0.75. 
CHAS. T. DILLINGHAM, Publisher 

LEE & SHEPARD, Boston. 

A. L BANCROFT & CO., San Francisco. 

JANSEN McOLURG, Chicago. 



'' The Best California Book yet Published." 
UNIVERSAL, VERDICT. 



ANNO UNGEMENT8. 



A, CAlWiPBEIili, President. 

A. F. BROWN, JNO. R. CAMPBELL, J, L. BROWER, 

Treasurer. Secretary. Asst. Sec'y, 

Campbell Prlnting Press 

AND 

MANUFACTURING COMPANY. 



OFFICE, 

No, 39 Beeknian Srteet^ New York. 

FACTORY, 

Wythe Avenue, Hewes and Penn Streets^ 
Brooklyn, K Z>., N. Y. 



MANUFACTURERS OF 

Eotary Perfecting Printing ^ Folding Machines, 

ALSO, 

CYLINDER PRESSES, 

FOR 

Book, newspaper Job, Color, and Wood-Cut Printing. 



The Campbe'l Presses are Endorsed by the Leading 
Printers and Publishers in the United States. 



Highest Award at the Philadelphia Centennia-i, 



SEND FOR ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



ANNO UN CEMENT 8, 




Editorial and Business Office, 52 Broadw^ay, N. Y» 



MORFORD'S 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE 

TO 

EUROPE. 

Most perfect Guide for Americans in the Old World. Neat^ 

compact, of the right size for the pocket. 

Everything fresh and new. 

Handsome 16mo, flexible covers, with map. Price $1.50. 

Chaeles T. Dillingham, Publisher, 

678 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 

MORFORB'S 

PRACTICAL GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY 
AND BROOKLYN 



Handsome 16mo., in paper, with a volume of information rom- 
jjressed in sixty pages, and destined to be one of the features of the 
time. Price 10 cents. 

Charles T. Dillits^gham, Publishery 

678 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 



ANNO UNCEMENTS. 



TOURIST OFFICE, 

Ho. 261 Broadway, New York City. 

Excursion Tickets for all Routes in America, (including Califor, 
NiA, with Salt Lake City, Yosemite Valley, the Geysers, &c. ; and 
Routes to Southern Kansas, the Valley of the Arkansas, Colorado 
Springs, Denver, c&c, for themselves, or on the tcay to California, via 
Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad, not otherwise attainable 
or for sale t^ any Eastern Company. Also, 

TO 

ALL POINTS OF INTEREST IN THE WEST AND SOUTH, 
THE WHITE MOUNTAINS, 

AND 

ALL POINTS OF INTEREST IN THE EAST AND NORTH, 

AT 

Rates below those Otherwise Attainable, 

AND WITH 

Combinations and Privileges Peculiar to their Arrangements^ 



TICKETS TO AND THROUGH EUROPE AND THE EAST, 
WITH OCEAN-CROSSING BY ALL LINES OF 
STEAMERS, AND AT MARKED REDUC- 
TIONS FROM ORDINARY 
RATES. 



" Cook's Excursionist," published monthly, price 10 cents, with 
nearly one thousand specimen Tours and Combinations. 



Branch Oflaces : Boston, 197 Washington St. ; Puiladelphia, 1,251 
Chestnut St. ; Washington, 820 F St. ; San Francisco, 3 New Mont- 
gomery St. ; New Orleans, 35 Carondelet St. 



ANNO UNCEMENTS. 



THE 

FOR 

READY MONEl?, 

HOPE BROTHERS, 

AND 

GENERAL OUTFITTERS, 

44 & 46, Ludgate Hill & 1, Old Bailey ; 

282, HIGH HOLBOEN AND 88, EEGMT STREET. W., 

LONDON. 



Travellers requiring any articles of Gentlemen's Dress will find at 
these Establishments large and well-selected Stock to select from, at 
moderate prices. 

In the Tailoring and Shirt Making Departments the best cutters 
and workmen only are employed. A good fit is guaranteed, and any 
article not approved of may be exchanged or the money returned. 



All &oocls are marked in plain figures, for Cash only. 



A NNO try CE MEN TS. 



1846. THIRTY-THIRD YEAR. 1878. 

THE 

HOME JOURNAL, 

ENLARGED AND IMPROVED. 



"The Best Literary and Society Paper in 
America." 

Its leading departments comprise Editorials on topics of fresh interest ; 
Brilliant Romances, and Portraitures of American Life ; Editorial Re- 
views of new events in the world of Belles-Lettres, Painting, Sculpture, 
Science, Music, and the Drama ; Original Essays ; Ample Excerpts from 
the best F - . . - 

the great 



the best European Writers • Spicy Letters from Correspondents in all 
t Capitals of the World ; Copious Extracts from New Books ; 



and racy accounts of sayings, happenings and doings in the Beau 
Monde ; embracing the very freshest matters of interest in this country 
and in Europe— the whole completely mirroring the wit and wisdom, the 
Jiumor and pathos, the news and sparkling gossip of the times. 

SUBSCRIPTION. 

Subscribtn will receive back numbers when desired. 

FREE OF POSTAGE. 

The Home Journal alone, one copy, one year Ij-o® 

I copies, one year 6.«o 

6 " '• " 9.o« 

TERMS FOR CLUBS: 

The Home Journal and any $4 periodical (either Harper's Mazarine, 
Harper's Weekly, Harper's Bazar, Atlantic Monthly, Scnbner's 
Monthly, The Galaxy, Lippincott's Magazine, Appleton's Journal, 
Frank Leslie's Ladies*^ Journal, Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper, 
Blackwood's Magazine, Westminster Review, or any of the English 
Quarterlies republished here) will be sent for $s.a5, the full price being 
#7. St. Nicholas for $4.50 \ full rates, |6.oo. Littell's Living Age for 
$S.75 ; full price, $11. 

Subscriptions will take date immediately, or at any time subscribecs 
prefer. Address the proprietors and publishers, 

MORRIS PHILLIPS A CO., 

Na. 3 Park Place, Niw YtrL 



